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Author Topic: Exploded View Drawing of NC-183D bandspread tuning shaft  (Read 3993 times)
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W3BH
Jim
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« on: January 02, 2011, 11:26:02 AM »

Would anyone have an 'exploded view drawing' of the bandspread shaft on the NC-183D detailing the washers, disks and spacers and the order in which they appear on the shaft? I have an NC-183R to refer to, but the system is different than on the D. The parts were picked out from the bottom of the chassis so I'm not even sure I have all the pieces.

There is nothing in the doc I have so far collected on the D to help. It appears straight forward, but I'd like to get it right the first time because of the confined space and my meaty fingers. I'd give a million to have a bird's eye view of the technique the National assembly line people used to install this. There are two images attached for reference.

Many thanks - Jim (W3BH)
 


* 183D2.jpg (40.7 KB, 800x293 - viewed 358 times.)

* 183D1.jpg (52.27 KB, 666x776 - viewed 367 times.)
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w3jn
Johnny Novice
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« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2011, 12:50:31 PM »

Jim, welcome to AMFone.net!  Looks like you have them more or less in the necessary order.  I took the attached pics of my NBS-1 which is a 183 made for the National Bureau of Standards and has an extra IF stage, and 3 selectivity positions in addition to the xtal filter.

I can't see what's between the brass spacer just inside the aluminum bracket and the two brass halves of the pincher that drives the tuning disk though.

Looks like, from the end of the shaft, the two nuts, a split lockwasher, one of the brass bushings, the star lockwasher, the flywheel, ppossibly the second brass bushing, one of the silver disks, the two halves of the pincher, and the other silver disk.  The position of the second brass bushing is the big question here - I'd assemble the shaft outside of the radio and compare how the pinchers need to line up with the tuning dial disk.  Could be the bushing goes all the way forward...



* nc183.jpg (1311.23 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 390 times.)

* nc183-1.jpg (1354.58 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 359 times.)
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W3BH
Jim
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« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2011, 01:10:18 PM »

Thanks John,

That's pretty much what I see on the main tuning shaft. I could disassemble the main shaft to see how it goes, but I don't think I could put Humpty together again after everything fell off and cratered into the dark recesses of the beast -  I'm not sure the main shaft is set up the same as the bandspread shaft. Like you, I find it hard to see anything on the faceplate side of the round weight. I can see the brass friction plates but there is no sign of the two smaller plates.  I'm probably close enough to try and assemble it and see what happens. Just getting everything lined up on the shaft and squeezed in between the bracket arms is threatening enough. Perhaps I'll try and use some very light adhesive to sandwich them all together first. Maybe the entire bracket was pre-assembled before it was installed.. This is almost as bad as trying to solder and un-solder components in a KWM-2A... I'm too old to keep turning over the 183 on the bench to try and coax small parts out that have come loose inside. Hi. The board should have a thread for the 10 most difficult and frustrating boatanchor procedures.  I'll vote for this one.

Thanks for images - back to the bench.

Jim
 
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w3jn
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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2011, 01:20:34 PM »

Use some thick grease (sparingly) to stick stuff together.  You don't wanna get it on the friction surfaces of the pinchers though.

Easy does it.  Push the tuning shaft in a bit, then start adding parts in order as you push it thru.  A pair of long hemostats works well to get into tight spaces.

Good luck (and better you than me  Grin)
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W3BH
Jim
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2011, 11:25:12 AM »

John, your suggestions helped very much to solve this problem.

Quote
Use some thick grease (sparingly) to stick stuff together.  You don't wanna get it on the friction surfaces of the pinchers though.

Easy does it.  Push the tuning shaft in a bit, then start adding parts in order as you push it thru.  A pair of long hemostats works well to get into tight spaces.

I've posted some images of the process here for others to note:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kjsorenson/NC183DBandspreadAssembly?feat=directlink#

My dial moves smoothly and there are no left over parts - for once...

Only use grease for the lock washer and use the hemostats for everything else that must be placed on the shaft.

Many thanks,

Jim (W3BH)
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w3jn
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2011, 02:23:28 PM »

Outstanding, Jim, congrats!

Now you need to rebuild an old transmitter for the FULL AM phun experience  Grin
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W3BH
Jim
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« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2011, 04:04:06 PM »

John,

I have a Viking II on the bench as well. It's in pretty good shape and won't need much to put it on the air. I did the smoke test a couple of years ago and it passed. Problem is I traded the matching VFO for something and will have to replace it, be rock bound or build VFO for it. Think I'll build.

However, anybody out there have a Viking 122 VFO for sale?

I also have a R-390A in very good condition. I'm working on that as well.

Thanks for your help and hope someday my 183D bandspread installation job might be of use to someone.

Jim (W3BH)


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