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Author Topic: R390A FRONT PANEL REMOVAL OR OTHERWSIE KNOW AS HELP  (Read 7384 times)
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W2PFY
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« on: November 08, 2010, 07:35:46 PM »

I need to take the front panel off my 390A to put in one screw that clamps one of the gears in place. There is no way I can do it without some dissemble. I have been looking for hours and I guess I haven't hit the right Google wording to find it.

It looks like a nightmare in the making but it may be simpler than I think.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2010, 08:04:32 PM »

Hi,

 Its not too bad,


  Unplug RX from wall

  Set RX on the edge of the bench with FP hanging over the edge.

  Remove KC, MC, Bandwidth , BFO and ANT TRIM Knobs.

  Remove 4 screws from each edge of the FP  (8 total)

  Remove 5 smaller phillips screws 3 below the BW and BFO shafts
  and the 2 above the local gain knob.

  You should now be able to ease the FP off the shafts
  and let it swing down.

 I hope I didnt forget anything but it "Should" be easy.
 

  GL

/Dan
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W2PFY
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« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2010, 08:11:20 PM »

Ok, thanks, here i go Tongue Tongue Tongue Tongue
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WV Hoopie
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« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2010, 08:14:56 PM »

Google Y2K Manual. It is now on revision #3. Gud stuff in there all about the R-390A

wd8kdg
Craig,
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2010, 08:23:48 PM »



 BTW


   Just a Hint for re-assembly, Loosen the bushing
for the PTO shaft. After you get the panel back on
put in all the screws and tighten that bushing last.

/Dan
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W2PFY
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« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2010, 08:25:52 PM »

what type of tool is need to pull the large knob off, I mean to loosen the screws? are  they hex or somethings else?
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2010, 08:30:25 PM »


  T8 or T9 Torx  (aka Bristol)

what type of tool is need to pull the large know off, I mean to loosen the screws? are  they hex or somethings else?

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W2PFY
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« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2010, 08:35:56 PM »

Thanks, I have the tools, didn't want to strip something Cry Cry
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2010, 08:42:41 PM »

Thanks, I have the tools, didn't want to strip something Cry Cry

  HI Hi,

   I hope there not already....  That will ruin your day.

/Dan
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« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2010, 09:03:37 PM »

It need a new micro sw for the off/on but naturally, I'm not organized enough to have one. Maybe I can fix it somehow if it shows its ugly head when I finish pulling the FFP off.
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2010, 09:17:24 PM »

Google Y2K Manual. It is now on revision #3. Gud stuff in there all about the R-390A

wd8kdg
Craig,

Its here : http://www.r-390a.net/Y2K-R3/index.htm
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« Reply #11 on: November 08, 2010, 09:32:22 PM »

Got all the knobs & screws out but for some reason, it seems to be hanging up in the bottom middle? Nothing seems to be holding it but I can't pull it off. Could it be those wiring harness screws that go into the clamps behind the FP?
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2010, 09:44:47 PM »


  Sure could be,  One small screw by the RF gain and one by the
Phones jack, Can you get it to the ends of the shafts? Maybe
a burr there.


Got all the knobs & screws out but for some reason, it seems to be hanging up in the bottom middle? Nothing seems to be holding it but I can't pull it off. Could it be those wiring harness screws that go into the clamps behind the FP?

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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2010, 09:48:37 PM »


  I guess I forgot to mention to loosen the "Zero Adjust" bushing
so you can rotate that outta the way of the locking disk.  It grips
that disk like a car brake caliper so you can calibrate it. Just loosen
the nut and you can rotate it off the disk.

Sorry

/Dan


  Sure could be,  One small screw by the RF gain and one by the
Phones jack, Can you get it to the ends of the shafts? Maybe
a burr there.


Got all the knobs & screws out but for some reason, it seems to be hanging up in the bottom middle? Nothing seems to be holding it but I can't pull it off. Could it be those wiring harness screws that go into the clamps behind the FP?

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W2PFY
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« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2010, 09:54:11 PM »

It was the dial lock, I loosened it and turned it away from the drum and now I took the left side panel off and I can finally get to the screw clamp. Thanks, You made this an easy job  Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin plus two more Grin Grin
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N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2010, 09:59:30 PM »


Nice,

   Clean up all those switches, lube it up good, and you should be
all set for another couple decades..

73
/Dan




It was the dial lock, I loosened it and turned it away from the drum and now I took the left side panel off and I can finally get to the screw clamp. Thanks, You made this an easy job  Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin plus two more Grin Grin
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WV Hoopie
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« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2010, 12:08:34 AM »

Gonna need a #8 Bristol spline wrench to play games with these 85 lb receivers, they are NOT torx! Only one size needed.

wd8kdg
Craig
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« Reply #17 on: November 09, 2010, 12:34:15 AM »

Quote
Gonna need a #8 Bristol spline wrench

Gee I used the torx # 9 and had no problems. when I look at them very close it looks like the torx and the head of the screw match perfectly.

So anyhow, I looked it up and I can see the difference. The head  is so small on  one screw from my 390, that I'll look at tomorrow when I get my spy glass out to see how it matches up with the examples listed in the link below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
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