Contact Enhancer? Stabilant 22A

[W1UJR]

Thought I'd ask you fellows before I ordered up an expensive container of this stuff.

We've having communication problems on some of the Mercedes and Volvos CAN Bus lines that create sporadic and random fault codes.
In our tech groups many have recommended a product called "Stabilant 22A" as the magic bullet for improving connections. These problems often occurring at the multi-pin connectors on engine control units, SRS (Airbag) connections, etc. Some of the manufacturers, like Mercedes, have TSBs out instructing you to remove the plug in connector and solder the wires together. Fine on a 2 wire airbag connector, but nothing doing on a plug in connector on a control unit.

One car in particular, a Volvo XC70, has had numerous control units on the data bus replaced before it was referred over to our workshop. I'd sure like to avoid unnecessary replacement of any expensive control units, so interested in your feedback on Stabliant 22A vs. good old DeOxit.

[Roy K8VWX]

         I have used the 22A for the past 10 years or so with mixed results. It seems to help on low current small voltage applications but I find myself reaching for the Deoxit most of the time. Is it worth the rather high cost???. In some cases perhaps but like most advertisement crap it doesn't seem to live up to all it is claimed to do.(at least not for me) 73 / k8vwx

[KC4VWU]

Well, I guess the important question would be whether it would be warranty or customer pay.

I've seen some really crazy stuff in my past experiences as a mechanic, and I know firsthand that when you're against the clock on an electrical system problem (note nowadays... complex electronic system), things can get really frustrating, really fast. You don't eat unless the work goes out the door, period.

So what is the stuff? Is it something that neutralizes oxidation?

I remember that we had problems with the Wrangler TJ bodies because they designed them with a more traditional auto style dash layout and people would leave them out in bad weather with the tops off just like they were accustomed to with the older models. After a couple years went by, we started seeing a lot of them come in with the instrument clusters going wacko. Chrysler supplied a TSB for removing the cluster and cleaning the connectors with a contact cleaner, then applying a silicone gel to inhibit moisture and oxidation from getting back in. I also remember a service pack for the connectors on the wiring side and soldering in several to fix the ones that returned when the "quickie fix" didn't last for long.

As a mechanic, I vividly remember times when the hours were low, sucky, barely paying warranty work abounded and a warranty electrical problem would catch me saying out loud, " I just wish this thing would go away!" Sadly, they usually didn't, and guaranteed any fix that will get them out the door in short order usually won't fix the real problem, or will not last very long if it did.

If it is really a wiring issue, I'm going to suggest a dirty word that won't make you a celebrity among your employees... Harness.

I'm not saying the chemical will not work, I've never heard of it. I just remember climbing on the Snap-On truck every week asking the dealer if he had gotten any magic wands in stock yet.

Just my two cents worth. Let me know what you find out.

73, Phil


   

[Bill, KD0HG]

I've been a big fan of Stabilant 22 for many years.

It really does work, especially on boatanchor restoration and computers with some caveats.

It is some sort of polymer oil dissolved in alcohol as a carrier. Extremely thin
films of it are electrically conductive. It doesn't remove oxides like DeOxit might, it makes the underlying electrical connection solid. It works in a different manner by sealing oxygen out of a metal to metal interface, by lubrication (it's slimy stuff) and by reducing metal connections to near zero ohms.

I have found it extremely useful for automotive connectors to sensors, ECUs and the like where vibration and bad sealing eventually causes connections to get flaky. It will not help much on extremely corroded connections which need to be manually cleaned first. It works extremely well on things like worn and noisy rotary switches like those in an R-390 or S-Line. And edge connectors in computers. Tube sockets and carbon volume control pots. It does not help on switch contacts carrying large currents as the small arcs that occur when switching fry it off.

Yes, it is pricey, but only extremely tiny amounts need to be applied. I typically use 1 cc insulin syringes to apply it. My last bottle has lasted me some 7 years. Applications seem to last a few years.

It works differently than Deoxit, it's another useful tool in the arsenal against intermittents. I would certainly give it a try.

[KM1H]

As much as I dislike DeOxit it in tube electronics Ive had excellent results in 6 and 12V auto circuits which includes relay happy and other plug in items Volvos. Its the only stuff that cured corrosion intermittents in late 50's and 60's Ford and T-Bird retractables mass of relays.

Carl

[N8ETQ]

Hello,

 I have used Deoxit D5 for a while and it works well but is Crazy expensive,
unavailable locally and can't be shipped by Air. I was in an "Auto Zone" or
an "Advanced Auto Parts" store a while ago and got a can of:

"Stoner Electrical Cleaner & Lubricant"

  Big 16oz can at about $9. It also has a lubricant and works fine.

/Dan

[W1UJR]

Thanks for the feedback fellows, and yes, there are low voltage - less than 5 volts, low current signals.

Thankfully this is all customer pay, not warranty times, and often the car lands on our doorstep after having had parts thrown at it in another shop, so the customer realizes they need to pay for professional diag time and service.

Volvo wants you to replace the female connectors, just try that on a 45 pin connector, and M/B has these funky $6 solder connectors for the airbag system you install with heat gun. For the Benz I am going with the connectors, too much liability and I can point back to the TSB, but I think I'm going to try the 22A on the Volvo data bus. Can't hurt. You don't see real corrosion, just what looks like a like gray tarnish, but apparently it is enough to cause contact issues on the data bus, esp. when cold.

Had another car in today, Volvo S60, with a DAS (Drive Authorization System) fault, take fully 8 seconds to recognize the key and activate the starter relay.

I'll report back!

I know there is no magic bullet, but this might be another tool in our arsenal.

By the way, those of you who are mechanically inclined might enjoy this part of our website -->>
http://atlanticmotorcar.com/ams_photobook.htm and http://atlanticmotorcar.com/service_solutions.htm

[KA0HCP]

Sharp looking facility!!   I can't believe the effort you have put into the website.  Most excellent.

b

[WA1GFZ]

Glad the fly by wire systems we put in aircraft don't have these failures.
Imagine the possible ways you can get killed when your FBW steering dies at 70 MPH.
I wonder if the no-ox stuff used in breaker panels is worth trying. It is cheap.