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Author Topic: Update on the GS-35 Linear Project  (Read 5397 times)
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W1IA
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« on: October 07, 2010, 04:53:51 PM »

http://home.comcast.net/~w1ia/new_page_8.htm

The the bottom of the page is the fabricated 1/2 inch plate holding the vacuum caps; now we can do the layout on the front panel. Mark (KA2QFX) and I needed the caps mounted to finish mechanical drawings for the front panel.  

Brent W1IA

added the pics for opcoms post


* Amp 337.jpg (273.12 KB, 1200x900 - viewed 665 times.)

* Amp 336.jpg (277.01 KB, 1200x900 - viewed 693 times.)
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2010, 05:12:40 PM »

I hope the loading cap is on the bottom and I bet you have about two turns too many on the ten meter section of the coil.
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W1IA
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« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2010, 05:23:27 PM »

Yes the loading is on the bottom, and we spread the coil to get the inductance we needed for 10...that coil also tapped for 15 Frank.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2010, 09:03:19 PM »

Looking at all the possible strays that coil should work on 15.
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Opcom
Patrick J. / KD5OEI
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« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2010, 09:30:20 PM »

Is that bandswitch & coil really big enough for two of them tubes?
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W1IA
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« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2010, 09:50:22 PM »

Is that bandswitch & coil really big enough for two of them tubes?
Since the web is being updated, I included the pics of the band-switch on the first post. Its a completely modified B&W adding another contact for 160 and a gear driven sub-switch for driving the input circuit board;also for switching a vac relay adding the doorknob cap for 160 meter loading. The circulating currents average about 11-14 amps; approximately 8450 PEP of  rf voltage.  Mark designed an Excel spread sheet calculating the L and C of the tank based on plate voltage, Q etc. Mark has made this available to anyone building an amp. It is very accurate. So far the tap points coincide with the spread sheet near perfectly. The spacing and location between the vac caps was based on the voltage, currents and layout efficiency.

Brent
W1IA
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2010, 03:35:45 PM »

Brent,
Mounting the 10 /15 meter coil directly against the ceramic is going to be a porblem. I would run a screw through the hole with the head facing the main coil with soft washers on both sides. Then a nut not too tight then the coil and connection to the switch contact Use soft strap. Then another nut with lock washer. This way you can make the last nut tight against the first nut without putting a lot of stress on the ceramic. The screw just floats in the hole.
Chuck will tell what that switch will really do.
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