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Author Topic: Restuffing HRO paper caps  (Read 4420 times)
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stevef
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« on: May 22, 2010, 08:53:51 AM »

Have a very nice HRO-W here and would like to restuff the paper caps to preserve appearance.  The paper caps (not waxed) are inside a clear plastic sleeve that appears partially shrunk on the ends keeping the cap secure inside.  Anyone have a technique for restuffing these and preserving appearance?

Steve, KK7UV
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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2010, 07:40:10 PM »

I have never tried restuffing those.  I have restuffed waxed ones.

You might try trimming the shrunken plastic ends, then cleaning out all the stuff inside, inserting the new cap and sealing the ends.  Some people claim success using hot glue. You may not even have to trim the ends of the plastic.  I forget offhand what the ends of the originals are sealed with.

You don't have to fill the inside solid.  Just enough to cover the ends.

Often the new caps have a much smaller and sometimes shorter diameter wire leads than the original.  In that case, I use new or recycled tinned copper stock of approximately the same diameter as the original, or the original if it is still usable, wrap the new component leads round the end and solder, then fill the ends.

A 1930's HRO is something for which I would go to the trouble to restuff the capacitors.  With my 75A-4 I didn't see the point, just wired in the new caps (orange drops IIRC).

I wonder if anyone has figured out any way to reproduce the old dot-tip-body carbon resistors with the radial leads wrapped round the ends of the resistor body, using modern film type  resistors "dressed up".
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Don, K4KYV                                       AMI#5
Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM...    Never got off AM in the first place.

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KA2DZT
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« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2010, 04:50:24 AM »

Have a very nice HRO-W here and would like to restuff the paper caps to preserve appearance.  The paper caps (not waxed) are inside a clear plastic sleeve that appears partially shrunk on the ends keeping the cap secure inside.  Anyone have a technique for restuffing these and preserving appearance?

Steve, KK7UV
I have never tried restuffing those.  I have restuffed waxed ones.

You might try trimming the shrunken plastic ends, then cleaning out all the stuff inside, inserting the new cap and sealing the ends.  Some people claim success using hot glue. You may not even have to trim the ends of the plastic.  I forget offhand what the ends of the originals are sealed with.

You don't have to fill the inside solid.  Just enough to cover the ends.

Often the new caps have a much smaller and sometimes shorter diameter wire leads than the original.  In that case, I use new or recycled tinned copper stock of approximately the same diameter as the original, or the original if it is still usable, wrap the new component leads round the end and solder, then fill the ends.

A 1930's HRO is something for which I would go to the trouble to restuff the capacitors.  With my 75A-4 I didn't see the point, just wired in the new caps (orange drops IIRC).

I wonder if anyone has figured out any way to reproduce the old dot-tip-body carbon resistors with the radial leads wrapped round the ends of the resistor body, using modern film type  resistors "dressed up".

You guys have too much time on your hands Grin

I have a HRO-M rack mount with 9 coil sets and two rack mounted coil housings.  I use the receiver on 75M.  Someone before me replaced the caps with green ones (maybe Sangamo).  I've made other changes and improvements to the receiver.

I like the HRO more than my NC-183D

Fred KA2DZT
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KM1H
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2010, 09:07:17 AM »

Do you have a cap photo? Those dont sound original. Ive restuffed the regular paper and wax plus various molded plastic.

Ive recycled the old dogbone resistors by repainting with the nearest 10% rating, a 30K may now be marked as 50K, etc. I have several boxes full of them including some NOS. After 70+ years they have pretty much stopped drifting. Ive heard of others baking them to drive out the moisture and then sealing in acrylic clear.

The hardest to replicate are the original National built or IRC, remarking works but with limited spares available it becomes time to get creative. Thankfully Ive only had to do that to a FB-XA and a D series HRO.

Carl
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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2010, 02:14:00 PM »


You guys have too much time on your hands Grin

It depends. My main station receiver is primarily functional for my station, even though the collectors consider it a museum piece.

But I like restoring certain types of antique and vintage equipment so that it looks original. I get a let-down feeling when I run across a carefully restored 1920's or early 30's piece, and then open the cabinet or turn the chassis upside down and find it full of orange drops and film resistors. It's like finding a fine vintage automobile from the same era, but opening the hood and finding that the entire power train has been replaced with something modern.

Some things, like the R-390 and 75A-4 are mostly functional, preserved because of their quality of design and construction.  I won't drill holes in the cabinet or make irreversible changes, but I care little about using only "period" components in a repair or upgrade.

The  early HRO is more like a living museum piece.  I may make some changes to improve performance, but I like to keep the components period.

But then, take  something like a 1930 SW-3, piano-lid Atwater Kent or 1928 self-excited 210 transmitter.  I prefer to restore those back as close to the original as possible.

Something I fail to understand is the commonly heard refusal to upgrade the performance of a not-so-antique piece like a Viking II, DX-100 or T-368, but to retain space-shuttle audio or a drifty VFO with FM because the owner wants to keep the circuit "original" while using orange-drops and film resistors to get it working.

It's a hobby, with many facets of interest. If the only goal and objective was to "talk over the air", we would all be running space-shuttle quality slopbucket with plastic radios.  
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Don, K4KYV                                       AMI#5
Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM...    Never got off AM in the first place.

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This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout.
http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak
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Making AM GREAT Again!


« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2010, 02:55:51 PM »

Don

Jap radios have their place...  They make GREAT stable VFO's.

(removing tongue from cheek now)


--Shane
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stevef
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« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2010, 06:55:49 PM »

Do you have a cap photo? Those dont sound original.
Carl
KM1H

They sure LOOK original inasmuchas the soldering does not appear to have ever been tampered with.   These are Sprague caps with a silvery-paper label, and a slightly-yellowed plastic sleeve and the ends sort of crimped in (heat-shrunk?).  This HRO dates from 1945.


* HROcaps.JPG (32.45 KB, 389x292 - viewed 396 times.)
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2010, 08:44:18 PM »

might be tropicalized originals
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KM1H
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2010, 10:29:10 AM »

I have never seen those before in a HRO and that chassis sure doesnt look tropicalized. Anything was possible from National if a customer ordered and had the money.

Id go ahead and restuff, that chassis sure looks nice. You have any other shots?

Carl
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