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Author Topic: Metal Cutting  (Read 13218 times)
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #25 on: October 21, 2009, 09:15:30 PM »

TNX for the info guys. Good stuff.
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KC4VWU
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« Reply #26 on: October 22, 2009, 05:12:29 AM »

The little 30" hand brake works real well. I have one here and it has more than paid for itself. I gave like $30-40 for it several years ago at a Chuck Homier tool sale. 
If you can get another piece of flat bar stock like the one that comes with it, have a machine shop cut it into different lengths. That, along with an assortment of different C clamps, will allow bending pans or boxes. Just remember to not overwork the brake with materials that are too thick for it.

Phil
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #27 on: October 22, 2009, 07:44:45 AM »


I owned a DeWalt 14.4v cordless 5 3/8" circular saw for quite a while without using it.  It came in a kit of 14.4v tools, and I never used it, favoring my corded circsaw.  One day I noticed an inexpensive DeWalt 5 3/8" Alumimum Cutting blade for it on Amazon and ordered it.  Wow, from that day forward I've had no more issues cutting AL, including .125" plate.  No lubrication required, just take your time with the cut, and it goes like butter.  Just like cutting pine.  I've even used it on 3/8" heatsink backpane.  That little DeWalt circular saw with the AL blade does a great job.

73, Karl

Better wax that blade!! Or eventually when the aluminum builds up on the teeth, you'll be pickin the blades teeth out of yours! !   Grin
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"No is not an answer and failure is not an option!"
4cx250
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« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2009, 02:09:55 PM »

Hello,

     I have used a plasma cutter for many years on metel. It works very well. You just have to be careful when cutting AL, as it forms hydrogen pockets as itcuts.
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kg8lb
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« Reply #29 on: October 26, 2009, 06:30:41 AM »

 Plasma cutters work best on non ferrous alloys but the results are not as easily controlled as some other methods, Here at work we use  water jets and lasers, with the water jet being the choice for the thicker cuts. Cuts thru  150 mm aluminum like butter. For high precision work like internal splines and gears  we use a wire EDM.
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Ed/KB1HYS
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« Reply #30 on: October 26, 2009, 07:51:00 AM »

Wow, seems we have run the gamut of metal cutting techiniques here.

I did cut some 0.060 steel panels out this weekend, I used an abrasive wheel in the table saw and just treated it like it was a piece of wood.  Kept the feed speed low and it worked quite well.  Much straighter and less post cut cleanup than a hacksaw (not to mention the arm savings!) much better than the saber saw with metal blade for straight cuts.   
I did pick up a couple of hole saws for making cut-outs, as greenlee punches seem a little scarce in these parts.  The BM saws worked great on the alum.  I'll have to try them out on the steel and see what happens. 
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73 de Ed/KB1HYS
Happiness is Hot Tubes, Cold 807's, and warm room filling AM Sound.
 "I've spent three quarters of my life trying to figure out how to do a $50 job for $.50, the rest I spent trying to come up with the $0.50" - D. Gingery
KL7OF
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« Reply #31 on: October 26, 2009, 09:46:35 AM »

I bought a 7.25 inch blade with carbide teeth that fits in my worm drive skilsaw that cuts steel.  It is specifically designed for this and it cuts up to 1/4 in steel plate easily.....It is recommended for use in worm drives as they have a slower blade speed and more power..... wear yor hearing and face protection....Available at your local welding supply...
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