The AM Forum
May 15, 2024, 05:19:16 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Calendar Links Staff List Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: grounding tube bases with these should be a snap  (Read 6047 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
N3DRB The Derb
Guest
« on: October 12, 2009, 11:04:04 PM »

2.5" cap clamps for 4E27's - even got some good Laird finger stock to snap onto each one. this should work FB.

try em on in the morning.



* P1020192.jpg (138.17 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 385 times.)
Logged
N2DTS
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2303


« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2009, 09:01:46 AM »

They look like electrolytic cap mounts.
Should work, but might look odd.
Are you mounting the sockets below the chassis?
That helps cooling with the chimney effect, gives extra room, and helps with the shielding.

Brett
Logged
N3DRB The Derb
Guest
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2009, 09:42:26 AM »

sockets are flush mounted to chassis bottom as of now, but I think I'll be mounting them on thick hole aluminum 5/16" spacers. It does not matter for the plain old HK tube as they have no air holes in the base for air to go anywhere - but the Eimac and RCA versions do and I have some of them now. At 2KV @135~150 ma I dont think the base seals will be an issue. Not enough scrote there to have the molten solder problem with the pins or anything.

I do have 2 little tiny cage blowers at the ready and I may just use 1 of them for that deck. The other is a larger Dayton job that needs to go on a higher power unit, a 2 hole HK. I dont think it would move enough air for a 4-400.

lemme model them and see how they look.

Logged
WA1GFZ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 11151



« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2009, 12:24:03 PM »

you need plenty of air through the socket holes or the heater pins will boil lead. 
Logged
N3DRB The Derb
Guest
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2009, 03:58:44 PM »

Frank, do you mean for he 4E27's as well? I know the 4-400's have to have it, but everything describes the 4E27's as radiation cooled.
Logged
N2DTS
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2303


« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2009, 06:35:17 PM »

I was thinking about non forced air cooled tubes, like say 811's.
If you mount the tube sockets on spacers below the chassis, and make the hole the tube goes into bigger than the tube base, air will flow from under the chassis around the tube and up, convection cooling....
Not talking about a huge hole...

Brett
Logged
N2DTS
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2303


« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2009, 07:21:32 PM »

Like this...


* 100_0110.JPG (747.72 KB, 2032x1524 - viewed 417 times.)
Logged
W1RKW
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4406



« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2009, 08:04:12 PM »

Derb,
When you clamp the tube bases, clamp the tube bases first then secure the clamps to the chassis otherwise you may risk unnecessary side to side stress on the tube pins and this should help center the clamp in relation to the tube and chassis in the event you have to swap tubes later on.
Logged

Bob
W1RKW
Home of GORT.
KM1H
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3514



« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2009, 09:27:12 PM »

Quote
Like this...

More than that. You need to have the full metal base sunk below at a minimum. The more you can get the visible internal grid lead entering into the glass out of sight the better the stability.

Im talking 160-10M here so if its strictly for 75 layout isnt as fussy unless you decide to add bands later. I spend more time on 20M and higher than lower so Im fussy.

Carl
KM1H

Logged
N3DRB The Derb
Guest
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2009, 11:24:21 PM »

this thing will never see anything higher than 40.

I have another option: I have a septar socket with grounding springs. I may wind up drilling out the rivets and using them instead.

Logged
w4bfs
W4 Beans For Supper
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1432


more inpoot often yields more outpoot


« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2009, 02:40:46 PM »

Like this...

very sano !  ... I am curious about the red painted variable cap ... did it doppler shift ?
Logged

Beefus

O would some power the gift give us
to see ourselves as others see us.
It would from many blunders free us.         Robert Burns
N2DTS
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2303


« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2009, 02:53:57 PM »

In the 3x4D32 rig?
Its some sort of corona dope high voltage insulating paint.
I must have had it in something before, that arc'd over....
Or I got it out of something that the PO had the same problem!

As it is, it takes 1200 volts plus modulation without problems.

Brett

Logged
N3DRB The Derb
Guest
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2009, 03:32:03 PM »

I'm gonna do the grunt work on the speech amp/modulator deck for a few days. I ripped all the old wiring out yesterday. today wick the sockets out, and change the front 4 sockets to 4 pin ceramics for the 2/6 A3's and the hytrons.

got a MRI tomorrow, so not much happening for a day.
Logged
KB2WIG
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4468



« Reply #13 on: October 15, 2009, 11:05:30 AM »

" got a MRI tomorrow, so not much happening for a day.  "

Good luck, and ask 'em if they have any pulls from da MRI machine....


klc
Logged

What? Me worry?
KM1H
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3514



« Reply #14 on: October 15, 2009, 11:10:17 AM »

Yeah, I can always use a 3CPX800 or 1500 or even a YC-156! Not everything here is AM Roll Eyes

Carl
KM1H

Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

AMfone - Dedicated to Amplitude Modulation on the Amateur Radio Bands
 AMfone © 2001-2015
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.068 seconds with 19 queries.