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Author Topic: tuning my johnson viking  (Read 2222 times)
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ki4ndb
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« on: August 31, 2009, 11:25:42 AM »

hello, all have a question about tuning my viking. i have read the operators manual on page 9 is the tuning procedure witch i have followed word for word.after starting with the drive,osc,buffer & coupling set on zero.i started the steps of tuning.when i reached the step to adjust the buffer there is no rise on the meter & if i go to the next step,witch is putting the meter in the plt position & flip the high voltage the reads about 230 ma. but the manual said to advance the drive so the meter should show 100ma.this is my first am rig & i don't want to mess anything up.any &all help will appreciated. 73's
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WQ9E
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« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2009, 11:35:57 AM »

You really want to have the proper grid current before you turn on the plate voltage.  With the meter in the grid position (and plate switch off), can you get proper grid current?  (I can't remember if you have a Viking 1 or 2; it if it a Viking 1 proper grid current is 8 to 12 mils but with the Viking 2 DO NOT EXCEED 8 mils of grid current and 6 should be plenty.

Does the buffer tuning allow you to peak the grid current?  If you get normal grid current but not buffer current then you probably have a metering problem.  But if you are not getting proper grid drive then watch out and don't cook your final.  I don't believe the Viking 1 originally had a "clamp" circuit to protect the final when it lost grid drive so unless one was added to yours you will have lots of plate current with little or no output and this will quickly overheat the final tube.  I believe the Viking 2 has a clamp circuit but I am going from memory since I don't have my manuals handy.  Of course even if it does have a clamp circuit it may not be working so again don't cook your final/power supply.

Once you have proper grid current, then throw on the plate switch and resonate the tank circuit.

If you get proper grid current but the final doesn't tune properly check to make sure that the 160 meter switching isn't on.  It is not uncommon for the drive to loosen on this such that the 160 meter components are still in the circuit even though the knob appears to be in the "normal" position.

Rodger WQ9E
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Rodger WQ9E
WA4JK
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« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2009, 02:53:50 PM »

Make sure you have a crystal or VFo selected . Oh and the Grid position on the switch could be dirty and not making good contact. Wiggle it around and see if the meter jumps to life.
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