The AM Forum
May 15, 2024, 01:00:02 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Calendar Links Staff List Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Power to New Shack  (Read 3995 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
W7SOE
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 804



« on: June 01, 2009, 05:16:48 PM »

Hi All,
    I am moving west in a month or so, across the street   Wink  I will have my own room in the basement for the shack.  I am starting to think about how to wire it. 

Right now all my gear runs on 110V.  Perhaps all I need to do is install a new dedicated 20 amp breaker or two and use those for the outlets in the shack.

Is there any advantage to installing a small sub-panel with breakers there?  I suppose it might make it easier to allow 220V later...

Any thoughts are welcome.

I am looking a this as a guide for installing a sub-panel:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/panel/sub_panel/01/prep.htm

Rich
Logged
WV Hoopie
Guest
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2009, 07:19:09 PM »

Rich,

Depends on your plans, what ends up in the station. I purchased a place in Oygun and really didn't have a plan until the stations took shape.

Started out with a 8X12 building in the back yard with an after thought for a sub-panel. The 240VAC run out to that building was not to code; buried about 3 or 4 inches deep. Surprised no one found the AC with a shovel.

Short version is the building now has a new sub-panel, #6 AWG buried in 1-1/4 inch conduit no less than 18 inches deep. Plus the building/sub-panel has the stamp of approval by the local electrical inspector. This way, upon my death, the kids will not have to worry about "what the hell did dad do".

Two stations inside, studio A is a Junkston "500" & studio B is the Junkston Desk KW. 60 AMP service to the building, transmitters run on 240VAC, third 240VAC breaker for an irrigation pump to water the yard. Other 120VAC breakers for wall outlets, overhead lights/fan, and outside lights.

The nice yellow sticker inside of the sub-panel is worth the bucks on a job done right. If the kids have to sell it after my passing, no arguments as to the electrical stuff.

Be sure any new sub-panel is large enough for future expansion. Talk to the local electrial inspector as to code requirements.

73's
wd8kdg
Craig

Logged
Jim, W5JO
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 2503


« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2009, 09:07:12 PM »

Go ahead and put in a sub panel.  Put in at least #10 wire and more sockets than you EVER in your wildest imagination will use.  Run at least # 6 from the main breaker to the sub panel.   Believe me you will use probably 4 times the number of outlets than you think about now.  Each of my circuits has its own breaker.

Put in a 30 amp 220 volt plug near your operating position and one near your test bench.  You can do just fine with 10-2 plus ground.  I have a 12 outlet strip over my operating bench and it is full.
Logged
W3SLK
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 2665

Just another member member.


« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2009, 04:39:48 PM »

I put a sub-panel in even though it was 15 feet from my load center. That way I have a 60A breaker that shuts off everything to the shack for when I do extra work. You won't regret the extra freedom when it comes to installing a 220VAC system in. Gud luck.
Logged

Mike(y)/W3SLK
Invisible airwaves crackle with life, bright antenna bristle with the energy. Emotional feedback, on timeless wavelength, bearing a gift beyond lights, almost free.... Spirit of Radio/Rush
W3RSW
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3307


Rick & "Roosevelt"


« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2009, 05:28:04 PM »

Good thoughts.
I had a 60 amp / 240V double breaker already installed for my barn in the main panel.  Since I'm not doing any welding or heavy stuff out there, I just picked off that breaker and brought out 3 ft. of conduited 240 wiring to a dryer socket.  My main panel is just to the right of my main rig bench and right above the 813's. 

I probably should put a switch box in the new 240 line between the main panel and the socket even though the main panel has a dedicated breaker.

If you do install 240, use the 4 wire option like all new appliances these days.  (separate grounding wire.)
Logged

RICK  *W3RSW*
W7SOE
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 804



« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2009, 11:49:11 AM »

Thanks guys for all the advice.  I am looking forward to this project.

Rich
Logged
ke7trp
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3654



« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2009, 05:34:09 PM »

I use a standard size bedroom for my ham shack.  This room had three 120 V outlets. I got luck as the one wall shared with another bedroom. That meant two 15 amp breakers standard.

I added a 30 amp 120V plug, with 10 gauge wire. This then runs to a breakout box we made with four 120v oulets. THis powers the Globe king 500C, and the Globe champion or valiant ect.. It can also power amplifiers that run on 110v.  The wall outlets power Solid state radios and computer gear.

I then ran a 60amp 220V plug (the big Dryer style plug) with 6 gauge wire. This powers large amps and transmitters like my 2X4x4. 

So in total I have two 15 amps lines, a 30amp line and a 220 volt 60 amp line. Alot of power for a small room!

Clark


* DSCF3380.JPG (87.2 KB, 908x681 - viewed 414 times.)
Logged
WA1GFZ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 11151



« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2009, 12:13:49 PM »

I put a quad outlet box every 2 feet on the main 14 foot bench with conduit between them. I'm sorry I didn't go a box every foot. #6 for a short run is good for a 240 run.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

AMfone - Dedicated to Amplitude Modulation on the Amateur Radio Bands
 AMfone © 2001-2015
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.146 seconds with 19 queries.