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Author Topic: johnson viking 11  (Read 4722 times)
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ki4ndb
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« on: August 16, 2009, 11:26:50 AM »

just purchased a johnson viking 11. needing a little help getting it on the air. was wandering if there is any where i can get mike plug @ ant. relay.any & all help is welcome as this is my first boatanchor. thanks in advance for any help.ki4ndb
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ve6pg
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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2009, 12:32:48 PM »

...welcome....u r gonna need a crystal type microphone. the t/r relay can be a simple 110volt relay..that's what i use on my viker...the 2 pins on the rear of the viker, supply 110v, when u throw the plate switch....i'm assuming that the mike connector is the original coaxial type...you can use a PL259 connector, but u will have to grind down the centre pin...good luck...


..sk..
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...Yes, my name is Tim Smith...sk..
Ed-VA3ES
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« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2009, 02:42:42 PM »

You're going to want to swap out that coaxial mic plug for an Amphenol/WPI 80PC2F female chassis socket and an 80MC2M male  mic plug.   You can find them at various outlets. prices vary from about $5.00 each to $16.00 each.

You will want a straight, unamplified D-104.   You will need a DowKey relay for the antenna switching, with external contacts for muting and other functions.   I use a 110 VAC version in my DX-100.  Some of the guys here may have one.  If not, I hoard them. 

Good luck.


just purchased a johnson viking 11. needing a little help getting it on the air. was wandering if there is any where i can get mike plug @ ant. relay.any & all help is welcome as this is my first boatanchor. thanks in advance for any help.ki4ndb
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"There ain't a slaw-bukit inna worl, that kin jam me!!"
ki4ndb
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« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2009, 02:44:47 PM »

hello ve6pg, thanks for the the info. the viking does have the orignal connector for the mike.as i said in my first listing this is all new to me so please bare with me i still have a lot to learn about hooking up a receiverto the viking. looks like i'll be aropund for a while(lol).
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ki4ndb
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« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2009, 02:48:46 PM »

thanks ed, i'll start looking for that connector to see if i can find one around here  if not i'll try to get wit you.thank you for your help.
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Ed-VA3ES
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« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2009, 02:55:34 PM »

I changed the P/N of the female chassis connector to 80PC2F, which is the correct one.

thanks ed, i'll start looking for that connector to see if i can find one around here  if not i'll try to get wit you.thank you for your help.

If you're really stuck,, and can't find either the connectors, or the relay, let me know.  Hopefully, some more local U.S.-based hams can help you out, otherwise. let me know.  I have stock of everything.  I mean everything.   40+ years of hoarding parts.    And I really mean EVERYTHING!!!!
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"There ain't a slaw-bukit inna worl, that kin jam me!!"
ve6pg
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« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2009, 05:30:36 PM »

..ok.. now the truth is out....reason we cant find anything is, ED HAS IT ALL......

..sk..
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...Yes, my name is Tim Smith...sk..
KC4VWU
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« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2009, 07:20:03 PM »

        Hi, I'm doing the very same thing right now, getting a V II ready to go on the air. I would suggest checking it over well first, test tubes and replace bad ones if needed. Check electrolytic caps for signs of leakage; replaceing them would be cheap insurance if they are old. Some trouble spots are checking for signs of carbon tracking from arc over at the rectifier tube sockets and at the roller inductor. There are quite a few good threads on this and a bunch of great guys here that knows them way better than myself.
        After a good visual and investigative checkout, bring it up slowly with a variac or a least place a 80-100w light bulb in the primary line to current limit just in case there is somthing wrong. If all is still well, plug it in directly and get the tune up procedures. Try loading it up in CW first. I am getting about 80w carrier into a dummy load from mine. I'm leaning more towards an outboard modulator intead of using the internal one.
         Let us know how it's progressing!
73, Phil KC4VWU
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ki4ndb
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« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2009, 07:56:27 PM »

hello kc4vwu, checked everything out this morning all looks good. put it on my varaic today let it run for a few mins. with low voltage before we brought the voltage up to specs. don't think i over looked anything. waiting to get a relay so we can get this bad boy on the air. hopefully it won't be long. thanks for the the info as i am new to this type of rig. ki4ndb 73's
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WQ9E
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« Reply #9 on: August 16, 2009, 08:27:14 PM »

Any decent relay with a 110-120V AC coil will work fine and you don't have to have a Dow Key type relay.  You will need at least a DPDT contact arrangement; one set to switch the antenna and another set to mute the receiver.  Obviously more poles will work so if you have a 4PDT relay in your junk box use that. 

If you are in a hurry just pick up a model 275-217 for $8.49 from your local Radio Shack store and it will work fine.  I have used several of these over the years for transmitters up through the Valiant level with no problems and they will probably work just fine at even higher power levels. 

If you run it on CW (without full break-in) you can use one of the extra sets of contacts to keep the matching VFO-122 keyed whenever the plate switch is on.  Set up this way you have virtually chirp free CW without dealing with adding a differential keyer modification.

Rodger WQ9E
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Rodger WQ9E
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