T-368 question

[k3sqp]

Mainly just out of curious ousity  ...How does one determine
the manufacturer of a T-368C... the serial # plate is missing.
Has lotsa B&W parts...
Thanks
Frank
K3SQP

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Heya Frank - Long time no RF!   

B&W, Crosley, and Daystrom made C models, perhaps others as well (maybe Bendix?). It's been more than a few days, but IIRC, there's an ink stamp on the back corner of each deck with a contract number and manufacturer's name. As far as specific pedigree goes, like the R-390 family of receivers, depot maintenance made many of these transmitters into mongrels. It wouldn't surprise me if they did the same tag-swap thing as well: strip the tags for repaint, throw them into a box or bucket, grab one at random to re-attach afterwards. Mine appears to be mostly a Stromberg-Carlson D model with stamped or engraved panels, but the power supply has a screened panel and is no doubt from a different model and manufacturer.

[Jim, W5JO]

I just sold one here that the tag said Oneida.  I had never heard of them until this one.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Yeah, didn't they make flatware??  You must've had an 'F' model Jim, the last ones made. Pretty sure most, if not all of the Fs were Oneida, Ecco, or TRW. Yep - TRW made 'em too.   

[k3sqp]

Thanks, thats what I figgered. I think mine is a "B" rf deck and "C" PS and MOD.
Most discerible markings were gone when I got it. Pix of rescue at www.iaara.org 
members section, k3sqp.. It's almost finished and ready for check out. Will get
finished pix soon....
  Todd, have been on 40 mostly and had a few nice AM contacts on 10...
Frank
K3SQP

[WBear2GCR]

Frank,

Nice looking paint... wonder if you had any aluminum panels there, and if so what did you use to strip, clean, prime and paint?

I know the subpanels for the tuning and the exciter are aluminum... or at least the ones I have are! 

My RF deck is engraved, no tag on it, and it is aluminum that needs a strip and repaint for certain...

Looks like my three decks are all from different vintages, as the PS deck has the main iron with the 220v winding!  But those are steel panels... easier to strip and paint.

Anyone else with ideas on the strip and the prime part, jump right in?

                _-_-WBear2GCR

[Jim, W5JO]

Painting aluminum is just different than painting steel.  Strip it, sand lightly, clean using mild soap and water, then prime with zinc primer.   Sand very lightly then reprime.  Then a VERY light sanding and wash again using mild soap and water.  When dry, paint with your choice of paint.

Just be sure your surfaces are clean when you apply anything.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

I need to find a stamped/engraved power supply panel or entire deck to swap out the later silk screened one on the 'D' model. Definitely steel, as it has the surface rust nasties along the bottom edge and will need to be repainted.

Haven't been in the air since May, but I'll give a listen for you over the weekend, Frank. Running at reduced power these days (32V) due to LV/Bias problems with the big rig. Shouldn't be an issue on 40.

[WBear2GCR]

Painting aluminum is just different than painting steel.  Strip it, sand lightly, clean using mild soap and water, then prime with zinc primer.   Sand very lightly then reprime.  Then a VERY light sanding and wash again using mild soap and water.  When dry, paint with your choice of paint.

Just be sure your surfaces are clean when you apply anything.

The stripping part is an issue too... as in how...

but assuming it was stripped, do you mean zinc chromate primer?
afaik, they stopped making it.

I think Sherwin Williams makes a special primer for aluminum, but the people at the SW local stores give me that "Nipper" look when I ask about it... the website was ponderous, and impossible to navigate, irrc...

                _-_-bear

[W1EUJ]

They have the green chromate primer at West Marine. I used it for my R-390 panel. Rustoleum Professional Machine Grey is a good formulation - after a curing under a heat lamp, it made for a nice, hard, original looking coat.

[Jim, W5JO]

Painting aluminum is just different than painting steel.  Strip it, sand lightly, clean using mild soap and water, then prime with zinc primer.   Sand very lightly then reprime.  Then a VERY light sanding and wash again using mild soap and water.  When dry, paint with your choice of paint.

Just be sure your surfaces are clean when you apply anything.

The stripping part is an issue too... as in how...

but assuming it was stripped, do you mean zinc chromate primer?
afaik, they stopped making it.

I think Sherwin Williams makes a special primer for aluminum, but the people at the SW local stores give me that "Nipper" look when I ask about it... the website was ponderous, and impossible to navigate, irrc...

                _-_-bear

Bear look for "Aircraft Stripper"  I find both it and zinc chromate primer at my local auto parts store.

Check a large hardware store as well.  There is a local hardware store in Dallas I try to buzz by everytime I go to pick up things like this.  The stripper is very common here.  It is a paint on or spray can depending on how much you want.  It works very well on steel or aluminum.  Use a soft bristle brush and do not use a scraper to avoid marking the surface of aluminum.  If you penetrate the surface of aluminum, you can start corrision.  You can also use a Scotchbrite pad, but do wear proper gloves when working with the stripper.

Jim