And now, Viking questions, if you please...

[K7NCR]

Hey All.
OK, The deal is done, I've got a Viking II on the way. I think I have a handle on the electronic mods availible, but I need a source for the wrinkle paint on the cabinet, and colors for the face. Any thoughts? Is the National NC-300 cabinet wrinkle also?
I'm planing where it will go in the shack, looking forward to some 160M action!
Norm K7NCR

[K7NCR]

Maybe I should paint the Viking 2 tone grey like the National, since only the national cabinet needs paint, and the whole johnson needs refinished, even the face...

[W9GT]

Some Viking cabinets may be wrinkle, mine wasn't.  As for paint...go to your local auto paint dealer.  They can match the colors and even put paint in spray cans for you if you don't want to use a spray gun.  I used an air brush and got excellent results.  You can even buy generic touch-up paint in spray can form that is a close match to the Johnson maroon cabinet.  The car paint place also has other supplies like super fine grades of sandpaper, masking supplies, etc.  Your biggest challenge will be re-silk screening the front panel.  If that is necessary, you might have to have a screen made or borrow one from someone who already has one. 

Some may bring up the issue of being able to purchase auto paint because of environmental concerns.  I didn't have any problem here...of course, I was only purchasing very small quantities.

73,  Jack, W9GT

[K7NCR]

Good point,,
Anyone have a screen or scan of the face? I guess if I dont want a "100 point" resto, I could use a claer label maker. I would like to keep the Johnson logo tho.

[AF9J]

Jack,

That's interesting.  My Viker 2 has black wrinkle for for the enclosure, and the front panel is 1/2 gray, and 1/2 black.  Is yours a Viking 1?

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[Pete, WA2CWA]

My Viking II cabinet does not have a wrinkle finish.

After front panel whatever color painting, you could use rub-on dry transfers and then put a clear spray cover coat. For the logo, you could scan it from a document, and then print it on a clear Avery type label, then trim away all the excess; press in place and then cover with a coat of clear spray.

[ve6pg]

..my viker has wrinkle black, as well..
 hobby shops sell a clear, liquid masking compound. use a tooth pick, and "paint" over the lettering, and logo. after applying the new maroon/gray paint, gently rub the areas of the lettering, and the old greenish lettering will become visible...it just takes time, and a steady hand....tim...sk..

[WBear2GCR]

The two Viking IIs that I have owned both had maroon and grey on the front panel, and a dark "maroon/brown" wrinkle paint on the cabinet - definitely not black.

There are, fyi, some products out that permit you to make a decal using your color printer - so in theory you could closeup photo the logo, and photoshop to correct any blemishes, and get rid of the grey background (make it go transparent) then put it on the decal material and apply to the new painted front panel after repainting.

Then maybe even an overcoat of low sheen clear...

Test the process first on anything that is not the rig... 

The best bet for paint for the rig is not the auto store, unless they can mix less than full bore gloss paint, imho. Sherwin Williams also does color matching and they can provide color in Alkyd paint, which is proably fairly close to what was used back in the day... will require an airbrush or touch-up type paint gun to apply. They probably can supply some other paint as well, but I am sure the Alkyd is available. You can bake the Alkyd at low temp in the oven for a faster dry/harder finish.

I'd not want high gloss paint on any electronic gear myself... too much reflection, and shows fingerprints too well.

Some of the old Johnson paint was just awful stuff, really really bad. One of the two  Vikers had bad paint and it was dead soft stuff that wouldn't even stand a half decent cleaner like Fantastik without rubbing off.

                  _-_-bear

[K7NCR]

The local Harley Davidson shop is rumored to carry a black wrinkle paint in spray cans. I'm tempted to try some, and try a light fog coat over it for correct color. Will investigate further. So far, some excellent ideas here. Anyone here have a good scan of the front panel logo?

[Jim, W5JO]

The local Harley Davidson shop is rumored to carry a black wrinkle paint in spray cans.

This is true, but decent size auto parts stores, hardware stores and even our Wal-Mart has it.  I would imagine Harley stuff is expensive compared to others.  As for the quality, not enough you would be able to tell.  The devil is in the application

[W9GT]

Jack,

That's interesting.  My Viker 2 has black wrinkle for for the enclosure, and the front panel is 1/2 gray, and 1/2 black.  Is yours a Viking 1?

73,
Ellen - AF9J

Ellen....

Nope, I don't have it anymore, but it was a stock Viking II.  I don't think any of them were black ( at least not from the factory).  Apparently, however, some were wrinkle-finished maroon cabinets, some were not.  I believe that all Johnson gear was maroon and gray, with some varying shades according to the vintage.  Some of the early Viking I' s could have had black cabinets, I'm not sure about that.

Bear....

Not all paint that you get from the auto place is high gloss...they have all kinds.  The stuff I used was enamel, but it was not high gloss and was quick dry.  As I recall, I had to mix it with "reducer"  to get the right consistency for spraying with the air brush.  They also had several types of lacquer...and, of course, the newer stuff which consisted of base coat and clear coat...that stuff was expensive and for my money is too "shiny" for restoring boatanchors anyway.

The suggestion to use the "decal" paper for the lettering is a good one.  That stuff is available at hobby shops and on - line and can be used with ink-jet printers to reproduce colored lettering and logos as well.  After applying it to the panel, you coat with a clear coating.  Might be good to use a "satin" finish.  Just make sure it is compatible with the paint you used on the panel (check on a test surface first). 

73,  Jack, W9GT

[W9GT]

Another comment about the "decal" paper.  You print it on an ink-jet printer, then you spray it with Krylon clear coat to "fix" the image before you put it in water to loosen the decal for application.  I have used it for some home brew projects, with fantastic results.  Ya just gotta really be careful with the stuff.  I guess it depends on how fussy you are about restoring a  piece of commercial gear.  The decals probably aren't going to look 100% like the original silk-screening.  However, it is expensive to have silk-screens made and it is not a simple process to silk screen a panel and get perfect results...takes care and experience to do it right.

73,  Jack, W9GT

[Jim, W5JO]

However, it is expensive to have silk-screens made and it is not a simple process to silk screen a panel and get perfect results...takes care and experience to do it right.

73,  Jack, W9GT

You are correct Jack.  About a year ago I wanted  to silk screen the panel of a Globe Champ 300A.  I found a local graphic artist who made me a full size panel in digital format on Adobe.  I emailed it to a place in Washington who produced the screen and furnished the frame.  All that cost less than the paint for the panel. 

The guy who did it for me only charged for the paint.  If I had to pay labor, the final product would have been more costly than the radio's value if sold.  As it was, I spent about what the radio was worth on the panel.  If anyone decides to screen a panel and do a paint job right, they better plan on keeping the radio.  You certainly won't sell it for what you spend

[AF9J]

Hi Jack & Bear,

I put a bright light on my Viker, and double checked the colors.  If it's a non-stock finish, it sure was expertly done.  The stencils/graphics all look original.  The finish was either redone a long time ago, or is the original finish.  If it's maroon, instead of black, it's the darkest maroon I've ever seen (even moreso than the knobs, which are very dark maroon).  And yes, it is wrinkle finished on the non-gray areas (it looks kind of cool).

73,
Ellen - AF9J