HOW TO IMPROVE SHIPPING AND AVOID DINGED-UP EQUIPMENT

[k4kyv]

I work at BEXT Inc. and repair and ship everything that comes into and leaves BEXT, although the remarks I am about to make apply to shipping electronic equipment in general and not just to or from Bext in particular. One of the things I am always seeing are heavy items being sent to us that get broken in shipping. The usual cause is that the station takes the item down to the local UPS or Fed-X store where workers just don't have the proper training to ship heavy items correctly. They usually either wrap the 50+ lb. object in bubble wrap or -- even worse -- fill the box with popcorn and ship it. This invariably leads us to file a breakage report.

The biggest thing to remember is this: your package will be handled by the lowest paid helpers that the shipping agency can find and the act of shipping will add incredible stress to your box.

Shipping Hints

[W4RON]

Don, you are exactly right, and it also not the fault of the shipper
if an item gets damaged. It's the packers fault for not packing it properly.
The person handling your package does not and should not have to worry
about whats in the box. If ti's packed properly it'll survive, period.
When I ship something I over pack to the extreme and I've never
and anything damaged.

Of course it can be a double edged sword, one of the prized
pieces of my collection is my Clough-Brengle model 87 transmitter.
The ONLY reason I got it is because the guy I bought it from allowed
it to be shipped VIA UPS and it was very poorly packed so it got damaged.
He didn't want to mess with trying to repair it so he sold it to me.
Here's some photos of it,
http://radioheaven.homestead.com/CB87project.html
http://radioheaven.homestead.com/CB87.html 


W4RON

[W1RKW]

That urethane insulation foam is a good idea but keep in mind it either requires air or humidity to cure.  Deep pockets may not cure and remain liquid once the outside areas cure thus sealing the inner volumes from receiving the necessary air or humidity to cure properly while still in a foam state.   Plain old plastic will act as an air and moisture barrier and prevent curing in those deep areas and volumes. These uncured volumes are open pockets and danger spots for the equipment. Layering this stuff would be a good approach. 

How does one judge whether the packaging is adequate? I'm not so sure I would test my packaging by dropping heavy a package from 10ft. to a concrete floor to be sure the packaging job I did was adequate or better.

[Jim, W5JO]

Recently I purchased a 75 lb. through the wall heat pump for my new shack.  It came with styrofoam 2 inches thick on the bottom with a cut out for it to set in.  It had 2 inch thick side supports on the top that fit the box it was in.

So when I had to ship an HT 44 and PS 150 to Tenn, so I went to my local lumberyard who sells 4 X 8 sheets of the 1 inch styrofoam for a vapor barrier to use on the external walls.  Cost, about $5.00.  I found two boxes that were about 2-3 inches larger than the units and cut the sheets to fit the bottom, top and sides of the box.  I then cut out one piece to fit the front over the knobs and meter. 

The results was the unit was immobilized in the box by the styrofoam.  I used DHL for the carrier because they have a better history of handling fragile packages and are not nearly as argumentative as others about claims. 

[w3jn]

I've had to ship several heavy and fragile items.  Until Todd's escapade with the mod former I always used FedEx ground, and never had anything damaged.

What I do is buy a sheet of cheap masonite then cut the pieces to snugly fit each side of the box, thereby reinforcing the whole bux to the point where it's almost indestructible.  It's cheap, quick, and effective.

[WBear2GCR]

The Secret Is:

Proper double boxing.

The inner box should be filled fully with styrofoam sheet cut to fit tightly.
No motion possible whatsoever.
Transformers will bend sheet metal if not properly and fully supported. Think about the chassis being hung off the transformer, not the other way around. Sometimes you have to stuff something inside the chassis to add stiffness... rarely though.

CORNERS must be solid with styrofoam.

Light objects can be packed with peanuts, but tightly packed.

That box should be placed inside another larger box that adds ideally 1-2" in all dimensions. The gap between the two should be filled with either styro sheet or else peanuts, depending on the weight of the object inside - heavier objects get the solid sheet treatment.

This works up to a total weight of about 100lbs.

Once you get up past 60-75lbs you have to worry about the box strength, and you have to increase the gap between the inner and outer boxes.

Count on packing to withstand a drop onto a concrete floor from a height of 20 ft.

The problem with this system, and why most folks don't do it (when you're getting the package) is that it takes me about 2-4 hours to pack!! 

I've yet to have any damage shipping this way regardless of the carrier. That over a period of about 17 years, and shipping hundreds of items during that time.

           _-_-bear

[N1ESE]

I've had the exact opposite experience with my local UPS Store.  I brought the Chippewa there to be packed and shipped and told them I wanted it double-boxed.  When W9RAN received the Chippewa, he couldn't believe how well packed it was.  Here are his comments:
 
"I have to say the UPS store did a very good job and I've not always been a fan of theirs.  But this would have survived even the kind of abuse that packages sometimes get without damage I think.  They filled the interior of the amp with air packs and then bubble wrapped it so no chance for things to bounce around.  Looks just like your pictures."
 
I have since shipped several vintage rigs and had them package them with no problems.  The only downside is that it costs a bit more than doing it yourself.
 
YMMV naturally as I do agree that quite a few people employed by these stores truly have no clue.
 
- JT

[AF9J]

Hmmmm, lessee. I work at a place with a foam bagging system in its shipping department. We also have double walled boxes, and nylon threaded packing tape.  I use these facilites to pack my stuff.  I pack as though it's going to go through WW3.  I foam EVERYTHING in solid.  Since it's a foam bagging system, the box is foamed in solid.  You don't need a double walled box (although it helps things), but the radio gear needs to be solidly immobilized.  Since it's going to get tossed around (I've seen UPS and FedEx people in action - they THROW things), the solid foaming keeps the box from caving in. I also put LARGE (not small - that's too wimpy) bubble wrap in front of the front panel, and rear panels from some shock absorption - foam all the way around the radio protects everything, but isn't good for shock absorption from jarring landings.  When I tape the box seams. I use the packing tape all the way across the top, and bottom of the box. not just at the seams.  I've seen tape fail.  This way if one piece of tape starts to fail, there are other pieces to take up the load.   

I have yet to hear that any of my packaged radios were received with damage.  As a matter of fact, at the moment, the FRG-7 I got from my neighbor, is going to a friend of mine in California, who as an SWL, can make better use of it than I can.  I have no worries about it being damaged.  My packing  may add weight shippingwise, but it beats having a trashed item.  I think that's part of the Reason my Scout has problems. It was poorly packaged in newspapers, and the box was caved in when I got it.  Also, the Scout had moved around in the box, and the recifier tube was smashed.  FWIW - I also mark the box Fragile, although as we all know, that's often ignored by UPS & Fed EX, etc.

73,
Ellen - AF9J   

[K6JEK]

Hey pros, I have a question. Things like receivers I wrap tightly in a couple of layers big bubble pack and put inside box #1. Box #1 is separated from box #2 by solid foam all the way around, no gaps.

I thought I was doing a wonderful job. Nothing wiggles. Maybe the bubble absorbs some shocks.   Would I be better off using packing foam in the inside box too, instead of the bubble pack?

[AF9J]

Even though I use bubble pack around the front and back panel for shock absorption, the whole radio is still surrounded by foam.  Double boxing is good, but it will not immobilize things enough to keep them from moving.  I do not bubble wrap the sides of the radio.  Those are seldom damaged by movement, BUT, the foam on the sides helps immobilize things, and if there is a major jarring movement, it will absorb the shock. You still need to keep the radio relatively immobile in the inner box.

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[k4kyv]

I once flew from the west coast and checked through a box of books and magazines.  The box must have weighed 75  lbs.  Way above the  limit.  But this was in 1965, and they weren't so picky about such things as they are today.  As I was waiting to board the plane, I watched the workers struggle with my box as they loaded it.  I could almost hear the grunts and profanity through the soundproof window of the waiting area.

Surprisingly, it arrived intact at my destination, with no surcharge for overweight luggage.

[WBear2GCR]

My experience with received packages says:

Avoid "air pillows" like the plague!!

They seem to have the ability to deflate, and then leave your item bouncing around in bad ways. I'd never ever use them, unless I found some with incredibly heavy walls, and even then I'd be very wary and test them extensively first.

The rest of my experience says that with a heavish item of regular shape foam cut to fit, including around knobs and handles is superior on the inner box, and then bubble wrap outside (which is intended to permit some shift and energy absorption in the process) is better than the other way around. For a light item like a solid state receiver, it probably doesn't matter much. It gets more critical as the weight and edges/protrusions increase.

As far as "UPS Stores" - not all UPS stores or workers are created equal. Some are "company stores" others are "franchise stores" and still others are "affiliated stores".

I really like the foamed in place solution, and if I could have a unit to use when I need to ship, I'd pick that first over everything else...

Ellen, double boxing will if done properly keep the unit from shifting within the inner box which is precisely what you want. That is ZERO movement in the inner box. Depending on the mass and weight of the unit, you adjust the "pack" between the boxes to absorb a majority of the energy when it is thrown and dropped on its corners (worst case example). I want the outer box to get destroyed, and I want the packing between the two boxes to compress!! That's the same principle used in cars for the "crash zone" and in NASCAR cars where the body panels will fly off, engine flys off, wheels fly off, but the cage around the driver remains solid and intact. The energy has to be dissipated somewhere, somehow and not transmitted to the unit.

               _-_-WBear2GCR

[W1ATR]

Once the auction is over and the payment clears, I normally just wrap the item up with brown butchers paper tied up with string. Put a tag on it and off it goes.

[John K5PRO]

I try to use the double boxed method with the hard styrofoam sheet insulation board like Jim, W5JO, suggested, for heavy items. Sent a large plate transformer that way 6 months ago, no problem.

At work last week, some idiot shipped an HP/Agilent 8753E network analyzer back to Santa Rosa for calibration. It ended up trashed at the other end. Turns out they only packaged it with a couple of small pads of bubble wrap at the front and rear panels and nothing on the sides or top, so it looked. The LCD display had broken glass. Connectors probably bent. Sad. The person who packaged it should have been fired. Oooooh!
73
John

[WBear2GCR]

Ummm... can I have the poor, bent, broken HP analyzer??   


             _-_-bear

[WA1GFZ]

I always build a wood crate with 1/2 inch plywood and 1X2 or 1X3 corners.
I use foam panels around the inside of the box and only use a little small bubble wrap. The mil guys say it needs to take a 30 inch drop on all corners. I've also had very good luck with FEDEX....knock on wood as a box of cubic modules is headed my way via fedex.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Biggest mistake made by many folks is cutting corners on shipping costs after spending big $ for something. Makes no sense.

The best practical* packaging is always the place to start. For example, I've had very good luck using packing peanuts, but only as filler between densely-wadded newspaper for example. It's all about material compression and the ability of the item to shift in shipment. I seldom intentionally drop a box to test the packing: it will get plenty of shocks like this during shipment. Instead, I pack it up, close the flaps, and shake it around, then add additional packaging until there's no wiggle room left. Even with double-boxing, the inside box needs to be done right to prevent the item from simply thrashing around inside of an additional box. 

Never discount the opportunity to send your own custom made shipping containers either. Sure - it's more time and expense, but for items you've searched long and hard for...do you really want to rely on the seller's version of 'excellent packing'? It's right up there with the use of 'excellent condition', open to interpretation and opinion.

I'd never had anything damaged by FedEx until they trashed my mod iron. It happens, regardless of packing or shipper of choice. Even double-boxed, mounted on a board, solid foam packing between layers/boxes. Ask WA2PJP sometime about the transformer he sent to Dahl in a thick plywood box.
 

*open to interpretation, doing it 'on the cheap', etc.