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Author Topic: KW Matchbox knob position  (Read 4104 times)
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K6JEK
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« on: April 22, 2007, 10:38:38 PM »

What is the correct knob positioning for the Johnson KW matchbox?   

On the left knob, Tuning, I assume 0 is minimum capacitance.   Correct?

On the right knob, Matching,  is 0 also minimum?   That would make 50 max and 100 minimum again.
Alternately, if 100 is maximum then 0 and 50 are minimum.   Either that or I'm not looking at the split stator capacitor correctly.

Jon
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2007, 12:32:10 PM »

That would depend on the position of the knob with respect to the % of mesh in the air variable cap.

Suggest you open the box and look.

           _-_-WBear2GCR
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
W1UJR
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« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2007, 01:31:49 PM »

What is the correct knob positioning for the Johnson KW matchbox?   

On the left knob, Tuning, I assume 0 is minimum capacitance.   Correct?

On the right knob, Matching,  is 0 also minimum?   That would make 50 max and 100 minimum again.
Alternately, if 100 is maximum then 0 and 50 are minimum.   Either that or I'm not looking at the split stator capacitor correctly.

Jon


Hi Joe,

I'll try to offer a helpful reply.
I have several Matchboxes, love them, excellent units, very robust and low loss.
I doubt if any of my models, even the very clean ones, have not yet had the knobs removed and reinstalled, so I can not speak to how it was done at the factory.

What I do here, and I always open up the Matchboxes for inspection, as often the T/R is jumped out to use on a transceiver.
Or I sometimes need to change the tap for the receiver antenna to match the expected feedpoint impedance.

When I reinstall the knobs, I use the "0" setting for a fully unmeshed cap, and the "100" for fully meshed.
Its really a moot point, as the number is just a relative "logging scale".
What I do is generate a small cheat sheet with the various settings for each freq that I wish to operate.
I really don't care if its 20, 30 or 40, always as it is consistent.

Does that help?

73 Bruce W1UJR
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2007, 01:43:04 PM »

Check where the set screws landed on the shafts. My unit I bought new and left numbers go up with frequency. Right Z goes up with numbers. Z I suspect Tap goes higher C to the inductor end and low c to ground on each output.
I paid $176 for my tuner back around '73.

BTW feeder current is the same with the match box and balanced / balanced tuner
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K6JEK
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« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2007, 12:25:15 AM »

Thanks guys.   

This one had seen some rough times.  The shafts looked like than been gnawed on by a raccoon with steel teeth.   I opened it up.  I'd forgotten just what nice beasts these are.   Serious stuff.

I ended up setting the left knob so 0 means minimum capacitance.  Because of the structure of the fixed stator cap, the right knob will have either two minimums or two maximums in the 0 - 100 range.  I flipped a coin and went for the two minimums, one at 0 and one at 100 with max at 50.  If the coin had come out the other way I would have installed it with a max at 0, a max at 100 and a min at 50.

The manual is mum on the subject.

Jon
 
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Mike/W8BAC
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« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2007, 07:38:09 AM »

Hi Jon,

I have had mine apart several times for various reasons. The first time open I had the same question. My shafts had been chewed up as well. I simply placed the caps at the half coupled position and the knobs at mid scale. This worked perfectly. Tune up on all bands is on scale. Good luck.

Mike
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2007, 09:05:56 AM »

Mike I did the same thing because the manual doesn't show how they are set. I think my unit is set 100 being min C on the left. The only clue would come from the Z graphs. 
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