lacquer Sticks

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Mike/W8BAC:
Thanks everyone for the replies to my post. Links and information relating to the "Soft" Lacquer sticks helped to clear up and put into perspective the information I had collected from  others. I think Skip, K7YOO got the idea light burning but you guys brought it into full focus.

I'm going to try both the paint option and the lacquer stick method just to see which one I like the best in different applications. Thanks Frank for taking the time to write the definitive "How To" for paint stick application. Jim, the painting instructions will be followed to your specifications (as best I can). Don and Jim, Thanks for the help with the old paint issues and links to the soft (real) paint sticks. I'll write more when the sticks get here and I have had time to goof around with them.

If you have input I (and I suspect others) would like to hear it and if the AM Forum can save this thread for others I think it's worthy. 73

Mike

k7yoo:
Mike:
W1ATR is right on--one key thing he mentioned is not to wipe an area twice with the same paper. I like the notebook paper idea but pieces of cotton sheet or cloth stretched over a stiff rubber block also works well. NO FUZZY MATERIAL!
or you will pull the paint out of the engraving.
I did an SP600 panel recently and wet sanded (with block) using 2000 grit before waxing--lturned out very nice

W1UJR:
If one is able to gently heat the panel, say with a hairdryer, or heat-gun set on low, the lacquer stick will flow into the groves more readily.
Does not have to be scorching, just enough to be uncomfortable to the touch.
Worked like a charm when I redid T-368 #3 back in 1998.

73 Bruce W1UJR

k4kyv:
They tend to dry out, even if kept sealed in an air-tight container.  I usually have to carve away the dried-out skin over the end of the stick if I haven't used it for a while.

Before discovering the laquer sticks, I used to use plain old oil-based white paint and liquid stripper to restore bakelite dials.  I would fill the grooves with the paint, and the wipe away the excess.  After it had nearly dried, I would slightly dampen a piece of cotton cloth with liquid (not paste) paint remover, and wipe away the remaining residue around the markings.

One caution:  NEVER use a hard tool, like a sharp metal needle or pin or a nail, to clean the old paint from the grooves that form the markings.  This will damage the original markings, and leave sloppy  looking markings when the new paint or lacquer is applied.  I use an old nylon tweaking stick, like the ones used to adjust slug tuned coils.  I sharpen the nylon stick to a sharp point.  This will remove the old paint without damaging the plastic.  A wooden or plastic toothpick would probably work just as well.

KM1H:
When I worked in the Service Dept at National in the 60's we repainted many customer cabinets. The panels markings were filled with a stick similar in appearance to the lacquer used today but were white lead. You may have to go to China to find them these days but the process was quick and simple and done in an hour or less.

Carl
KM1H
National Radio 1963-69

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