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Author Topic: Johnson Matchbox Question  (Read 22585 times)
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W2VW
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« Reply #25 on: October 29, 2006, 09:11:33 PM »

I should really unwind the unused coil to be frugal.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #26 on: October 29, 2006, 09:24:56 PM »

Just cut it with the Sawz-All.
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« Reply #27 on: October 29, 2006, 11:16:06 PM »

Copper doesn't cut well with a sawzall.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #28 on: October 30, 2006, 10:22:59 AM »

Cut a copper pipe with one yesterday. Took about 5 secopnds. Made a nice ground rod.
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K1JJ
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« Reply #29 on: October 30, 2006, 10:34:04 AM »

Yep, copper can be a challenge if thick material. But much depends on the blade. There's many different tooth patterns to try on copper. You can find one that works for the particular grade and thickness.

I find aluminum to be a challenge. Cutting sheet can clog up the teeth on even a band saw. The blade needs to be brushed off or cutting slows to a crawl.  I find coarser teeth to be the answer with 3/16" or thicker sheet alum.

Just brought a bunch of scrap yard alum panels to a shop to shear. He made me four large 19" panels for free.  So I figger, why bother trying to saw it?

T
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« Reply #30 on: October 30, 2006, 10:45:50 AM »

cutting copper is easy. Try drilling a thick hunk without breaking the bitl.
I find you have to turn slow to keep it from binding
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #31 on: October 30, 2006, 11:19:04 AM »

When drilling soft metals, it is usually better to have a slightly less sharp bit. A dull bit is a lot less likely to dig in and snag. been there done that.

If you are sawing aluminum there is some nice stuff out ther called "Alumicut" it is some kind of wierd smelling stuff that is supposed to be non toxic. It really keeps the blade or cutter from "loading up". It makes a tremendous difference in sawing drilling and filing. Absolutely fabulous stuff. I have used it for many years. In a pinch a liberal application of WD-40 or bees wax on the blade will also work. The big trick is to keep the aluminum from sticking to and loading up the cutting teeth.

                                                                 The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #32 on: October 30, 2006, 12:01:55 PM »

Cut a copper pipe with one yesterday. Took about 5 secopnds. Made a nice ground rod.

You must be cutting girly-man copper. Get some real copper and report back.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #33 on: October 30, 2006, 12:05:46 PM »

I took a sledge hammer and drove the copper pipe 8 feet into the ground. Does that qualify as real?
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #34 on: October 30, 2006, 12:28:07 PM »

home depot sells a nice 8 foot rod copper clad and drives well. I used a pair of them for electrical service.
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #35 on: October 30, 2006, 12:35:12 PM »

I took a sledge hammer and drove the copper pipe 8 feet into the ground. Does that qualify as real?


Screw a sledge hammer.  I now use a Hilti TE45 mongo hammer drill! Takes about 30 sec to sink a ground rod with no major effort!!
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« Reply #36 on: October 30, 2006, 12:48:13 PM »

Hilti is an interesting drill. My brother has one that I use once in a while.
It goes through concrete like soft wood. A lot easier than the big hammer
and you don't have to worry about nailing the XYL holding the rod
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #37 on: October 30, 2006, 01:14:43 PM »

Ah, you are using the little Hilti. Talk to me when you've used one that runs off 3-phase power, stands 5 feet tall and weighs several hundred pounds.
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K1JJ
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« Reply #38 on: October 30, 2006, 01:37:14 PM »

Ah, you are using the little Hilti. Talk to me when you've used one that runs off 3-phase power, stands 5 feet tall and weighs several hundred pounds.

Do they include the 40 pound gut to lay over the top?

BTW, real men use steam turbine nuclear powered Hilti's.
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Use an "AM Courtesy Filter" to limit transmit audio bandwidth  +-4.5 KHz, +-6.0 KHz or +-8.0 KHz when needed.  Easily done in DSP.

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There's nothing like an old dog.
Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #39 on: October 30, 2006, 01:56:59 PM »

That big Hilti I used was for boring holes in the ground. So no need to hold it. Had its own stand. Sure was fun though.
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« Reply #40 on: October 30, 2006, 03:01:43 PM »

I took a sledge hammer and drove the copper pipe 8 feet into the ground. Does that qualify as real?

Now your copper is full of tiny cracks that you can't see. If you get a direct strike you'll be blown to Hades.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #41 on: October 30, 2006, 03:12:20 PM »

The tiny cracks will allow the dirt and moisture to creep in, thus increasing the surface contact area and makiing a lower resistance ground connection. See, I had it all planned out.

Actually, it's a ground for a receiving antenna system that's ground mounted, so hopefully, lightning won't be a part of the mix.
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« Reply #42 on: November 02, 2006, 02:36:00 PM »

So you used an 8 foot long solid copper pipe for a ground for a receiving antenna? Wow. I'm amazed that your happy with a PT cruiser.
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kc2ifr
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« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2006, 02:54:38 PM »

I gotta stick up for Steve on this one.......I gotta PT Cruiser too......ground rod or no ground rod.........just turbo charged!
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« Reply #44 on: November 02, 2006, 02:58:23 PM »

Does the turbo build up excessive static?
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #45 on: November 02, 2006, 03:50:20 PM »

One's a car and one's a ground rod. I don't get the connection.
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W2VW
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« Reply #46 on: November 02, 2006, 03:59:11 PM »

Overkill.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #47 on: November 02, 2006, 05:02:55 PM »

Could be. But the better the ground on the receive antenna, the less chance for noise coupling onto the feedline. The RX antenna is a low noise, directional ant, so I don't want to defeat thant with a crappy ground.

I already had the pipe. It came with the house. As did a bumch of mast and other antenna material. Gotta like that.
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kc2ifr
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« Reply #48 on: November 02, 2006, 05:43:00 PM »

Quote
One's a car and one's a ground rod. I don't get the connection.

Thats the point Steve..... Tongue
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