Hi Ralph,
I've been experimenting with lantern chimneys for 813's here. Got one modulated by a pair called the "Blown 813's". Still busy wiring it, maybe 90% finsihed now.
As you said, the only difference on yours is the tapered top. The air will not hug the top of the tube and continue the same rate of air flow moving past the top... no big deal. It's really a matter of degree. If you are moving ample air past the tube in the first place, a not-so-perfect chimney will not make much difference in overall cooling. Also depends upon how hard you beat it. Heck, some amlifiers don't use much air at all... just a fan across the glass and they survive.
BTW, my 813 chimneys, by Leitz, do have the tapered top. But I had to look at many to find them. About $5 each.
Don't worry about the tapered top air flow at all. As long as the glass hugs the tube in a reasonable manner and there is a good, balanced air coming out of the top, it's FB.
Big finned heat caps for the plate caps helps too.
BTW, notice the air holes cut in the chassis. This makes a HUGE diffence in air flow. I do the same thing for my 4-1000A's. It increases air flow perhaps 200% over using just the air holes in the socket. There appears to still be ample flow through the pin area, dispite the altered air re-routing. The fan seems to simply push much more air with less restriction. I use about twelve, 1/2" holes in a circle, right to the edge of the glass chimney on all of my projects.
73,
Tom, K1JJ
Big Pics - these are early pictures - most of the work is finished at this point -
http://home.comcast.net/~k1jj/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2536768.htmlhttp://home.comcast.net/~k1jj/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2536765.html4X1 X 833'A's - notice the air holes:
http://home.comcast.net/~k1jj/wsb/media/254120/site1099.jpgBlown 813 X 813's: