Converting a ranger 2 power supply to solid state.

[w1cjf]

I am looking to solid state the power supply in my ranger 2... I was wondering if anyone knew the part number that was just drop into the tube sockets... I don't mind making them with octal plugs and diodes but if I could just purchase something to drop in that would be great. Thanks

W1CJF

[W1NB]

For the 5R4 it depends on the manufacturer. Some just label it as a 5R4 solid state, some use SSR-01. Yellowjacket uses YJR. Weber makes solid state replacements for both the 6AX5 and 5R4: https://www.tedweber.com/gadgets/copper-cap-rectifiers/

[w4bfs]

of course be wary of higher voltages with solid state rectumblasters

[W4AMV]

Yes sir. I would hesitate to do it. However, get yourself a bucker transformer as the nominal line is 115V. By the time your go to SS without adding the appropriate dropping R's to emulate the tube rectifier, your HV value might be problematic.

73' Alan

[W2JBL]

    I bought a Ranger-I last year and solid stated the power supplies by soldering strings of 1N4007 diodes to the rectifier tube sockets. New filter caps had been installed by the previous owner. My line voltage hovers around 125 volts. I run the rig at full power- about 50 watts out. To date there has been no explosion of sparks or a blinding arc-flash as the "dangerously higher voltages" (run away! hide! duck and cover!) destroy the rig. I have had similar good results with a variety of boat anchors, including all of my Collins amateur and military gear for some 40+ years. No tube filament failures either. I must be doing something wrong that I'm not scared of my delicate boatanchors...

[w4bfs]

    I bought a Ranger-I last year and solid stated the power supplies by soldering strings of 1N4007 diodes to the rectifier tube sockets. New filter caps had been installed by the previous owner. My line voltage hovers around 125 volts. I run the rig at full power- about 50 watts out. To date there has been no explosion of sparks or a blinding arc-flash as the "dangerously higher voltages" (run away! hide! duck and cover!) destroy the rig. I have had similar good results with a variety of boat anchors, including all of my Collins amateur and military gear for some 40+ years. No tube filament failures either. I must be doing something wrong that I'm not scared of my delicate boatanchors...

a quick question - did you replace the stock 4W wire wound drive control pot?  compare its dissipation in a solid state power supply providing +375V vs stock +300V unless other R are changed. those are hard to find and most user have gone to a series pass transistor/fet circuit.  another latient victim is the function switch unless step start is added.  there are more concerns

[w1cjf]

thanks all... I want to get this thing up and running.. has all original tubes but i know i will need to change out the resistor in the vfo.. The transmitter is in good shape the case but has some flaking and on the front of the vfo. I brought it up on a variac with no issues so far but all original[ so ill need to do caps and all those goodies. I brought my last valiant to chuck and it ran great but i paid 50$ for this and going to try to get it up running on my own and on the air.

[DMOD]

thanks all... I want to get this thing up and running.. has all original tubes but i know i will need to change out the resistor in the vfo.. The transmitter is in good shape the case but has some flaking and on the front of the vfo. I brought it up on a variac with no issues so far but all original[ so ill need to do caps and all those goodies. I brought my last valiant to chuck and it ran great but i paid 50$ for this and going to try to get it up running on my own and on the air.

Here are the modifications I use when upgrading a Ranger ii.

Phil