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Gonset G66B power cord




 
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November 20, 2018, 07:25:48 PM *
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Author Topic: Gonset G66B power cord  (Read 766 times)
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N9AXl
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« on: October 19, 2018, 12:52:08 PM »

I have a Gonset G66B with the matching power supply marked "12V" on the back. As I understand the schematic simply rewiring the power plug lets this be used on 115VAC.  The fused cord goes to pins 4 and 5 with jumpers from 7 to 8 and 3 to 12. Can anyone confirm that I am understanding this correctly?  I'm having to make a new power cord for this with 12 gauge wire and one of the 1950s style almenco fused plugs.  Seems fairly straighforward -- after I, of course, removed the various "enhancements" someone put into the receiver.
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2018, 12:28:08 AM »

I presume you have the power supply shown here.



This is the schematic for the supply.



And here are the details for wiring the connector.



Hope this is what you need, if not let me know.
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Mike KE0ZU

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N9AXl
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2018, 09:29:45 AM »

Yes. Perfect. This confirms what I have. I assume the cables off the back on the b+ and the mute are what you are using with the g77 transmitter in lieu of the original cables.  Haven't gotten that yet or the modulator.
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2018, 08:10:38 PM »

Yes you're rite, needless to say I had to make up a set of cables.    You'll find when you get the transmitter and modulator these are nice little AM rigs.   

I've had a couple sets and an extra receiver or two over the years.   HERE are some pics.
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Mike KE0ZU

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N9AXl
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« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2018, 09:27:22 PM »

Looks good. I did figure out that 12 gauge wire doesnt work with the fused plug. I will have to use regular line cord.
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n1ps
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Zorch!


« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2018, 08:16:43 PM »

I cannot over state how important it is to at least use a polarized AC plug if not a grounded plug.  Remove the fuse in the neutral side.  You can add a fuse for the switched hot side in the power supply using a snap in holder. 

For AC, 12 gauge wire would be overkill.  #16 will work fine.

IIRC Gonset stamped the chassis either 6V or 12V, which was about the filament wiring.

Hope this helps...

Peter
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N9AXl
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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2018, 09:26:02 PM »

Right now I am setting this up with the original configuration of the plug with dual fuses. Once I know this works I'll worry about making a modification. I realize that doing what you suggest matters. I also run this using an isolation transformer.
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2018, 10:56:15 PM »

Although I use a 3 wire cord for the receiver, I've never heard of a catastrophic transformer failure in one of these units in the last 60 years or so.

The transmitter power supply however, does use the old TV cheater cord for power.   No provisions to adapt a 3 wire cord, so ground must be improvised.



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Mike KE0ZU

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N3GTE
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« Reply #8 on: October 25, 2018, 08:31:04 PM »

Hi Mike,
Tnx for posting the pics. I picked up the twins w/ rx ps and the tx modulator/p/s. At the time I didn't realize that mod/ps was a 12v vibrator job and doesn't have provision for 120vac operation.

'AXI  when you are looking the mod/ps be sure you get one that matches your power source. Seems that 120v unit will do 120v and 12vdc but 12v unit will only do 12vdc.

GL
Terry N3GTE
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N9AXl
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« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2018, 08:48:12 PM »

Tnx.  I just have the receiver so it's just a matter of rewiring the plug. If I get the ps/modulator I have a 35amp 12vdc samlex supply so no problem if I get the 12 volt supply. I
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N9AXl
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« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2018, 12:05:36 PM »

I wired this all up but no joy. No power to the unit. I have a bad ps for this. The back of the ps says D1065 which I've found no reference to.  Too bad I can't use the 12 volt vibrator unit installed in this.
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2018, 03:56:31 PM »

Maybe the ON/OFF sw on the front panel is bad, or some wiring fault in the radio/power supply?

Did you check continuity of the transformer, and all the inductor windings?  
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Mike KE0ZU

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N9AXl
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« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2018, 07:32:01 PM »

That's my next step. 
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Opcom
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« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2018, 07:44:18 PM »

I have a few vibrator power transformers. If you need one and know the frequency, voltage, and current required, drop me a line. Ahh yes some vibes are not 60Hz but the transf. works on 60 and the vibrator's odd 90 or 100, etc..

If I may make a suggestion in case of mobile use of these kind of power-hungry radios, sometimes the supplied/original wire for 12V or 6V is really not big enough to prevent a 1V drop or more, and a larger gauge won't fit the Jones plug.

It will work well to use the size called for at the connector, but only for a few inches of pigtail, then use something like a crimp-on butt-splice, which you then solder to make it good, to transition to a larger size like 10 or 8 for the run to both the (+) and (-) sides of the battery. I usually trim off the plastic insulation of the butt splice because it will melt when soldering, and then apply a couple layers of electrical tape and a layer of heat shrink tubing to make it look nice and be safe. I need not mention always putting the fuse or "DC" magnetic breaker right at the battery.
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Radio Candelstein - Flagship Station of the NRK Radio Network.
N3GTE
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« Reply #14 on: October 26, 2018, 08:26:39 PM »

If it's any help I just fired up my G-66B for the first time, it has the 12vdc (3098) only power supply. @12v it's hauling down abt 4amps the hv output is 215vdc.

Terry
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N9AXl
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« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2018, 09:51:03 PM »

Thanks.
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Patrick J. / KD5OEI
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« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2018, 12:41:58 AM »

Ahh receiver - thought it was a power-hungry transceiver!
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Radio Candelstein - Flagship Station of the NRK Radio Network.
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