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Author Topic: IXDD614 pin out  (Read 9384 times)
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N1XBM
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« on: July 24, 2018, 08:18:11 PM »

I am following the 24 fet build on the class e site. On the schematic there is no pin designation for the IXDD614. I can look up how to identify the pins on the package and the pictures are hard to tell whats going where. Can anyone clear this up for me?
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steve_qix
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« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2018, 10:53:38 PM »

Hopefully this will help - sorry about that.




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High Power, Broadcast Audio and Low Cost?  Check out the class E web site at: http://www.classeradio.org
N1XBM
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2018, 08:51:10 AM »

Thank you Grin
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N1XBM
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2018, 09:59:15 PM »

Looks like I need to get my hands on a D650 solder gun. My 100 watt rat shack isn't cutting the mustard in the heat department soldering to the ground bus....
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steve_qix
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2018, 10:41:27 PM »

definitely lift the ground bus away from the heat sink (it only has to be slightly away).  Even with a real big soldering gun, if that copper bus is tight against the heat sink, it will be virtually impossible to solder.
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High Power, Broadcast Audio and Low Cost?  Check out the class E web site at: http://www.classeradio.org
N1XBM
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2018, 11:58:18 AM »

Steve,

I'm borrowing a big gun from Larry until I can purchase one of my own at a fester. So far its doing the trick just fine, I've been able to secure parts to the ground bus now. I just leave two screws in and lift the bus using some thin slats of wood. So far so good.
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n1ps
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2018, 07:53:02 PM »

Cool. you are making progress.  Also cleaning the copper makes a difference.
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WD5JKO
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« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2018, 09:12:43 AM »

definitely lift the ground bus away from the heat sink (it only has to be slightly away).  Even with a real big soldering gun, if that copper bus is tight against the heat sink, it will be virtually impossible to solder.

  I service a lot of commercial Class E stuff (13.56Mhz 3KWRF out). One trick I use is to warm up the heatsink with hot air before and during soldering the power components in or off the PCB. I have a heat gun suspended overhead, adjustable height from 6" to 18" over the item to be repaired. Sometimes if the amplifier works, but is sick, I let it run without water cooling till the thermal OT sensor kicks in. That brings the temperature up to about 65 degrees Celsius. Then quickly move it over to the rework table to pull the power devices. Using heat allows a smaller soldering iron to be used, and reduces the thermal stress to the semiconductors.

Jim
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N1XBM
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2018, 10:05:11 PM »

Thanks for all of the tips guys! Right now I am spending a little time before bed soldering components to the ground bus. I have almost all of the parts I need to finish the RF deck. I need to source load and tuning capacitor still.

I'll try to post a picture with an update soon, my rig will not be a work of art. Just going for functionality and servicabilty.
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