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My ART13




 
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Author Topic: My ART13  (Read 2159 times)
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w1vtp
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« on: April 05, 2018, 06:26:53 PM »

OK, OK, The pressure's on. When am I going to get off my duff and get one of these projects going?  I believe this ART13 just needs to have the correct voltage applied and There is a 500pF cap to be placed across the output and it would be ready for RF service

Al


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KB2WIG
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« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2018, 07:42:06 PM »




...and you have  at least one connector.

klc
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Jim/WA2MER
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« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2018, 08:39:37 PM »

C'mon Al, get moving! I finally finished my power supply, made up a cable, and powered it up last Friday evening. Mine needs 800 pF to load up on 80 Meters; I first tried 500 pF but that didn't cut it. I cleaned and lubed up the autotune mechanism. My issue right now is that the audio sounds like crap, but I don't know if that's normal crappy audio, or if something is amiss. I will play with it some more over the weekend. Have fun with yours, it's a worthwhile project.

73,
Jim
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Since you have to die anyway, you might as well die from something you like.
KE5YTV
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« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2018, 09:36:07 PM »

Hi Jim,

Did you make a schematic of your P/S or did you find one that you used?

73,
Mike/KE5YTV
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Mike
KE5YTV  Dallas, TX
"The longest trip begins with a stop at the ATM."
Jim/WA2MER
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« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2018, 09:55:10 PM »

Hey Mike:

I built the one in ER 257 (Oct. 2010), with minor modifications. It provides 1100V, 400V, and 28V. My mods included using an open frame 28V linear supply I bought for $20 instead of building one up from scratch, and correcting a wiring error on the schematic in the original article (how the 28V relay contacts are wired). I'm happy with it.

Jim
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Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess.
Since you have to die anyway, you might as well die from something you like.
AJ1G
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« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2018, 05:38:10 AM »

Looks good Al! I believe you have the one connector needed to connect to the DY-17A dyno or a homebrew power supply. 

Jim re the crappy audio - try feeding in some line level audio through an EQ and a good dynamic mic with the mic switch in the  DYNAMIC position.  This switch is hidden behind the tune up setting circuit card along with a mic gain control.  I use a Shure AC powered EQ which works just fine.  I also have a cheap RS 5 band battery powered EQ that works fine with my DX-40 and Command Sets, but suffers from severe RFI when used with the ART-13.

Also, check to see if you have soft 811s.  One of mine recently apparently went soft, scope trace showed only about 50% negative peaks,  see the ART-13 Modulation Situation posting over in the Technical threads.  Everything looking and sounding much better with a pair of 572Bs subbed in for the 811s which I do not have spares for.  Plug and play swap.
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Chris, AJ1G
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Jim/WA2MER
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« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2018, 06:59:44 AM »

Hi Chris:

Thanx for the suggestions. I saw your thread about your audio issues back when you first posted it, so after work this afternoon I plan to swap out the 811s with a new pair that I have in stock. As for feeding in line level audio, all I'm equipped to do right now is feed mic audio through a preamp into the radio, which I've done with a D-104 and a Shure 444D, with pretty much the same results. The audio is anemic and harsh, much more so than I would expect from even a stock military radio. I'll swap out the 811s, and then have a careful look on the scope to see what's going on.

73,
Jim
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w1vtp
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« Reply #7 on: April 06, 2018, 08:04:42 AM »

Hi Chris:

Thanx for the suggestions. I saw your thread about your audio issues back when you first posted it, so after work this afternoon I plan to swap out the 811s with a new pair that I have in stock. As for feeding in line level audio, all I'm equipped to do right now is feed mic audio through a preamp into the radio, which I've done with a D-104 and a Shure 444D, with pretty much the same results. The audio is anemic and harsh, much more so than I would expect from even a stock military radio. I'll swap out the 811s, and then have a careful look on the scope to see what's going on.

73,
Jim

Timmy HLR has done something with his ART13.  The audio is quite respectable - not HIFI but very respectable - a quality one would expect from a HLR  ART13.  Someone should ping him about what he did.  I do have the full schematic. Perhaps I'll take a quick look at the circuit. On the D104: I assume the input Z is >5 meg ohms.  Interesting about the loading cap.  I think I have what it takes to meet that requirement.

Al
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Jim/WA2MER
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« Reply #8 on: April 06, 2018, 12:05:09 PM »

Update on my ART-13 audio issue: I solved it. Cause: inattention to detail. Resolution: I turned off the phantom power coming from the mic preamp. The radio now sounds like a stock ART-13 should sound. If I find the time to get the radio off the bench and set up, I'll try to get it on the air sometime this weekend.

Al, I found a tuning condenser from a 1930s Silvertone radio that had been thoroughly trashed. It's a three-section variable that measures 465mmF/section. I paralleled two sections and found the sweet spot around 800mmF. Before using the variable, I tried a 500mmF doorknob, and then a 1000mmF doorknob, neither of which got me more than 65W out. I'm now getting 85W out using 1100V on the 813. The final loads to the proper current, but I'm not sure of the condition of the 813 and I don't have another one to try. As to whether I should be getting at least 100W out, I'm not going to chase after the additional 0.7dB. It's a 100W-class radio, and 85W is plenty good enough for me.

Depending on how others are running their ART-13s with respect to plate voltage, you'll hear anything from 100W to 175W out from the thing. I'm not interested in squeezing every last watt out of mine, so I kept the plate voltage near the design value.  Look for me on the AM Carrier or AWA net on Sunday. I hope you'll find the time to get yours up and running.

Jim
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Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess.
Since you have to die anyway, you might as well die from something you like.
W6TOM
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« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2018, 09:48:58 PM »

   I have an ACT which is the predecessor to the ART-13, and also an ART-13. I get around 140 watts out of both on 80 meters but much less on 40 meters. I have not had to put any capacitance across the output and it doesn't appear the transmitter has been altered. I had another ART-13 and got about the same output from it also without alteration.

   I use an amplified D-104 and set the gain for best modulation, I also use that same D-104 for both the ACT and ART-13. I get good audio reports and did try a T-17 carbon mic which everyone said was awful. I had an issue with one of the transmitters, I would loose audio after it had warmed up, I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in the speech amp, that solved that issue. Wish I had known about the audio mods that would have been a good time to do that too.

    I run both off a dynamotor with a PP-1104 military power supply set for 29 volts and even AMPZILLA groans a bit when I key the transmitter.

     I have it taken apart and moved out of the way for now because I need the space.


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W2JBL
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« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2018, 05:35:58 PM »

Al- Good luck with yours. Hope to hear it on soon. Just recently got my ART-13 back on the after moving it out of my mother's house.There's a new HV supply giving about 1600 volts too. I have 572B's in the modulator and get about 200 watts out. Been running it at that power for years with no issues. I had Heising around the mod transformer though, and need to get that hooked up again. Here's some simple audio mods I did that made a big improvement, especially to the high frequency response: Remove C-205, C-209, C-210. Change C-207 to .1 MF. Change C-202 and C-204 to 100 or 220 MF. I load the PA with a 3 section BC condenser mounted into the blank panel for the LF VFO module. For 160 I run an outboard and slightly modified ART-13 HF PTO with a 1625 in place of the 837 and a parallel tuned circuit in the plate lead to the 1625. This couples through a .01 cap and two feet of RG-62 to the point where the LF PTO connects to the insulator on the mainframe. The outboard PTO gets power and control from the Jones socket for the LF unit. I love this transmitter and have had it on for nearly 20 years. it's original and unrestored.


* ART-13 AND S-LINE STATION.jpg (825.63 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 183 times.)
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