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Viking I & Viking II Bones




 
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Author Topic: Viking I & Viking II Bones  (Read 1490 times)
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WA1HZK
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« on: February 19, 2018, 06:25:31 PM »

I'm cleaning up the cellar and came across two projects. I have a viking I, no tubes cabinet or meter and a Viking II that seems complete. Plugged that in and the tubes lit. The schematic looks kinda simple. What's it going to take to make this old girl sound good? Has anyone published any mods Yet? Somewhere I have some crystals but can't remember where. That happens a lot. Anyway just asking if there are any obvious things that need doing. When I do this I'll write it up and add it to East Coast Sound where my articles on the Valiant and Ranger are.

The Vikong I seems like an interesting one too. Looks like a lot of post WWII parts in that design. I do remember buying a final for that one, like everything else, need some crystals of find some VFO's. Anybody got any VFO's they want to trade for KW transmitter parts? I have enough iron here to build a dozen really big rigs.

Keith
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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2018, 11:17:31 PM »

There are a lot of mods for those. Most involve improvements to the modulator, esp. since it is AB2 and a little better drive helps it. Where tubes are changed or 9-pin tubes added, some people have mounted them on brackets under the chassis rather than drill or enlarge holes from 7-pin. Some research will turn them up.
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« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2018, 11:07:00 AM »



Vikong 1 ...... sounds like Viking with a 3-500 in it .... ..

KLC
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WA1HZK
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« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2018, 11:22:21 AM »

If you know mw, you know that could happen...... my DX-100 sprouted four 833-c's.
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« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2018, 11:52:58 AM »

Here's the audio mod I got in the Viking 1 Keith!

This and solid stating the power supplies is the usual routine.

One of these days I'll document and post the 4X150A/ 4CX250B final substitution.

http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/viking2.htm
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WA1HZK
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« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2018, 01:27:09 PM »

Thanks Bud
I have several stations kicking around in the cellar and I want to get them running for AM "Loaners"
Getting to the point of making sure this stuff finds homes before I go home.
Ya know what I mean.
Smiley
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2018, 02:10:18 PM »

Here's another mod that worked out quit well Keith.

http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/scrnmod.htm

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WA1HZK
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« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2018, 02:38:28 PM »

That's another good idea for any 100 watt class tube AM transmitter.
Hmmmmm, My Viking one doesn't have a cabinet anyway. I wonder how it would look with a 813 final?
Kinda pissa I bet.
KC
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« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2018, 03:33:41 PM »

813..... Hmmmm...... how well does that work at 710VDC B+ ..... 300VDC Screen?
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WA1HZK
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« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2018, 03:44:27 PM »

We have the technology. We can upgrade him. Increase his power. Make him glow in the dark.
In short, give him the blue pill of added electrons!
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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2018, 03:47:58 PM »


813??  Yeah that would work....  BUT     Stuff an 810 in there and get 2 X the POWA out... youl be swinging the monkey and shakin the bacon!


KLC


Hmmmm  I've got a few 8000s in stock.
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WA1HZK
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2018, 04:30:55 PM »

Yup
I'm not afaid to build something stupid. I probably have an ART-13 Mod transformer around here somewhere!
That would be fun. Bring back some Frankin-Rigs!
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« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2018, 02:48:39 AM »

I've got a basket case V 1 knocking around here that I contemplate modding up from time to time. Only thing is to what? Outboarding the modulator would free up quite a bit of real estate for larger iron, but the output tank? That roller inductor can be finicky at 100w out. Maybe would be worth 150w tops if everything was super clean? Possibly a pair of 4D32's, but it seems a bit much to ask.

Phil
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WA1HZK
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« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2018, 11:33:03 AM »

The whole thing would have to be classified as fun.
Perhaps removing the roller and putting regular parts in for a 1, 2. or 3 bander.
I have 75 covered. I would probably take the boned rig and make a one bander out of it. The complete one would make someone a nice rig still.
Just needs a modern VFO or some surplus DDS from E-Bay.
KC
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« Reply #14 on: February 25, 2018, 10:04:45 AM »

Consider a 4CX250 and a beefy mod iron. Solid state the HV  pull those rectifiers and that will make room for the mod iron.  The 807's would be put where the rectifiers were.

Anyway please don't part it out

Al
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« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2018, 10:46:29 AM »

Never part out a rig that can be brought back. I had a collection of amps. Two SSB amps that had some good parts but were wired with zip cord. One KW AM rig that had a B&W output and air caps. The rig is still there but that coil is gone and there is room for a better one and vacuum cap. But even the power supply for that one was really bad. I parted the PS and still have the RF & mod decks. That one has possibilities. The issue is always getting 50 ohm RF from the driver rig into the tube grids. The 833's were a stinker to get enough drive, This time I'm playing with tubes that have a little more gain. Fun stuff. Now I just need to sell some swill so i can get a few pieces I need. I'm really just getting my shop rolling again as I was gone for almost 6 years.

I't not been that great on 75 this winter. When the sun goes down the band goes long and everyone screams "But we have been here for three hours". I guess we forget that the sun jams us all together on the same channels. Anyone know where we are on the sunspot cycle? I have not been following that. It would be nice to be on ten meters AM again with 10 watts hitting Europe.
Keith
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« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2018, 11:26:22 AM »

Consider a 4CX250 and a beefy mod iron. Solid state the HV  pull those rectifiers and that will make room for the mod iron.  The 807's would be put where the rectifiers were.

Anyway please don't part it out

Al

I have a V2, and some 4cx250B,R and 8930s.

I saw in an archived post someone said they where going to document this mod.

Before reinventing the horse, did anyone?

--Shane
KD6VXI
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