Warning: Creating default object from empty value in /homepages/11/d132647312/htdocs/Amfone/mkportal/include/SMF/smf_out.php on line 47
New project - Viking Ranger




 
The AM Forum
November 21, 2017, 03:15:58 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Calendar Links Staff List Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: New project - Viking Ranger  (Read 688 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
KJ4OLL
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 141


« on: October 28, 2017, 03:33:29 PM »

Hi,
I have officially given up on trying to fix the 32V-2, will have to give it to an experienced 32V-x
person to repair.

Had been walking by this Viking Ranger on the shelf of the local surplus place for months, no interest, as the 32V-2 was working.

Today I went to the surplus place w/ hand tools, took the case off. I expected to find that previous owner(s) had done all kinds of evil.
Surprised to find that it appears untouched inside.

I have never brought anything like this back to life.

Fortunately, unlike the 32V-2, this appears easy to work on, as everything is out in the open.
And the best part for me is that Google finds lots of web sites where people have documented working on the Viking Ranger, as opposed to the 32V-2, which Google finds nothing about repairs and restorations. (Except “send it to Howard”), which I might do after I get the Ranger on the air.

Anyway, this is what I plan to start with:
- Find some way to clean off the dust & dirt, not sure if a hose & soapy water is OK, or just compressed air, or??
- Make a list of all the paper and electrolytics, place an order w/ Mouser for new caps.
- Clean the tube sockets and wafer switches.
- Test the tubes, replace as required

What else should I do before powering it up?
Thanks and 73
Frank
KJ4OLL


* rangerchassistop.jpg (1612 KB, 2216x1602 - viewed 118 times.)

* rangerunder.jpg (2370.85 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 102 times.)

* ranger_front.jpg (2222.54 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 88 times.)
Logged
KB2WIG
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4066



« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2017, 04:16:54 PM »



Replace the Chernoble resistor.

Replace pwr cord with a 3 prong. Add inline fuse.



That should start things.


KLC
Logged

What? Me worry?
WA5VGO
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 130


« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2017, 06:15:12 PM »

Clean the chassis with GoJo and a cloth. Knock the rust off of the transformers and paint with satin black.
Logged
kc4umo
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 180


WWW
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2017, 09:21:13 PM »

I agree with what both gentlemen said above.
Especially that 18k resistor in the vfo. You have to remove the front panel to get inside the vfo. Bit of a pain but that is how it goes. While in the vfo check all the components so you do not have to go back in there. Make sure you sit the rig on its rear and lift the front panel straight up so you do not break the phenolic insulator on the end of the vfo shaft.

These rigs are fun and easy to work on. I have a thread located here on the ranger I and Viking II I just picked up
http://amfone.net/Amforum/index.php?topic=43096.0

 
Logged

K1JJ
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7514


"Let's go sailing, Tommy!" - Yaz


« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2017, 09:59:19 PM »

Hi Frank,

OK on the Ranger project.  I've owned at least three of them over the years. It was my first transmitter as a Novice in 1964. If you get one that is in reasonable condition, they are certainly fun, and easy to work on - with nice access to parts top and bottom. That is a big part of enjoying the work.  Get thru the VFO hassle and you should be on the road to getting it going.

It appears on yours that someone added a PTT relay mod in the usual place. IIRC, the Ranger II has one stock and the Ranger did not...

Getting all the rust and oxidation cleaned up as well as the tube sockets and switches cleaned will be very important as you already mentioned.  Your shotgun approach to replacing all the electrolytic and paper caps is smart.  Leaky and intermittent caps can be some of the hardest things to troubleshoot, so this will make it easier in the end.

The best of luck with it and stick with the goal.  

As for the 32V-2, if I lived nearby I would stop over and give you a hand with it.  I'll bet after you get the Ranger running right you will find the 32V-2 will be easier with your newfound confidence and experience.

I once learned a valuable lesson from the Apeman/VW/APE.  We were in 12" of snow trying to haul an 800 pound mod transformer up the steps and into my shack. It was a nightmare and it was dark. He kept his good humor and said, "It's just a matter of attitude." He was right and the job went easy after that.  Getting these old rigs going again really is a matter of attitude when the going gets tough.

T
 
Logged

“Remember, remember, this is now, and now, and now. Live it, feel it, cling to it. I want to become acutely aware of all I’ve taken for granted.”  -  Sylvia Plath

A Night in Tunisia:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baMsQeQpUvw
N1BCG
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 369


« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2017, 11:01:55 PM »

You can probably change the VFO resistor without removing the front panel since it can be accessed via the left side facing the rear. Surgical forceps are extremely useful for removing and replacing the resistor.

Be ULTRA careful not to put pressure (pull or push) on the front panel as that can cause the VFO shaft coupling to break. Many VFO enclosures have added brackets between them and the front panel as a brace (see pic). Yours does not, so great care is needed.

Some find it difficult to replace the VFO cover, but I've had success by placing it gently back in place, and with gentle and even downward pressure, slowly turning each band calibration shaft slowly until you feel the "click".


* IMG_6162.JPG (1996.54 KB, 3024x4032 - viewed 58 times.)
Logged
MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 258



« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2017, 11:43:42 PM »

This must be New Ranger Owner week, as I also picked up a ranger from Dave Schulman's auction last friday.    I'm going to be watching this thread.

As for how to proceed, I'd first pull all the tubes, take some good pics of the under chassis around the transformers, remove them, remove the rust best as possible, re-paint them, and set aside.  

I'd remove the front panel, and thoroughly clean the main chassis scrubbing with brushes and soap and water, and do a final rinse with some distilled water from the grocery. Be careful around the final tank coil It looks fairly delicate.

Don't know what you have for shop equipment, but if you have a compressor I'd get one of the small hand held sand blast guns from HF and use it to remove the rust on the transformers.  The same could be done for the rusted meter cover.

An engine cleaning gun like the one in the pic, would be a good way to clean the chassis using some soap and water along with the compressed air.   As mentioned before, do your final rinse with a couple gallons of distilled water from the grocery.  Blow dry, and set out in the sun for a day or two.    Tektronix, the scope people, washed virtually everything that came into their service  centers.

Reinstall the transformers and proceed from there.   Clean good looking radios are much nicer to work on.



* TekWash1.jpg (80.98 KB, 740x599 - viewed 58 times.)
Logged
KC4VWU
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 596


« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2017, 01:02:53 AM »

Before you get knee deep into it, I'd do a preliminary quick cleaning making sure all the controls rotate freely, then I'd check the toobs and replace all the electrolytics underneath. Then, it's time to see what you've got before you go any further. You will, however, have quite a bit more to do as the others have stated. Just go slow and don't get too greedy. Other than being poorly stored, it looks pretty much unmolested.

OOOps, almost forgot to mention, you need to take the normal precautions when firing it up for the checkout. Variac, current limiting / monitoring... you know. Just making sure you know.   
Logged
Dave K6XYZ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 81



« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2017, 12:09:06 AM »

Hi Frank.....
No need to remove the front panel.
Looking aft on the chassis....on the left side of the vfo the keyer with the PTT relay mounted on it can be unbolted and swing it out of the way.
Then remove the screws in the vertical side of the vfo housing and a couple of nuts under the chassis and the side of the housing comes right off...no sweat.
Then locate the resistor and replace it with a 18k 10 watt wire wound tub (cement) resistor.
Be sure to mount it inside the vfo compartment because it helps keep bring up the temperature and keeps it there for best stability of the vfo.
I've done 3 of them so far and if you search for it....you will find some pix that guys have posted on just how to do this.
This is a hellova lot easier than taking that front panel off....something you just don't want to do unless you absolutely have to!!
Logged
WZ1M
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 313


« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2017, 04:54:40 AM »

Just my two cents. Dont waste your time doing anything. The modulation transformer in these Rangers are a piece of work and should be tested to insure it is ok before you proceed with cleaning and replacing. If it is ok, then, have at the rest of the project.
Regards,
TRS
Gary
Logged
KJ4OLL
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 141


« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2017, 12:18:47 PM »

Thanks for all the tips and advice!
Looks like a good Winter project for me.

Gary - Even if the mod iron tests OK today, I might send it for a rewind anyway, just because....
Frank
KJ4OLL
Logged
KB2WIG
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4066



« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2017, 02:30:49 PM »



Ttron talked of shoe horning a bigger mod transformer in the beast.


KLC
Logged

What? Me worry?
WZ1M
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 313


« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2017, 03:32:09 AM »

Frank:
I can make the mod iron better than ever so you wont have to "Shoe Horn" a replacement. Not to many mod irons around with a feedback winding.
Regards,
Gary
Logged
KD6VXI
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1619

Making Amplitude Modulation GREAT Again!


« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2017, 09:29:48 AM »

I've purchased from Gary before.  Great transformers and a straight up guy.

--Shane
KD6VXI
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

AMfone - Dedicated to Amplitude Modulation on the Amateur Radio Bands
 AMfone © 2001-2015
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.102 seconds with 18 queries.