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Pair of Johnson transmitters.




 
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Author Topic: Pair of Johnson transmitters.  (Read 3326 times)
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KE5YTV
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« Reply #25 on: September 06, 2017, 12:44:31 PM »

Thanks for taking the time to make and post the videos. I've got a few Johnson's on the restoration shelf including a Ranger 1 & 2. It's always good to get a few hints and kinks.
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Mike
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kc4umo
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« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2017, 09:34:34 PM »

Thank you Mike. It is my pleasure to do the videos.  I am far from being an expert, just an average person. I really do like learning things and sharing what I have.

Hope to see some progress on your restores.
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kc4umo
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« Reply #27 on: October 21, 2017, 08:54:45 PM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.


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K9PNP
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« Reply #28 on: October 24, 2017, 01:23:01 PM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Your 122 looks better than mine and so does your V2.  As I have been told before:  Nobody cares a whole lot what your rig looks like [except you] as long as it sounds good.  I did do a minor rebuild on the audio chain on the V2 a few years ago which improved the audio quality somewhat.  Found a 5 watt variable resistor to replace the drive control, believe it was from Mouser.  Only issue was size, but it's doable.  Not really good at physical restoration any more; get up and go is just not there as much any more.
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73,  Mitch

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« Reply #29 on: October 24, 2017, 07:40:58 PM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Your 122 looks better than mine and so does your V2.  As I have been told before:  Nobody cares a whole lot what your rig looks like [except you] as long as it sounds good.  I did do a minor rebuild on the audio chain on the V2 a few years ago which improved the audio quality somewhat.  Found a 5 watt variable resistor to replace the drive control, believe it was from Mouser.  Only issue was size, but it's doable.  Not really good at physical restoration any more; get up and go is just not there as much any more.


I agree it is not really that bad looking. I am just going to clean everything and not worry about the battle scars. All I did to the Ranger 1 and it works pretty good.

The V2 does work. Very surprising to me. There were a few wires that had been disconnected, one was to the oil filled cap (C9). I powered it up and got 100 watts out on cw. Still learning how to use these rigs. There is no audio out or cw tone. Going to go ahead and re-cap the rig, check resistors and do some touch up on the wiring and controls.  I pulled all the tubes today and getting ready to remove the front of the unit. Lots of dust has settled in. I call that protective dust. Preserves the beauty beneath it.  I did find the 122 does work. But I am questioning those mica caps. Saw some noise on the SA that should not be there.

Will get a video on the restore of both units.
Now to find a good receiver to go along with these.
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kc4umo
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« Reply #30 on: October 25, 2017, 04:13:16 PM »

went through the VFO and for the most part it is working.  The V2 does work as is but very dirty and needs upgrading. Puts out full power but did not want ot keep playing around with it due to the dust and grime in the rig.  With the front panel and covers removed from the chassis I can get a good look at everything now.  The roll inductor looks great just dirty.  No burnt spots. The small roller squeals like a pig when it moves across the shaft. So when all that is cleaned up need to find a good lube for it.


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w1vtp
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« Reply #31 on: October 25, 2017, 10:10:05 PM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Would have been nice if the downloaded pictures weren't thumbnails.

Good luck with the project
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kc4umo
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« Reply #32 on: October 26, 2017, 05:50:15 AM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Would have been nice if the downloaded pictures weren't thumbnails.

Good luck with the project

I will link in the larger pictures.


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w1vtp
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« Reply #33 on: October 26, 2017, 09:36:33 AM »

Thanks for the larger pics.  You're a lot braver than I am.  I have a pair of Vikings with VFOs. They are in excellent cosmetic shape. The V1 is working. I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the status of the V2 even though I've had it on the work bench for over a year.

The 122's have a reputation for being drift-o-matics if they have been left in as-received conditions. Your TLC is to be appreciated.   When I was a kid, I wanted the V1 so bad but never had the cash for it. Decades later I did get my V1 & V2s. You are shaming me to get off my butt and get started on my V2.

This is making for excellent reading.  Keep those pics and progress reports coming.  I think the EFJ Viking series is the ultimate in an excellent rig for us "kids" who what an affordable but effective 100 watt class rig

Al,  VTP
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kc4umo
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« Reply #34 on: October 28, 2017, 09:33:55 PM »

Thanks Al, yes those larger pics work better here. Don't feel bad, I have stuff on the bench for quite a while myself.
The Johnsons is something I have been wanting for many years. This gives me the fuel to work on them.

I have tore the V2 apart. Removed the tank assembly and shields. Working on cleaning up the chassis and polishing it. A lot of work but will be rewarding. I have taken lots of pictures of the progress while recording the video. Now this is when I wish I had a larger ultrasonic cleaner to sit the tank unit in. Need it to be as clean as possible as any contaminates on the roller inductor could leave to disaster. Or a bunt spot on the winding. Good thing the whole tank unit can be removed without any desoldering.

Lots to come soon.


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WO4K
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« Reply #35 on: October 29, 2017, 08:11:15 AM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Radio Daze is offering faceplate refinishing for the 122. See:
http://www.radiodaze.com/viking-model-122-vfo-faceplate-item-fp-efj-vk122/

They are also refinishing the faceplate for my Viking II CDC. Below is a .pdf of the the artist's final proof copy sent for my approval. I will be delighted if the faceplate comes back looking that good.


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kc4umo
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« Reply #36 on: October 29, 2017, 08:59:56 AM »

Picked up a Johnson 122 VFO for the VII. It is a little rough on the outside but looks great on the inside.
Started the tear down of the unit today. Will get some video of it shortly.

Radio Daze is offering faceplate refinishing for the 122. See:
http://www.radiodaze.com/viking-model-122-vfo-faceplate-item-fp-efj-vk122/

They are also refinishing the faceplate for my Viking II CDC. Below is a .pdf of the the artist's final proof copy sent for my approval. I will be delighted if the faceplate comes back looking that good.


Yes been looking at those. Let us know how yours turn out.  The picture looks awesome. I am still on the middle of the fence about the comedic condition of my rigs.
One part of me likes the idea of having "like new" transmitters while the other part likes the "used" look.  May just get the decals and stuff and save them for later use....Decisions.......

Thanks for sharing.
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #37 on: October 29, 2017, 09:28:27 AM »


The CD warning has the word  "IF " in plase of "OF"....   maybe they shuda used PROOF as a watermark.

How do you intend cleaning the tank, particuraly the roller inductor? I've worried of contaminating the ceramic.

KLC
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kc4umo
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« Reply #38 on: October 29, 2017, 12:36:42 PM »


The CD warning has the word  "IF " in plase of "OF"....   maybe they shuda used PROOF as a watermark.

How do you intend cleaning the tank, particuraly the roller inductor? I've worried of contaminating the ceramic.

KLC

Very good question. As some ultrasonic cleaners could damaged the ceramic. I will start out by soaking it in  distilled water that is luke warm then followed by a warm vinegar/salt bath then followed by a distilled water rinse.  The main thing is to keep contaminates out of the ceramic. As these contaminates could lead to arcing.  Would love to hear how others would approach it myself as this is the type of material you do not find on the net.

I am sure there are others that have better ways of doing this and some that have never giving it a thought.
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WD4DMZ
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« Reply #39 on: October 29, 2017, 02:16:15 PM »

Very enjoyable thread. Keep posting.

About 18 months ago I acquired a V2 in parts that an area ham had given up on. Pretty clean but sold as is and not working.

After replacing the caps and a few resistors I adjusted it per the manual and buttoned it up to give it a try with the intent of going back into it and cleaning it up better and adding a few missing parts. The initial on air reports were so good I decided to leave it alone and have been using it about 90% finished ever since.

One set of parts still in a box is the coil/switch that enable use on 160 meters. I do not use 160 much and getting the parts installed will require a lot of effort. Also, the tuning dial needs adjusting as it reads way off what it should at resonance but that is a simple mechanical adjustment.

One issue that still remains is that the xtals do not resonate at their nameplate frequency. There are no trimmers so I added a few mmf in parallel with each one to get them within 100 Hz of where they should be. The caps in the circuit must be bad but that will wait as I am well within everyone's receiver passbands. Only the SDR users notice.

I also picked up a 122 VFO that was sold as working and I believed the seller so did not check it out previous to plugging it in. The prior, prior owner must have modded it for some other xmitter as a wire was out of place and it caused the choke under the main coil to blow up - literally. Whew! The choke acted as a fuse and saved the V2 from serious damage. Fortunately the gent I had purchased the V2 from had accumulated some extra parts and there was an extra choke in the box of parts.


When going thru the 122 be sure to look for a non obvious mod or wire out of place so you do not experience what I did. One observation on the VFO... after about 30 minutes of warm-up the 122 is really stable and stays right on the mark.

Good luck,  Rich
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kc4umo
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« Reply #40 on: November 03, 2017, 04:45:05 PM »

Thanks Rich. Sounds like you got that rig singing along now. I love hearing stories like this also.

Well I spent the better part of the week doing nothing but cleaning. I was thinking of polishing the chassis out but decided not to. A lot of work for something you cannot see most of the time.  I am going to do some electroplating though. Either nickle or copper. Cannot make my mind up yet. Since there is a pit of copper in the rig may be the way I go. Some of the brackets that hold controls and the large one around the tank is pitted and flaking off.  So may plate them soon.

Anyway here is a couple of pics.


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KB2WIG
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« Reply #41 on: November 03, 2017, 04:56:05 PM »



Nice work. It looks much better than my VK2.  Now I'm jealous.

klc



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WD4DMZ
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« Reply #42 on: November 03, 2017, 11:28:52 PM »

Wow... that is nice!

Rich
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kc4umo
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« Reply #43 on: November 04, 2017, 11:59:52 AM »



Nice work. It looks much better than my VK2.  Now I'm jealous.

klc





Thanks. Now do not be jealous, although the inside looks pretty good the outside is a different story.



Wow... that is nice!

Rich

Appreciate the comment. Thanks.

I have the chassis back together. All cleaned. Waiting on the post to drop off my capacitors and resistors now.  Done so many cap jobs lately I had ran out of stock. Possible they will arrive today. If not Monday then.

Now I can start checking the tubes and component checks. I have a lot of video footage on the V2 and 122 vfo I will upload soon if time allows.

 



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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #44 on: November 08, 2017, 10:21:11 AM »

Buddy, I have to agree those rigs look pretty darn nice inside, and it's a lot of work getting them clean using the typical processes.   There's nothing better than working on a clean radio, but I've found a much quicker way to get those classics ready for the repair bench.  

I've used the pressure washer on the trucks, tractor, and mowers for several years and the thought of using it on radios, at first seemed pretty far fetched.   Then I tried it on an old parts donor and was really impressed with the result.   I have since used it on several radios and it makes short work of the whole cleaning process.  

There are a few precautions, like making sure there are no dials that can't get water on them, removing all the meters, keeping water out of the bottom side of the power transformers, and don't fill up the I.F. cans.  Some transmitter tank coils need a little caution as well.   Final step is to do a thorough rinse with distilled water and set the unit out in the hot sun for a couple days.  Here are a some examples, and yes, all are alive and well.


My Viking II

This is the  2-40D I finished aligning yesterday, and used on the MOKAM morning net.

My National 183D

...And an AR88.  You can see how the fabric wire colors came back and the whole thing looks almost new.   This took about 20 minutes.
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kc4umo
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« Reply #45 on: November 10, 2017, 01:26:44 PM »

Buddy, I have to agree those rigs look pretty darn nice inside, and it's a lot of work getting them clean using the typical processes.   There's nothing better than working on a clean radio, but I've found a much quicker way to get those classics ready for the repair bench.  

I've used the pressure washer on the trucks, tractor, and mowers for several years and the thought of using it on radios, at first seemed pretty far fetched.   Then I tried it on an old parts donor and was really impressed with the result.   I have since used it on several radios and it makes short work of the whole cleaning process.  

There are a few precautions, like making sure there are no dials that can't get water on them, removing all the meters, keeping water out of the bottom side of the power transformers, and don't fill up the I.F. cans.  Some transmitter tank coils need a little caution as well.   Final step is to do a thorough rinse with distilled water and set the unit out in the hot sun for a couple days.  Here are a some examples, and yes, all are alive and well.



...And an AR88.  You can see how the fabric wire colors came back and the whole thing looks almost new.   This took about 20 minutes.


Nice looking rigs!
Great job on cleaning those up and getting them going.  Thank you for sharing your work.
Most of the time I have no problem spaying an old rig down and hosing it off. Done this many times. And they always turn out nice. Since I have been remodeling the kitchen in the house I bought new appliances,  I have already moved the oven over into the garage here in the shop. I have two plans for it. One is I am going to build a box that is thermal insulated. Open the door and the box will sit on the door. This will increase the size and will be used as a oven for powder coated parts. The other plan is to use it to dry rigs after as good washing. 150 to 170 degrees should be fine.

Got so it takes me longer to do repairs now since i  video record everything.

Again, thanks for sharing and reading.

I really like the looks of the V2 on the inside.  I got all my needed capacitors this week, now just need time to get to replacing them.  Time has been limited due to the public job and house remodeling.
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« Reply #46 on: November 10, 2017, 01:52:47 PM »



M,

How do you keep the water out of the pwr transformers? Do you cover them?, block them? Stuff the holes?

The only power washer I could use is at the diy car wash. Is this your method also?

I have washed boatanchors off with a garden hose, just 'flooding' the tops of a chassis.  In the past, I've put small things in the trunk to dry them off.  Now, with the weather the way it is, unless the wife was away, I'd end up using a fan to dry things out. Maybe a lamp inside a cardboard box...

klc

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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #47 on: November 11, 2017, 12:01:08 AM »

Hi Kevin,

I use masking tape and just cover the holes where the leads come out of the transformer if it's the enclosed type, and be careful not to flood  that area.   Open frame types I wrap masking tape around the whole transformer.  For IF cans, just a little patch over the holes.   

I've used the DIY car wash before, but I have a smallish pressure washer that I also use for cleaning the cars, tractor and riding mowers.

The important points in my book are, one, final rinse with liberal amounts of distilled water, and use either compressed air or a leaf blower to get most of the water off quickly, then, allow a couple /  three days in the hot sun, or in a ventilated oven at 170 degrees or so for at least 24 hours.

I clean most of mine in batches, and they wind up setting in the Queue for a few weeks at least, so they are plenty dry by the time I get them on the bench.
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« Reply #48 on: November 11, 2017, 01:27:01 PM »


M,

Thanks fer the dope information.

I'll probably spray the babies with 50% ammonia and water mix, followed by the sparkle city pressure wash. I usta have an 'endless' supply of deionized water, but that's gone.  Looks like a few 1gal jugs from the local  dollar store or Wegmans. The basement is running ~45% humidity, so it looks like it will be a leaf blower before a space heater into a cardboard box.  That leaf blower idea is a gud one. (I've an electric oven, but you know why it not going to be used.)


klc
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kc4umo
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« Reply #49 on: November 12, 2017, 07:45:24 AM »

Been tied up and did not get a lot done this week en so far.  Had to finish up a review / repair video from a product I received a few weeks ago. I did get my capacitors in from Just Radio so yesterday evening stated the replacement.
First was to tackle the high voltage filter caps.  Two 15Mf @450 volts and 2 @150 volts. I changed the 15 @ 150 to 16Mf  @ 160 volts.

I installed 2 terminal strips where the original caps were located, one 5 terminal and one 3 terminal. In the negative supply the 150 volt caps positive end tie to ground.

The small caps fit in perfect and take up less room than the originals.
Today will get the other two electrolytic replaced along with all the wax caps.


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