Viking Ranger lives - briefly

[W4AMV]

I only pointed out the isolation transformer as another piece of test equipment that should be considered down the road, as stated in switching supply troubleshooting. On the variac, it's a handy investment and I am glad I have one (actually several). In any case, yes, the FUSE blows, great, now what. Really, its just a matter of convenience and it is a troubleshooting asset, not a hindrance. It puts me in control of bringing up line voltage as I see fit, not at the whim of some fuse blowing.  Please explain an instance where the variac causes more problems. I am sure that may be a case where under voltage devices can be forced to draw excessive current. Yes, that could be a problem. So sure, understand the circuit and apply a variac if it all makes sense to do so. QED

[N8ETQ]

    Yo' Yous,


         A couple of of heavy Fil. Xfmrs back to back =
an iso xfmr.. or close enuff for ham stuff.. If fuses r
poppin U got issues.  Ranger is a SWEET rig. Do you have
a tube checker?  The 5R4 is HV, pull that...  If its
still poppin' pull the 6AX5 or whatever it is..

        Iso Xfmr is sweet but any arrangement where
ground is "Irrelevant" is cool...  Were shoes!!

GL

Please keep us posted...

GL

/Dan

[N9axl]

Here's a thought..since it works with the low voltage rectifer we can assume that works as does LP2. Since when the HV is put on it blows the GFI that means bad bypass caps in that circuit. Same problem I just had with LV.  There is an L network near the accessory socket carrying High b+ to modulator. I wonder if removing those bypass caps would be useful.


GFI blows not the radio fuse. On an isolation transformer I bet I don't have the problem. Going to get that and a variac


I need to replace the drive pot - to do that I need to remove LP2 and the HV bleeder..maybe, as long as I've gone that far -  replace the HV bleeder and replace x11 and x12 sockets with ceramic which will make sure all the connections are good.

It's more than I need to do but its a long long winter here.

[N2DTS]

Well, fuses are cheaper then variacs, although one does not rule out the other.
On many things, the HV, bias and filaments are all on the same transformer and you might as well just power everything up with a fuse since things may not start working before almost full power anyway.
Variacs have gotten VERY expensive!

Its not unusual to have a working rig crap out in use.
With old gear you have to be used to things happening.

I do not know how many times I left the safety short on the big rigs and keyed the rig.
3000 volts at 500 ma into a short trips the cabinet breaker very quickly.

I have never had a fire, but the big electrical rated fire extinguisher is a VERY good idea in the shack, at all times.

[N9axl]

I know, but having this makes my wife feel better about this hobby. Again, complete overkill, but I think an isopack tr-110 isolation transformer into a variac which also has an isolation transformer would be fine.

I should add that I have horrible voltage regulation here in this neighborhood. We are several blocks from a university campus of 13,000. We know when they get up and when they get home - the electricity flickers and blackouts are not unknown.

On these old radios stuff is going to flare and die - true dat as the kids say. On the good news front - a Viking 2 CDC arrived at my door yesterday. Now, shipped single boxed, by Fed Ex, and packed only with broken pieces of odd styrofoam and, I swear, the foam from a container of bacon, it was undamaged.  Try that kind of packing with a modern rig made of plastic.

[N2DTS]

Well, I got a great deal on a Scott SLRM and it was packed the same way and arrived with a big dent in the front panel and all the knobs pushed in.
Still works, but its rough on tubes to ship that way.

[AB2EZ]

The isolation transformer will probably eliminate the GFCI tripping problem. But, for various reasons, it would be best to run the Ranger from an outlet that is not GFCI protected.

The disc bypass capacitors along the modulated HV path that leads to the plate choke will not affect GFCI tripping or fuse blowing (unless on of them is shorted). They primarily affect the high frequency roll off of the modulation. The stock design has too many capacitors that are effectively in parallel (too much total bypass capacitance to ground).

Since the modulation resistance of the 6146 output stage is around 5000 ohms, you want the total bypass capacitance between the modulated HV bus and ground to have an impedance of around -j5000 ohms at an audio frequency that is somewhat higher than the highest modulation frequency you expect to be using (which will be limited by other things in the modulation chain)

If you pick the frequency... where the roll off effect of the bypass capacitors is 3dB... to be 10kHz, then the total bypass capacitance should be around 1/(2 x pi x 10000Hz x 5000 ohms) = 0.003 uF.

In a stock Ranger, all the modulated HV bus bypass capacitors add up to more than .01uF (including the effect of the plate blocking capacitor that feeds the pi network).

Therefore, you should remove at least half of them (e.g. C66, C67, C83, and C48)

Stu

[N9axl]

That seems sensible and was the direction I was headed in.  I am putting this on hold for a while until I get a variac.  For those interested I unpacked the viking 2 CDC this morning. All intact, very clean too and bottom,  no obvious signs of smoke, damage, or Gus with the Golden Screwdriver having visited. All the tubes even made it without breakage. Amazing how clean the inside is. I was expecting it to be much worse.

  Anyone interested PM me and I'm happy to share more.

[N9axl]

Thanks. I have a variac on order.  Removing those bypass caps has stopped the ground fault tripping.  This morning , feeling in a mood to take a risk, I fired this up and it operated in tun for several minutes - until there was a short caused by a stray piece of wire that was grounding in the chassis. Far in the back where it had escaped inspection and the hand vacuum. I was seeing about 30 ma of osc current when that happened but nothing else.  There was no obvious indications of issues e.g. Smoke, fire, hot transformer.

 Removed that, replaced fuse, and tried again with the 5R4 removed.  Everything lit up. I am thinking that, basically, everything is OK. The Operating manual is non-specific about the warmup time. I'm thinking three minutes before I should be seeing plate current? I am very hesitant to do anymore with the 5R4 installed and at this point I am stopping until I get the Variac and can check the voltages properly. I need create some replacement cabinet bolts and maybe repaint the front of the VFO which is terrible.

[N8ETQ]

   N9AXL,

            If it's not "Smoking" with the 5R4 pulled, there a lot
of checks you can make.   I got one on the bench now, Far
from "Stock" but still a Ranger at heart.

            First off "we" need to know what Variant of Ranger
you have.  To determine this:

       Does it have the Keyer Sub Chassis above the
       Function Sw. ?

      If so, does it have the Taps from the power xfmr
      to supply the 6AL5?

       Looking at the back of the function switch at the
       rear wafer, does it have an "Intact" pin 9 position?

       With the Meter SW in the "GRID position" and the
       CRYSTAL/VFO Sw. in the "ZERO" position, can you
       find any indication of grid current?

Pin 6 will not be there in all cases, so continue to count
CCW from pin 6 to pin 9. It should be the bottom of a .51
ohm Ip shunt.  In ALL cases the lug will be there, in some
cases there will or will not be an actual contact that
reaches the wiper on the switch part.

       Direct answers to the above questions will help
us help you.  Also, Whats your name?

Please keep us in the loop.

73 and GL

/Dan

[Pete, WA2CWA]

      If so, does it have the Taps from the power xfmr
      to supply the 6AL5?

There is only one 6.3 volt winding on the power transformer that supplies 6.3 V AC either directly or through the 9 pin accessory socket in the rear.


     

 Looking at the back of the function switch at the
       rear wafer, does it have an "Intact" pin 9 position?

       With the Meter SW in the "GRID position" and the
       CRYSTAL/VFO Sw. in the "ZERO" position, can you
       find any indication of grid current?

Pin 6 will not be there in all cases, so continue to count
CCW from pin 6 to pin 9. It should be the bottom of a .51
ohm Ip shunt.  In ALL cases the lug will be there, in some
cases there will or will not be an actual contact that
reaches the wiper on the switch part.

Pin 9 is used as a tie point terminal. It has no internal switch function. Pin 6 is just an extra terminal. It has no switch function.

[N8ETQ]

  

Pete,

 Yes, The taps I'm referring to are on the sec. of the Power XFMR,
lower than low voltage taps, Labeled (Y) on the schematics.


     I have never seen a ranger with any hardware in the "6"
position of SW4B and I've seen a lot of em!

     Pin 9 of SW4B routes Modulated HV somewhere, I can't
recall where right now, but there were and still are at least
3 versions of Ranger's in existence.  Let alone the Ranger II.
They did try to get away from HV switching via the function
Sw.

     N9AXL may be new to this stuff, I have a little tiny bit
of familiarity with it. Just trying to help...  U ?

/Dan

      If so, does it have the Taps from the power xfmr
      to supply the 6AL5?

There is only one 6.3 volt winding on the power transformer that supplies 6.3 V AC either directly or through the 9 pin accessory socket in the rear.


    

 Looking at the back of the function switch at the
       rear wafer, does it have an "Intact" pin 9 position?

       With the Meter SW in the "GRID position" and the
       CRYSTAL/VFO Sw. in the "ZERO" position, can you
       find any indication of grid current?

Pin 6 will not be there in all cases, so continue to count
CCW from pin 6 to pin 9. It should be the bottom of a .51
ohm Ip shunt.  In ALL cases the lug will be there, in some
cases there will or will not be an actual contact that
reaches the wiper on the switch part.

Pin 9 is used as a tie point terminal. It has no internal switch function. Pin 6 is just an extra terminal. It has no switch function.

[Pete, WA2CWA]

After roughly 1956/57 Johnson supplier a transformer that had those additional taps for the 6AL5. With earlier Rangers, the keyer modification included a voltage divider network that at one end connected to the plates of the low voltage rectifier and the other end connected to the cathodes of the 6AL5.

    Yes, The taps I'm referring to are on the sec. of the Power XFMR,
lower than low voltage taps, Labeled (Y) on the schematics.

      If so, does it have the Taps from the power xfmr
      to supply the 6AL5?

There is only one 6.3 volt winding on the power transformer that supplies 6.3 V AC either directly or through the 9 pin accessory socket in the rear.


     

 Looking at the back of the function switch at the
       rear wafer, does it have an "Intact" pin 9 position?

       With the Meter SW in the "GRID position" and the
       CRYSTAL/VFO Sw. in the "ZERO" position, can you
       find any indication of grid current?

Pin 6 will not be there in all cases, so continue to count
CCW from pin 6 to pin 9. It should be the bottom of a .51
ohm Ip shunt.  In ALL cases the lug will be there, in some
cases there will or will not be an actual contact that
reaches the wiper on the switch part.

Pin 9 is used as a tie point terminal. It has no internal switch function. Pin 6 is just an extra terminal. It has no switch function.

[N9axl]

Thanks. I've done smaller projects -- restoring DX-40 and Hallicrafters receivers - but this is bigger.  This is the later version with the keyer deck.  I haven't examined the switch as suggested, but I can do that this week and report back.

The summary on this --for those not wanting to read the whole thread -- is I got this from a barn sale for about $150 and was told it had been sitting for 25 years.  It seems intact with no mods like PTT and is a kit build judging from the screws on the tube sockets.  I have (1) replaced all the caps especially the electrolytics (2) replaced the power cord with a grounded cord  and also the lower voltage rectifier tube (3)replaced a few caps that either had failed or looked like they would fail e.g. cracks  4)removed a few bypass caps to eliminate tripping on my ground fault interupt outlet. (5)basic cleaning of the interior and exterior, removing rust off the ground lug, etc. 5)did a basic inspection of the wiring, ect. and see it appears intact.  One or two of the connections to the HV and LV tubes seemed iffy so I resoldered them. 6)I have left the VFO alone. Judging from having to push on the tuning knob the planetary gear seems shot.  I plan at some point to build a digital VFO to plug into the crystal socket and use in place of the built in unit.

I have on order a new 20K bleeder resistor.  This checked out OK, but I thought it should be replaced while I have the rig open and the existing one can be a backup.  I also have a new driver pot which I also plan to replace since the bleeder resistor, etc needs to be removed anyway.  I'm debating replacing the tube sockets with ceramic, but haven't decided whether that's worth it yet. 

The goal here is to get this working on 40 meter CW in tandem with a Hammarlund HQ-170c. If I can get it to work on 80 meter phone that's a plus.  The overall goal here is to build a classic 1950s operating position with a Hammarlund HQ-170c flanked by a Johnson Viking (for CW) and a Johnson Viking II CDC for phone.  The latter unit I have and it is next on the bench after the Viking is done. I'm also rebuilding a D-104 microphone for which I need a new element and the appropriate connectors. 

[N8ETQ]

   Hey Man,



         As far as your VFO, it could just be the shaft coupler.
Nothing wrong with them once you get him going. Did you get
the chance to make the checks I posted about 5 post's up?
RE: The version of Ranger, Grid drive, and such. Or are you
waiting for your Variac. Probably a wise decision.

   I have been desperately trying to finish up my
"Problem Child" Ranger as well.  He is all Modified per
the WA3DSP write up.  I posted on this about 5 posts up
and will attach a PIX to this post. Amazing how "Bare"
the under chassis side is once you rip out all that crazy
filtering, eliminate the Driver Xfmr, switch him over
to modern caps, and relocate the LV choke to the top
of the chassis.


        I also attached a pix of a real EARLY Ranger
Function Sw.  Showing the original configuration of
SW4B-Pin 9.  In this pix Pin 9 is the one with RED/WH
wire attached to him.  Its kind of hard to see but
you'll notice that he has a full contact. You can find
these in one of three states. 1: A full contact as shown,
2: A partial contact where the sw. was modified just
to retain the "Wiring Lug" OR 3: A burnt, melted thing
there that used to be a full contact.


       Since your Ranger does have the keyer board
you should also find an additional pair of leads off
plate Xfmr. to power the 6AL5.


      Glad to see your pushing through all the BS that
comes with old Hammy Hambone gear! It will make you a
better Person!  You'll certainly have better radios.

73

/Dan

[N9axl]

This appears to have the Johnson PTT installed correct? I see part of a relay on the left side of the picture I think.  Didnt get to the Ranger yesterday since I had to diagnose audio issues in my FT-221 which needs a new PB-1499 audio board. maybe today.

[N8ETQ]

  Yes he does, Good catch...

73

/Dan

This appears to have the Johnson PTT installed correct? I see part of a relay on the left side of the picture I think.  Didnt get to the Ranger yesterday since I had to diagnose audio issues in my FT-221 which needs a new PB-1499 audio board. maybe today.

[N9axl]

This is confusing because there is another relay in the back next to the microphone jack.  Perhaps this has some other function like a tR  switchOr the Johnson PTT has been disconnected and the relay is for a newer PTT ?  In my case I took the 115 volt ceramic output Jack out that powered the Dow key relay in favor of an external T/R switch. 

[N9axl]

This is confusing because there is another relay in the back next to the microphone jack.  Perhaps this has some other function like a tR  switchOr the Johnson PTT has been disconnected and the relay is for a newer PTT ?  In my case I took the 115 volt ceramic output Jack out that powered the Dow key relay in favor of an external T/R switch. 

[N8ETQ]

   Sorry for the confusion, the PIX are of
2 diff rangers, the SW4 pix is just another
Ranger that happen's to be here.

   The "Bottom View" pix is the Ranger I modified
per the WA3DSP write up. There are actually
2 relays on the back apron. 1 switches HV and
LV. The other is for TX light and osc. keying..

    Amazing how cool a Ranger runs with the HV
and LV removed from everything except the VFO
and V3... SW4B brings up LV to the Audio stages
only in the PHONE pos.

73

/Dan

[N9axl]

Back at this after a month - busy hiring new employees for my business - I replaced the 20kohm bleeder resistor and started checking my work.


I see that at the beginning of this I replaced c78 a 30mf electrolytic with a 20uf I had in my stores.  It connects positive to the terminal strip with a .005 cap and a 27kohm resistor - upper part of photo. I ran the ground side to a screw on the chassis. I see elsewhere people have replaced this with a 47mf cap. That appears to be the correct wiring as I read the schematic.  The low B+ seems to be working.


As far as I can tell there are no obvious shorts to ground or other issues shorting the High B+ - these are two separate circuits.

Advice? It seems like this part is wrong and should be replaced.  But that doesn't solve my high b+ issues - again needs a variac but that money this month went to replace the heater in my car - a necessity for winter. Maybe next month. Remove all the tubes except the rectifiers and bring everything up slowly and see what gives.

[N8ETQ]

      I have been screwed by two nasty shorts
on a Ranger..  1: Those crappy filter coils
touching one another.   2: That RF choke
on the terminal strip for the VFO being bent
so far down that he hits other pins or chassis.

     Do you have an ohm meter?

[N9axl]

Yes. I think I have c78 connected wrong. The positive end Should be on one side of lp2 correct? 

[N8ETQ]

yes..

[N9axl]

thanks. I think, somehow, I added an extra electrolytic cap to this.  I count 5 in the assembly manual - the three dual caps c90 c50 and c59, c78 in the front middle, and c77 the high voltage cap

In my unit I have the c50 c90 and c59 replaced, c78, and c77 - made of two caps plus the resistors.  That leaves an extra 30uf electrolytic cap which has no business being there. This makes six. See photo.

back to the assembly manual to check everything. Am I thinking this through or perhaps my copy of the manual is incorrect.