Auto tune Viking 1...

[N8ETQ]

    I need a VFO for this thing anyway, Since he's
sitting right there next to an ART-13... Well, one
can see how my mind wandered. 

    I didn't realize how close in size the Vik. and
the ART are. My cat will love the "Non-Split" level
floor plan this winter.

    I already searched this forum for "ART-13 PTO Output"
with and without ("), ART-13 PTO, and finally just ART-13.
No results on DUCK either.  Looking for an easy way to
pull excitation out of the ART-13.

  AM Phone: "If it ain't here, It ain't anywhere!"

/Dan

[WD5JKO]

Answer "tongue in cheek" 

Hmmm, so I guess size and efficiency are not concerns. If you make a 100 watt rated 20 db attenuator, that takes 100 watts down to 1 watt. One watt at 50 ohms is about 7v rms or 10v peak. That will drive the Viking I VFO input. You will then have the only 813 driving a 6AU6. 

Better yet power the ART-13 off dynomotors using a big 28V 50 amp power supply.

Good luck with your project.

Jim
Wd5JKO

 

[Opcom]

If you are satisfied with output from the ART-13 oscillator or a low power stage following it, you can look into salvaging the RF amp section from an older solid state HF 'rice box' or a small 2-transistor class AB "CB linear amplifier". Only a few watts would be needed, so the attenuation could be done on the amp's input with a series resistor. The scheme would avoid having to hack and modifiy the ART-13's RF circuits excessively. It would be as possible to try coupling the signal from the last stage before the ART-13's 813, by use of a separate 2-4 turn coil at the cold end. No matter what, you are in for some experiments so please keep us posted if you go forward.

What is a 'non-spilt' level for the cat?

[WD5JKO]

  I once saw an Arc-5 transmitter that was "chopped" such that it was only about 5" deep, yet still looked original from front or rear view. It was converted to be a dedicated VFO. This was at a swap fest, and when I went back after reconsidering it, the guy was gone. He was a machinist and really did a good job with all the mechanical details.

  Perhaps if you have a junker ART-13, you can take a similar approach with the goal to use just the VFO, and perhaps a buffer stage to use as a stand alone VFO, and power it from the Viking 1 Low B+. If the power needs are not compatible, make a combined plate and filament supply, much like Knight Kit did with their stand alone VFO. I don't know the layout of an ART-13, so the "saws-all" chop job might not be possible.

Jim
Wd5JKO

[w1vtp]

How about a Johnson 122?

http://amfone.net/Amforum/index.php?topic=38294.0