Invader 200/2000 Question....

[n2len]

Well the Invader 200 and 2000 both arrived yesterday...

Here is my situation....

The Invader 200 was purchased used by the original owner only to be a future donor parts radio for the 2000 when needed.
The condition is quite good...The cabinet needs a paint job...Front face is mint....
Still looking for a known paint source...

Looking at the insides, all original, seems totally complete.

I don't know it's history, the HV capacitors are red paper 60mfd at 450 volts.
Some were removed and placed into a plastic bag. Upon inspection, I noticed one fully blown open on it's side.
So it's quite possible that there was a HV power supply problem to start.
I need to source the HV capacitors and would like a suggestion on a brand/type to buy....and where to get them from....

Last night I spent some time on the band switch. It was frozen....The cabling needed to be restrung as well.

I was able to get it all back working, however the wheel that turns for the band readout sits slightly lower than where is should be.

Also, before I begin, does anyone know if the outter grey frame ring, separate from the chassis without dismantling the entire front?

For painting purposes....

Tks,
Len N2LEN

[Rob K2CU]

you will probably want to replace the string of HV caps in the power supply. Today's technology is greatly improved over 1960's. First, measure the physical size of the existing caps. Then, do a search at either Digikey or Mouser. you first select capacitors, then aluminum, then enter the voltage range (>450) and capacitance (>60) and apply the filters. you will get a slew of parts in the selector page. you can then examine the available sizes to find what will fit. you will need to decide if you must have axial leads (opposite ends) or can work with radial leads (same end).  There are more options with radial leads. Don't select a value too much larger than what you had as the inrush current maty be too much for the rectifiers, etc.

Before you fire it up, be sure to check the HV rectifiers for shorts. That cap blew for a reason, or may have taken out something else. IN fact, you may want to check the tranny by itself first, not that the secondary is blown too and the reason it became listed as a parts unit.

[n2len]

Thanks for your reply Rob...

I will follow your suggestions and check digikey and mouser for the capacitors...

I also noticed that I need to change the power cord and the fuse holder.....

After about 1 hour and several q-tips, at least I can now read the markings on the chassis....

I really dont have any experience with tube stuff, even though it has been a dream for me ever since I was a

young boy...

Now if you ask me a question about a Mastr 2 or Micor.....

[W3GMS]

You may want to check with Hayseed Electronics for your capacitors.  They are fantastic people to deal with.  Give them a call or e mail them for what you need.

http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/

Don't you just love those Micor Squelch chips!  I use them in all my repeaters.

Have fun with your Invader.  I have had an Invader 2000 for many years and they are a nice rig.  Frank, KB3AHE came out with some great mods when and if you get to that point.

Joe, W3GMS   

[n2len]

Thanks Joe...

I will check that out....

To waste this rig and use it as a parts rig... Nah...

Further investigating after installing the tubes....

I am missing a tube which turns out to be the 6X4...

I am guessing that when the HV electrolytics caps blew it also took out the 6X4 which supplies bias....

Kinda explains why it is missing....

Need to look some more....

Len

[ke7trp]

Two more good sources for caps are Justradios.com and tubesandmore.com  I have used them both.  Tubesandmore has a high end line and a lower end line. I use the lower end line caps and have for years with great luck.

C

[n2len]

Much appreciated....I will check them out!

[The Slab Bacon]

The 6X4 is the biass rectifier. The cap may have blown because someone hooked it backwards. I have used standard "off the shelf" electrolytics in the ones I have done with no problems.

Consider yourself forewarned, the Invader or Invader 2000 can be a hateful P.O.S. to get right, but when you do, they're fun to use.  They are not a project for the beginner, and can be both frustrating and dangerous to work with. My first one stayed about an inch away from a gallon of gas and a match!!

[Don, W2DL]

About painting the Invader, etc (or anything!) many NAPA auto parts stores, and a lot of others also, have color matching technology to make a special order of matching paint, the store I have used matched two different Heath colors so closely one could never tell it was a repaint. Call around and see who can do this, or ask an auto body shop where they get their paint. All you need to do is to bring them a paint sample (such as a panel, or cabinet) and they have this hand held "gun" that analyzes the colors and gives the formula to make some matching paint. It's terrific!  I first found out about this maybe four years ago when my son was manager of a NAPA store, I talked to him about where to get paint to do some Heath repaints, a day later I had the paint.
73 Don, W2DL

[n2len]

Thanks for the heads up on the capacitors....
I am pretty sure they are original....
The HV caps are red in color and made by Sangamo, which is shown in the pic in the manual..
Yesterday evening was spent finishing the cleaning of the chassis...

Regarding paint...I have 2 Napa stores locally and ask them if they are set up for color matching.
Sherwin Williams was another suggestion...
I looked the the back on ther front panel from inside...
It's a complete panel...It appears Johnson, to cut costs and use remaining stock, reused the existing
Valiant 2 front panels and slapped on a thin aluminum plate ontop to cover the existing holes that were for the Valiant.
I am not sure if I want to totally dismantle the entire front now...

Removing the front of the 500 was an easy task, when I restrung the band switch....

[n2len]

I have searched around....Digikey, Mouser, Antique Radio Supply, RF Parts...

I found on Fleabay....

Can anyone supply me with a place where I can get these HV capacitors for the Invader 200

It seems as though this cap (60uf at 450v) is a "non stocked item"

To start I need (3) 60uf at 450v axial.....

I also need  100uf at 250v
                  30uf at 450v

[WA2TTP Steve]

Len,

Have you tried Trojan Electronics in Troy NY. 518-274-4481. I've been told there pretty good.

Steve,
WA2TTP

[n2len]

Thanks for the reply Steve,

Called them, As soon as I mentioned 60 mfd's, he said that's a weird value...
He had (2) 50mfd's.....

So far the only guy who has (3) is on Fleabay.....

Anyone have any?

What about the idea of moving upto 80mfd's?
Any problems with inrush?

[ke7trp]

Go up.  Its not that big of a deal unless its in a half wave rectifier circiut like low voltage keying.  If its a PS filter cap, You can go higher and Johnson probably would have but larger caps where in fact larger and more expensive back then. On my Globe king 500, I doubled the oil cans and doubled the other filters throughout the radio. Only the low voltage keying circiut needed near stock value caps.

C

[WQ9E]

What about the idea of moving upto 80mfd's?
Any problems with inrush?

Vintage electrolytic caps had a very wide tolerance range with a common specification as rated value -40% to +100% so they were a far from precision component.  Going from 60 to 80 is not going to be an issue.

I use inrush current limiters in pretty much every repair/restoration that goes over my bench.  They are cheap, easy to install, and help reduce the stress on vintage components.  Available from Mouser and others, I use Mouser as my primary supplier for all passive components along with modern SS stuff and sometimes order from Digikey when they stock something that Mouser does not (which is a rare occurrence these days).

[AC0FA]

Hello;
Invader 2000 fan. I had a minor plate transformer issue with mine. My invader 2000 was made in 1962 and the insulation on the transformer leads to the 866 rectifier tubes just got old. No cracks or anything visible to the naked eye.

You may want to remove the iron cover off of the top of your transformer and carefully replace those leads with new high voltage wires of good insulation.


I replaced my leads and all is well now. Just wanted to spare you the purple lightening show. I still haven't found my seat cushion after that one!
 

   

[k7pp]

I've got a 200 and did the cap change out in the PS.  Don't forget to change out the bias supply caps.  There are two.
If you loose your bias you loose your 6146's.  They sit there with just the bias keeping them turned off in Standby.
Hell of a light show if bias fails.
There's a little meter socket right in front of the PA cage.  Just plug in your multi meter 's negative lead and your can adjust the PA bias with the pot on the side mount next to the meter.
Don't forget the chassis mounted multi section can caps on the power supply as well.
Had my Invader for about a year now and really like it.

Pete

[n2len]

Thanks for the reply Pete...

Are they 80Mfd's at 450 Volts for the Power Supply?

Very Nice pictures of a very nice rig!

Len

[k7pp]

Thanks, Len;
Yep,  they are 80's at 450.

Nice radio but not for the Novice.

Took me almost 6 months to get the alignment right and I've got all the right equipment.
I currently going through the same headache with a Hammarlund HX500 which I'm restoring.  Fact,  I've got two.  A little nicer than the Invader and a few more features but not as Purdy.

73s

[The Slab Bacon]

http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/invader2000.htm