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Author Topic: And your real problem is....  (Read 31910 times)
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N0WVA
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« Reply #25 on: December 27, 2010, 09:15:01 PM »

Quote
Found On Road Dead

RAM!  (speaks for itself)

DODGE ! ( also speaks for itself)

JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket)

Waiting for someone to do PONTIAC!
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #26 on: December 27, 2010, 09:18:39 PM »

4L80 is a close ratio box unlike the 4L60 with 3:1 first gear. tuff getting it moving with 256 but will go very fast.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #27 on: December 28, 2010, 11:43:08 AM »

Found a good local guy in business for himself
Blown Third and Fourth gear clutches
stinky oil
He does some upgreades to make it better.
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W3SLK
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« Reply #28 on: December 28, 2010, 01:46:01 PM »

Frank said:
Quote
Found a good local guy in business for himself
Blown Third and Fourth gear clutches stinky oil


Follow your nose, it always knows! I was thinking along the line of it constant down-shifting. It makes sense now. You would lose power when you would up-shift and the electronics would detect it. What's it going to cost and are you going to drop it? Make sure they drain the torque converter real good. You don't need stuff floating around the oil that would ruin the new clutch packs.
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Mike(y)/W3SLK
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K7LYF
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« Reply #29 on: December 28, 2010, 05:38:28 PM »

If it is a quality shop ,they will either have an exchange converter or they will have their own converter washing machine. You do not want to reuse the old converter by just draining it.

Good luck

mike

Frank said:
Quote
Found a good local guy in business for himself
Blown Third and Fourth gear clutches stinky oil


"Follow your nose, it always knows! I was thinking along the line of it constant down-shifting. It makes sense now. You would lose power when you would up-shift and the electronics would detect it. What's it going to cost and are you going to drop it? Make sure they drain the torque converter real good. You don't need stuff floating around the oil that would ruin the new clutch packs"
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #30 on: December 28, 2010, 05:40:08 PM »

The going rate from a number of shops is about $2000. This guy is going to replace more parts than come in the rebuild kit. He told me he could get me a Jasper rebuilt if I really wanted one but he uses the same brand parts in his rebuilds.
I told him that I don't need the truck until next week. Take your time and make it right. My only request is that it goes another 100,000 miles. He is a 1 man show with 3 bays. He showed me around his shop and he has a special booth to clean them out.
Seemed like a real good guy just trying to make a living.

He had me sold when he talked about the PWM controller for the converter lock up mode and the fix he puts in to make it last
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K5WLF
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« Reply #31 on: December 28, 2010, 05:45:07 PM »

Waiting for someone to do PONTIAC!

People On Narcotics Think It's A Chevy

Poor Old Nutcase Thinks It's A Cadillac

ldb
K5WLF
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #32 on: December 28, 2010, 05:51:18 PM »

Do what with Pontiac?
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #33 on: December 28, 2010, 06:17:23 PM »


Perverse, Obtuse Nutball, Tiptoeing in Insolence and Alcoholic Callousness


Ask the man that owns one.
 



klc
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KM1H
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« Reply #34 on: December 28, 2010, 08:47:11 PM »

I had a 96 Caprice ex Maine State Police rig with the 9C1 package which meant everything was oversized. 

Used it a few years as a tow vehicle to the drags and finally cooked the 4L60E. Rebuild quotes was something like $2200 installed so I started nosing around on various Chebby forums and wound up using a beefed 700R4 from a local seller with a resistor pack mounted onto to the harness to fake out the computer. Worked the balls.

Now dont ask me the values as I sold that 5-6 years ago but the info is out there.

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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #35 on: December 28, 2010, 10:21:35 PM »

Yea, I read all the forums. I need it fixed this week so I don't have to take the Mercury on the salt when I go back to work. I have no desire to be under it this time of the year. I would love to drop a 4l80E in it.
The Trans guy had a 4L60 on a pallet. It is not a small box.
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #36 on: December 29, 2010, 08:47:13 AM »

Yea, but................................

A manual transmixer eliminates those nasty "mystery" failures.
Be a man, drive something with a clutch! ! !  Grin  Grin
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W3SLK
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« Reply #37 on: December 29, 2010, 09:15:50 AM »

Frank said:
Quote
I have no desire to be under it this time of the year.

That's why asked if you were going to drop it. When I worked at the cousin's shop, that's what we did. I hated the winter months. We would push a car in the night before so that all the snow would drop off prior to removal. Of course it usually left the road grit behind.
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Mike(y)/W3SLK
Invisible airwaves crackle with life, bright antenna bristle with the energy. Emotional feedback, on timeless wavelength, bearing a gift beyond lights, almost free.... Spirit of Radio/Rush
WA1GFZ
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« Reply #38 on: December 29, 2010, 10:33:46 AM »

Yup Mikey,
Spent my time under the lift with that salty sand falling in my eyes. The only slush on my truck was from the ride to the shop. I parked it before it snowed. Well today I need to fire up the printing press and scrape up some cash to pay this guy.
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W1RKW
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« Reply #39 on: December 29, 2010, 07:13:35 PM »

Yea, but................................

A manual transmixer eliminates those nasty "mystery" failures.
Be a man, drive something with a clutch! ! !  Grin  Grin

I've always driven a stick and gone beyond 200K without trouble.  Got my first 4WD w/ slushbox.  Can't say that I like an auto.  It's a slug but it makes the wife happy.  Just waitin' for it's first crapout then we're going back to a manual.
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His fear was when I turned it on for the first time life on earth would come to a stand still.
W1UJR
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« Reply #40 on: December 29, 2010, 07:38:03 PM »

I agree....however, except for some trucks and SUVs, it is getting harder and harder to find standard transmissions any longer. I can't think of the last time we had a standard in the workshop. Almost everything is going automatic, and computer controlled, all in the same of fuel economy and standardization.

Of course some of the automatics can be driven like a standard and sifted manually, thinking of Porsche Tiptronic and Volvo Geartronic, but its not the same...
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W1TAV
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The Glow of Wood and Radios


« Reply #41 on: December 29, 2010, 07:42:22 PM »

Stick Shift?.. I shift my car with my feet! Interesting thing about the Model T Transmission, the final drive clutch pack is interchangeable with a GM T350 (with a slight modification) The 3 bands are Low Gear, Brake and Reverse..   Cotton webbing soaked in motor oil!   Wood and Kevlar are also used..  It basically is an automatic without the fluid drive and your feet are the servos..   - Steve

PS Note the Makings of a Spark Gap Transmitter attached to the flywheel!


* My 26 Touring.jpg (69.32 KB, 812x580 - viewed 411 times.)

* Transmission4359s.jpg (40.55 KB, 360x480 - viewed 420 times.)
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Steve - W1TAV
W1UJR
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« Reply #42 on: December 29, 2010, 07:50:22 PM »

Stick Shift?.. I shift my car with my feet! Interesting thing about the Model T Transmission, the final drive clutch pack is interchangeable with a GM T350 (with a slight modification) The 3 bands are Low Gear, Brake and Reverse..   Cotton webbing soaked in motor oil!   Wood and Kevlar are also used..  It basically is an automatic without the fluid drive and your feet are the servos..   - Steve

PS Note the Makings of a Spark Gap Transmitter attached to the flywheel!


Hi Steve,

That's cool that those cars can still be driven today, nearly 100 years later!
Not sure I'll be about to say that about any of the 2011 models.  Wink
Heck, I see the day coming when the government will outlaw ownership of our newer cars once they reach a certain age, safety and emission reasons will be given...

Is that a Model T trans?
Can it be serviced in the car?
Looks like the case splits, for adjustment, service or ?
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #43 on: December 29, 2010, 08:24:43 PM »

Frank, I can spank second as well as the next guy but the only standard turcks I could find in 2001 were six bangers. I needed something that would haul weight. The truck earned its rebuild. Many a weekend we had the family and a bed full of materials going 60 miles to GFZ So.
My brother has a '98 Dakota with 200K and the factory clutch.
That was before mopar turned it into a HOS a couple years later.
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W1TAV
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The Glow of Wood and Radios


« Reply #44 on: December 29, 2010, 08:32:54 PM »

That is indeed a Model T Transmission.  The car is the 1926 Touring that my then 17 year old son and I drove to Maine back in 2006 on a "Old Time" camping trip.  Back road all the way, including a ride down Salem Street in the North end of Boston at 10 AM on a weekday!

The Motor and transmission share a pan, there is an access cover that you can make band adjustments though (and on the 26 & 27 models replace the bands) As the picture shows, the top case can be removed to further facilitate band replacement. Anything more then bands, you  take 1/2 an hour or so and pull the motor! You do not even need a lift. It will slide out on the frame, hit a balance point and you simply "nose" it down on a block of wood, then pivot it around.. Done! Reverse the process to put it back in.. Not unlike our old VW days...

I have a friend with a 1911 T He will be out on New Years day driving his 100 year old car.  

Here is Picture of my 1925 Hack (The former Miss RI is standing off to the side) - Steve


* initial_view_transmission_bands.jpg (50.15 KB, 640x512 - viewed 430 times.)

* My Hack.jpg (126.91 KB, 616x462 - viewed 437 times.)
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« Reply #45 on: December 30, 2010, 09:11:35 AM »

I think it was Oldsmobile came out with the M-4 transmission in its 88. Part manual, part automatic. Sort of like a 2~3 on the tree. If memory serves me right, I think when you shifted from 2~3, you just pushed the clutch in. The 4th gear was like an overdrive. Pretty neat technology for about 1953(?)
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Mike(y)/W3SLK
Invisible airwaves crackle with life, bright antenna bristle with the energy. Emotional feedback, on timeless wavelength, bearing a gift beyond lights, almost free.... Spirit of Radio/Rush
The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #46 on: December 30, 2010, 10:59:17 AM »

IIRC, a 1911-t doensnt have a "self starter", itz crank only!! Better hope it isnt too cold out there and the flywheel magnetz are good and hot!! (Unless you got a cheater battery under the seat)

Ts are neat, except for the slow top speed of 25mph. A (now SK) friend of mine had a set of all of the patterns to make the wood pieces for a "Depot Hack". they are pretty kool, but a little too cool for the winter months. I have repaired a bunch of those and model A engines. My late buddy and I used to have an engine test stand for both so we could fire them up in the garage without the rest of the car.

One other thing to appreciate about a T is how low they would idle when everything was right. They would just barely tick over!!
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WA3VJB
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« Reply #47 on: December 30, 2010, 11:21:45 AM »

Stickshift is great in a car, not so hot for a truck towing or hauling.

Original clutches:

260,000 out of a Camry 5-speed, still fine when sold.

240,000 out of a Corolla 5-speed, still fine when sold

180,000 out of an Accord 5-speed, still fine when sold

Part of the secret to long clutch life is knowing how to shift.
I bet they don't teach technique anymore.
Pam's got a calibrated foot and I added her knowing how to double clutch a downshift and save the synchromesh facings.

Hi hi FB

Miss the Volvo overdrives I had.  4-speed stick with electric overdrive. Push a lever on the steering column, and voila !   Feels like 5th gear.

1972 1800ES
1973 1800ES
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w3jn
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« Reply #48 on: December 30, 2010, 12:36:40 PM »

I got well over 200K on the original clutches in my Chevy pickup and Chrysler LeBaron.  The clutch springs in the Chevy broke about 225K and my sister in law, who was driving it, pressed down so hard on the clutch that it broke the linkage.  I started it in gear and drove it home with no clutch; in fact with that truck I rarely used the clutch except to start out.  The clutch was still good on the LeBaron at about 250K or so when my wife drove it over a speed bump and the subframe broke, due to rust.

That LeBaron would get a good 40 MPG on a trip, which makes one wonder how those POS Smart Cars only get 40.

Mikey, I think you're thinking of the Chrysler FluidDrive.  It had a column shift with high range and low range.  Each range had two gears that would shift when you lifted the gas.  Although it had a torque converter you needed to use the clutch (which it also had) to shift between high and low range, or into reverse.  At a stoplight though you just held the brake, no clutch required.  Normal driving was just throw it in high range and drive it like an automatic (no shifting required) except for it to shift you had to let off the gas.

As my dad found out with my grandpa's '52 Chrysler Saratoga with the 331 Hemi, you could shift it as a 4-speed with a bit of trickery.  You put it in low range, accellerated, then let off the footfeed to let it shift - that's your 1-2 shift.  Accelerate away, then then held the footfeed to the floor as you shifted into high range.  This would then downshift it into the underdrive while switching to high range - that's the equivalent of teh 2-3 upshift.  Continue accelerating, then release the accelerator and it will automatically shift again - your 3-4 upshift.  Of course that was fairly hard on the drivetrain, but quite useful for drag racing until my dad found out nobody was interested in challenging him after a couple of wins  Grin

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html

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WA3VJB
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« Reply #49 on: December 30, 2010, 01:10:06 PM »

Quote
Of course that was fairly hard on the drivetrain,

Not that there's anything wrong with that !!



Another good way to be fairly hard on the drivetrain is to "powerjack," when a kid happens to have the grownups' car that has an automatic.

Speed trials, just before nighttime curfew, on a 2-lane straightaway neighborhood road. Probably a quarter mile, I later extrapolated.

Hold left foot firmly on the brake pedal.  Right foot tromp down.  When sufficient RPM pressure builds, lift left foot, plant on floor.

Test No. 1:  Dad's leased Ford Galaxy, a 1970, 351, 2V  , eh, okay, no big deal

Test No. 2:  Grandfather's 1970 Buick, 455, 4 bbl.  OK, now we're awake

Test No. 3:  Grandfather's 1964 Buick, 401, 4 bbl,  yeah, same sort of deal

TEST NO 4:  Mom's 1969 Mercury convertible: 429, 4bbl, dual exhaust, posi rear
       
                             WHWWWWWWEEEEE push me BACK in the seat
                                                and hang on

That Mercury was the only one where the back wheels would start smokin' even though I was holding the damn brake pedal best I could to the floor.
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