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Author Topic: R390 Help needed.  (Read 28115 times)
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nq5t
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« Reply #25 on: March 09, 2010, 05:39:12 PM »

Not many R390 people on this forum.

Well, I'm one.  I've been reading your posts with interest.  Sadly (?), my R-390 is a "remanufactured" unit built by Rick Mish a few years ago (and was probably a good bit more costly than the radio you're working on, maybe closer to the original government price - and worth it!).  Other than the crystal calibrator (which is a bit flakey and seems to work as a function of how long the radio has been off or on or neglected or stroked, or talked quietly to in a sultry voice), it works better than any other radio on the shelf (a pristine and beautiful Rick Mish 1967 EAC R-390A included, a fine radio which is NOT on the shelf).

Don't know about the funky wire to the diode Load, can't help with the power switch.  I'm an appliance operator when it comes to Mish's radios.

But the point is to provide encouragement.  When you get things working well, they work really really really well.  For AM at least, the R-390 is the ultimate radio.  But do stock up on 6082's -- a couple at least.  I have a lifetime supply -- if I ever sell the radio and my stock of 6082's, it will impact the world market :-)  I've tried a kit version silicon replacement, and tossed it.

Fine radio.  

Grant/NQ5T
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ke7trp
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« Reply #26 on: March 09, 2010, 06:01:54 PM »

Thanks for the pep talk.  Its an old girl and there is just not alot of info on it. Tons of A info but not on this one.

Cherrish that Mish radio! 

Mine is now working. I got the break in working with external power off my relay system.  Works FB.

When I put the new power switch in, then put the thing in the case, Its going to be fine for my shack. 

C
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ke7trp
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« Reply #27 on: March 09, 2010, 11:38:24 PM »

Ok.. More updates.  Got the panel painting done. 

My panel was engraved.  I stopped by Micheals Craft store and picked up some water based acrylic white.  The super cute woman knew exactly what I needed once I explained to her my project.

After many atempts and failures, I came back to amfone and searched again. I found a post where it was suggested to use notebook paper to whipe the excess paint off. This worked FB!   I probably used a 10 pages of printer paper. Tore a scrap, Whipe and in the trash. The paper lays flat and never gets in the grooves. 

I used a .59 cent foam Brush to apply.  Two brushes and the paint cost $1.48!

Here are the pictures.  I have to scrub the white film off in a few minutes.. Some areas I had to go over twice..  Just dab on, Wait 10 seconds and whipe in one motion.

Also.. I found that letting the paint sit on a paper plate for 10 to 20 minutes allowed it to thicken. This made the job even easier.. Just put a huge glob of paint out on a plate and let it sit.

Clark


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ke7trp
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« Reply #28 on: March 09, 2010, 11:40:25 PM »

More pics. 

As you can see, My panel was really bad.  Maybe one of these years, I will repaint the entire thing.  For now, This really made the thing come to life. When its cleaned and polished, I will post another picture.

C


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ke7trp
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« Reply #29 on: March 10, 2010, 02:52:27 AM »

Ok.. Panel and reciever are now done.  I need to find the two large knobs if anyone has any, let me know.

IT came out really nice. It works FB.  I put it in a Bud Case for now.  Once I get the paint that matches the T3, i will paint the case and panel to match.  Redo the Chrome strips and this project is done. 

Here it is up and running..

C


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Ed/KB1HYS
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« Reply #30 on: March 10, 2010, 08:22:09 AM »

That matches the T-3 very well!   It looks like you have the original meters on it too.  They were hard toget as they had the radium faces and the gove would removed them as part of the dmil process. 

Nice work getting it back to life!
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73 de Ed/KB1HYS
Happiness is Hot Tubes, Cold 807's, and warm room filling AM Sound.
 "I've spent three quarters of my life trying to figure out how to do a $50 job for $.50, the rest I spent trying to come up with the $0.50" - D. Gingery
ke7trp
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« Reply #31 on: March 10, 2010, 12:02:37 PM »

thanks alot!

Now.. For a POLL


Should I paint the bud case black or should I paint it to match the T3?Huh?


Clark
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ke7trp
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« Reply #32 on: March 11, 2010, 01:05:03 AM »

Black it is!

Sanded the case down by hand. I left the Crinkle finish on.  I just sanded the inside and some areas.  I cleaned with acetone.  Then primer with Auto primer.  After that dried I painted the case satin black.  It seems to have come out pretty darn nice. I took the chrome strips off and hand sanded them and then buffed them back out. They will look FB.

I also painted the patch panel to match.  Tomorrow, I am going to bake it in the sun, that is IF the sun comes out.. Then, I will put it back together and take some pictures.

C
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ke7trp
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« Reply #33 on: March 11, 2010, 11:55:19 PM »

Its done.  I will upload video and more pictures. I got lots of email on this project. Hopefully, it will be of some help. I am not super happy with the bud case, The paint is nice, But its 1 rack unit to tall and the reciever wont fit at the top. So I painted a plate to cover the gap.  Its the best I can do. I cant find the correct case. Maybe one day I will.  Here is the current station.  SP600 JX 12 is rack mounted and running Diversity with the R390.  It works FB!  Sp600 Slays the R390 though. I figured it would.  Back to back tests show the 600 just sounding better and recieving weak signal better.

My Brother took this photo with his Nikon Digital. 

Clark


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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #34 on: March 12, 2010, 01:58:16 AM »

Clark, thats a good looking station.  Cool You put a lot of work in it.

you might dig my setup from 1998~1999, don't think if you ever saw it.

left to right, hammurlund SP-200, Stancor 110-C transmitter ( single 812) driving the homebrew rig on the right, which was pair of united electronics 812H's (carbon plate 812) modded by 805's.

I sold it all off on ebay during one of my "screw it, I hate everything" phases. I was going to use this as a QSL card, but never did.


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w3jn
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« Reply #35 on: March 12, 2010, 03:30:36 AM »

That is a FB looking station indeed, Clark.

Since ya had the panel off that R-390, that woulda been a good time to paint it Stealth Bomber black  Grin
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ke7trp
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« Reply #36 on: March 12, 2010, 10:59:52 AM »


Very cool man.  I really like it..  To bad you sold it, I have done the same thing in the past.  Did you ever print those cards?

My station changes all the time.  When I find the correct case or at least a case that fits better, I will install it. Then time for new pics. I cant have gear open. Sophia the cat is already laying ontop of the damn thing right now Smiley

C

Clark, thats a good looking station.  Cool You put a lot of work in it.

you might dig my setup from 1998~1999, don't think if you ever saw it.

left to right, hammurlund SP-200, Stancor 110-C transmitter ( single 812) driving the homebrew rig on the right, which was pair of united electronics 812H's (carbon plate 812) modded by 805's.

I sold it all off on ebay during one of my "screw it, I hate everything" phases. I was going to use this as a QSL card, but never did.
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #37 on: March 12, 2010, 12:15:52 PM »

Quote
Sophia the cat is already laying ontop of the damn thing right now


Heh, she's a darling. Phoebe cat got into on of JN's 75A-2's n chewed up some B+ wiring all to hell. lucky for her th rx was off and unplugged. She will chew on anything made of cloth or plastic, if she can break it up into bit size she then eats it.  Cheesy

I was mortified to have to show Johnny the kittie's handiwork.

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ke7trp
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« Reply #38 on: March 12, 2010, 05:48:31 PM »

By the way. The R390 and 390A power switches are availabe. 

Robertshaw 224-1594-00  You can get them at Kens electronics.  $5. ITs an AC switch.  Guys are marking these thing up to $50!!!!! 

Clark
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #39 on: March 13, 2010, 02:13:14 AM »

Quote
Did you ever print those cards?

nope, never did.

I am going to have new cards made when the Raytheon is installed and everything is in place, rxer, exciter, Matchbox, etc.

As much as I love teh black wrinkle, it 's gonna be nice to break out of that mold with the RA-250. late 40's is a good style time-wise in radio. They kept a lot of the chrome and trim but started to get away from black only or gray only. All the Raytheon was 2 toned brownish themed with lots of trim.

I am SO GAY when it comes to gear, I like all the colors to mix and match and follow the same theme, etc.  Always been that way. I care about the visual appearance of my stuff way too much.
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Superhet66
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« Reply #40 on: March 13, 2010, 08:39:05 AM »

Re: Wisp of smoke and welded power switch.

I'de be curious what the in-rush amperage looks like w/ a cold rig. An analog meter with the range bumped up above the expected values might be interesting. It might help point toward some ghosts in the machine.

I'm not big on the R390's but they are starting grow on me!
The construction is amazing. Nice job.
                                                             D.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #41 on: March 13, 2010, 12:48:32 PM »

That would be interesting. I can measure that.  Every R390 and 390a I have come across does not turn off.  The switch always fails. Sometimes you can bring them back, Sometimes you cant.



C
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W2XR
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« Reply #42 on: March 13, 2010, 01:42:08 PM »

By the way. The R390 and 390A power switches are availabe. 

Robertshaw 224-1594-00  You can get them at Kens electronics.  $5. ITs an AC switch.  Guys are marking these thing up to $50!!!!! 

Clark

Clark,

Are you sure that this Robertshaw part no. is an exact replacement for the R-390/R-390A power switch?

If so, that is very valuable information.

Thanks & 73,

Bruce
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ke7trp
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« Reply #43 on: March 13, 2010, 01:47:43 PM »

It is the same.  I ordered one, Paid $50!!! for it.  Got it in the mail. It fits and looks EXACTLY like the original  5 amps 240volt. 10 amps 125 volt.  The guy did not grind off the part numbers.  I typed them into google.. I found them at Kens electronics. The page is confusing.. But it seems its $5 each.  I just wanted to pass this along so others dont spend $30 to $50 on a switch only to find out, The local AC parts house has them for a fraction!

C
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N0WEK
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« Reply #44 on: March 14, 2010, 04:13:36 AM »

http://www.kenselectronics.com/lists/switches.htm


Standard-Size Micro Snap-Action Roller-Lever Switches about 1" (27MM) long
PH30-2080 (15A) replaces GC35-0846 C&K Unimax TMCG40, 2TMA-4 3/16" blade    $5,01
PH30-18236 =CES66-4002 =VA-10022 =Highly VS10N061C roller 10A SPDT switch 1/4" blade    $4,77
PH30-2060 =GC35-0827 =VT16061C2 roller (1/2" out) SPDT switch 15A, 3/16" blade    $5,01
PH30-2060 replaces C&K Unimax MV3004, MV3005, TMCG40, TMCJ40, TMCJD6SA1540C,
3TMA-4, 3TMA154, Cherry E-34, GC35-848, GC35-0874, NTE54-400
      
PH30-2080   PH30-18236 =CES66-4002   PH30-2060
291-0005-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT button switch 6A-240VAC solder terminals
206-2405-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT button switch 6A-240VAC solder terminals
224-1594-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT button switch 6A-240VAC solder terminals
224-1611-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT button switch 6A-240VAC solder terminals
209-3008-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT switch 2" lever 6A-240VAC solder termin
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K9TR
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« Reply #45 on: March 14, 2010, 08:35:46 AM »

Is it the shortest arm roller switch that is the correct replacement?

PH30-2080 (15A) replaces GC35-0846 C&K Unimax TMCG40, 2TMA-4 3/16" blade 5.01

My 390A's are not readily accessible but I'd love to order a couple of replacements.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #46 on: March 14, 2010, 11:50:30 AM »

I posted the part number.


C
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K9TR
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« Reply #47 on: March 14, 2010, 02:07:41 PM »

Yes I saw, Ken's web page is a bit confusing.

224-1594-00 Robertshaw-Acro SPDT button switch 6A-240VAC solder terminals

The above (and the other 4 Robertshaw switches) are posted without a price shown so I'm awaiting a reply to my email as to its availability.  Or was thinking one of the PH30's may work, I'm hoping their listing means one of them is equivalent to the 224-1594-00 or close enough to use.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #48 on: March 14, 2010, 02:15:49 PM »

Oh.. I dont know.. Let us know what you find.  You can also get the switch from local AC parts houses.  You will need to call a Robertshaw dealer.

C
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K7EK
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« Reply #49 on: February 29, 2012, 02:53:16 AM »

Clark,

Looks like my R390 (plain) has gone to the same place as yours. Mine won't power off. I'm told that there is a Cherry microswitch on the back side of the front panel for AC power on. I hesitate trying to replace it as I'm a bit paranoid with having to pull the front panel. Apparently you have already done this. Please share with us how that went and what problems you experienced. Did you get the power switch replaced ok?

Thanks for the information.

Best regards,

Gary, K7EK

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