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Author Topic: T368 comes home!  (Read 29863 times)
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ke7trp
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« Reply #50 on: January 21, 2010, 10:50:42 AM »

YEah. Two fans. One in the RF deck and one in the bottom cabinet. The lower one is switched and not noisy.  The top one is shot.  The bearings are gone. If it is not quiet with the new bearings and rubber gasket, Then I will put the dayton in. I ran it on the bench and its very smooth.

Mine wont load lower then 350.  No combination will let me do that.   It wants to be up around 500.  I wish the thing had an adjustable Drive Control. The 6000 tube in mine must hot.

Thanks for all the help. 
C
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #51 on: January 21, 2010, 12:56:20 PM »

GREAT!
I did the same thing and the top fan got quiet after bearing replacement.

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
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"Let's go kayaking, Tommy!" - Yaz


« Reply #52 on: January 21, 2010, 02:53:05 PM »

Keyed unit into Big Bird dummy for 15 minutes.  Cool air out the back.  Its running the same power as the GLobe king peak. THe Globe uses a small fan and no chimny. I think its ok to cut it down. if I get long winded, I will turn it up.

Clark

Clark,

There's nothing like having your big rig near you for adjustements, observation, etc.  But if it's noisy, it's a drag.  If you don't want to move it far away, here's a few ideas to quiet it down:

First add an exit temperture sensor to sample the 4-400's air. Run it as is to get a baseline reading. Those units are on eBay for under $40.

Then do one of two things:  Put a Variac on the existing blower and slow it down. See what you can get away with and still maintain a reasonable exit temp.
  
OR the BEST idea is to take out the blower and put a 4" PVC flange on the back of the T-368. and duct the air in.  Get the flange at Home Depot or Ace hardware, etc. Then mount a squirrel cage blower on the other side of the wall or even outside the house. Run some 4" duct hose (preferably fiberglass with smooth insides) to the T-368 flange. This will be quiet and very effective! Blower intake air turbulance noise as well as motor noise is 70%+ of the racket. Exit air noise is quiet white noise and soothing - and barely noticable on the air. Listen to my 4X1 rig using this technique. It moves plenty of air for three tubes too.   You need a reasonably quiet room to be able to run any audio processing (esp compression) on AM.  Let us know what ya come up wid.

T
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Use an "AM Courtesy Filter" to limit transmit audio bandwidth  +-4.5 KHz, +-6.0 KHz or +-8.0 KHz when needed.  Easily done in DSP.

Wise Words : "I'm as old as I've ever been... and I'm as young as I'll ever be."

There's nothing like an old dog.
ke7trp
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« Reply #53 on: February 02, 2010, 02:09:03 AM »

Here are the latest pictures of the T368.  Lots of work done here.  Its HiFi'd and sounding great. The Audio is plumbed into the J12 connector. I installed a remote PTT and mute harness also.  Above it is my SP600 JX14 Rxer that also has the Hifi modifications done. 

Clark


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N2DTS
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« Reply #54 on: February 02, 2010, 09:14:29 AM »

Looks nice.
The t368 is a better looking piece of gear for military stuff, most of which looked nasty.
An R390 would match up well....

Brett
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ke7trp
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« Reply #55 on: February 02, 2010, 11:36:30 AM »

Yeah. I have an R390 and R390A. I like the SP600.  I will need to get the R390 up and running to match the T3 better. Then use the 600 over on the big rig.

C
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #56 on: February 02, 2010, 12:05:14 PM »

Clark,

you got it going on. That's a good lookin shack.  Cool  What's the cats name, and have you made the gear kitty proof?

One of mine managed to chew the B+ wiring of one of JN's 75A-2's when it was on it's end sitting at the bench. I was highly mortified and embarrassed at this. The culprit was Phoebe, who likes to chew on plastic, rubber, soft drink bottles, toilet paper rolls, and (who knew) Collins rx wirez.

if that rx had been energized, she'd be dead and Glo would have been in tears.

make sure that kitty cant get his paw into anything hot.



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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #57 on: February 02, 2010, 12:40:51 PM »

I love the sepia tone provided by what I guess was a cell phone camera. Adds an old buzzard look to the whole thing. Very cool.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #58 on: February 02, 2010, 01:13:07 PM »

Yeah. It was my Palm phone.  I will take some better pictures. I forgot my good camera.

I am on 7293 now.  Waiting on the capacitors to arrive.  This thing is working just FB

C
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #59 on: February 03, 2010, 04:15:04 PM »

Roger the Timtron info on the tank circuit.
The blocking capacitor will eliminate arcing in the plate tank ciruit. The DC+RF+modulation is a little too much.
The mod tansformer will go down to 80hz according to Timtron
He was even surprised! Typical military spec, though

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #60 on: February 03, 2010, 10:17:55 PM »


Love the shack shot... way too neat and orderly for moi, could never manage that!

The cat is a great touch, but the thing that makes it for me is the photo of the Heathkit SB line rig on the wall! I mean, how cool is that? The juxtaposition in time is what makes it for me, the Glube Kling and the T-3 both predate it, and they are there live, while the "modern" Heath is a picture on the wall!

 Grin

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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
Ott
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« Reply #61 on: February 04, 2010, 06:21:56 AM »

Roger the Timtron info on the tank circuit.
The blocking capacitor will eliminate arcing in the plate tank ciruit. The DC+RF+modulation is a little too much.
The mod tansformer will go down to 80hz according to Timtron
He was even surprised! Typical military spec, though

Fred
If you don't want remove the DC from the tank as in Fred's remarks you might want to to better insulate the tank coil from the chassis as shown... it's an electrically tight spot there at the end and it's my understanding that when (not if) the tank coil arcs you will most likely loose the plate current meter... even with the meter diode protected...


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