CW Key

[xe1yzy]

Guys...

In your opinion, what should be the most important features in a CW key, and what characteristics divide a simple Key from a high performance?, both  types ,straight and paddles.

Thanks

[W1UJR]

My two cents...

Correct height above the table, lever is right height as to avoid causing wrist fatigue or "glass arm".

Moderate spring pressure, not too hard, but not so soft as to bounce contacts.

Rigid design, some keys are "mushy", you feel the lever bend when depressing, not good, should feel "snappy".

Solid contact, or a definite stop, the Nye "Master Key" uses a microswitch rather than a set of metal on metal contacts.
I find it takes some time for me to get use to it, vs sending with a Bencher or Vibroplex key.
Their firm contacts also serve as a mechanical stop.

Heavy base so it does not "walk" about the table when sending.
The old timers used to screw their keys to the desktop to prevent this.

The right knob, I prefer the "Navy" knob to anything else for a straight key, but in any case, something you can rest your fingers on comfortably and allows the proper "grip".

I like the Bencher straight key, next the Vibroplex straight key, and finally the "Nye "Master Key".

Nice thing on the Bencher key, its available in a black wrinkle finish.
The Vibroplex is just chrome, but still looks good next to vintage gear because of its buzzardly design. The Nye key is also black wrinkle.

These are just my personal observations and preferences, yours may be quite different.


73 Bruce


Take a few moment review the section in Pierpont's excellent tone "The Art and Skill of Radio Telegraphy" -->> http://www.raes.ab.ca/TASRT/c09b.htm

[AF9J]

Hmmm let's see.  I have  a straight key, a bug, and a paddle.

1.  Key factors
     
     a.  Fingerpiece or Knob height - the higher the knob is off of the table , the better it
                                                       works for european sending style (where your arm is
                                                       off of the table, and the sending is mainly controlled
                                                       by forearm movement).  The lower the knob is off of
                                                       the table, the more suited the key is for the american
                                                       style of sending (where your forearm rests on the
                                                       table, and wrist movement has more influence on
                                                       your sending).
     
     b.  Spring tension adjustability - everybody has different prferences for spring
                                                         tension.  But from my personal experience, it's very
                                                         annoying to have a key that can only be set for a
                                                         soft movement, or a stiff movement.
 
     c.   Tight pivot points - you want a key bug, or paddle with tight pivot points, so that
                                         it does not have excessive wiggle in it's movement.  Otherwise
                                         you will be fighting the key, paddle or bug - especially at
                                         higher sending speeds.

     d.  Knob size/shape - do you want to grab the knob (in which case a smaller one is
                                        better), or just rest your fingers on it (in which case a larger
                                        navy style knob is best).  This was the reasons why I got rid of
                                        my vibroplex paddle, and switched to my Bencher paddle.

     e.  Size and/or weight of the base - if the base is too light, the key will walk around 
                                                              the table while you're sending.   This is the
                                                              especially the case when you are sending at
                                                              higher speeds.   This is one of the reasons why
                                                              I'm not wild about using my Bencher RJ-1 straight
                                                              key at speeds much above 15 WPM.  It walks too
                                                              much, and I end up fighting it.


Above about 20 WPM you can use a straight key, but it is easier (and you're usually more accurate) with a bug or a keyer/paddle combination.  Bugs are cool, but are a pain to adjust for speed. Also, there's an art to setting them up properly for decent swing when you send dits, and parts for Vibroplex bugs that use square weights are getting harder to find, since these bugs are no longer made.   Keyers and paddles are easier to set up (and are my choice for really high speed CW - 30 WPM or more),  but are admittedly pretty blah looking compared to a bug.

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[W4EWH]

In your opinion, what should be the most important features in a CW key, and what characteristics divide a simple Key from a high performance?, both  types ,straight and paddles.

If you're just learning to send, I recommend you use a "cootie" key, aka a "side-swiper". I've always regretted that I learned on the same Radio Shack "straight" key as everybody else, because over the years I have developed "glass arm" - not from keying, but from keyboarding - and now I need to learn to send right-handed even though I'm a southpaw.

Check out http://www.mtechnologies.com/cootie.htm. There's a lot of good info available.

Whatever choice you make, please do yourself a favor and pay proper attention to ergonomics. Here's a Utube video that shows how not to do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2XTPZ0Or9s&feature=related

You'll thank me in twenty years.

HTH.

73, Bill W1AC

[k4kyv]

I prefer a bug for any prolonged period of sending.  I have tried using an iambic keyer and paddles but I never could get past sending errors.  I could start out and do very well, but after a few minutes I begin to make occasional mistakes, which increase in frequency until every other letter has to be sent over again - frustrating for me and the person at the other end.  I never have felt that I could get full control of the keyer.

I recommend a good, solid, velvet-smooth bug.  My best one is a well-worn 1929 vintage Vibroplex original that probably saw many years of landline service. It is a pleasure to use, and has practically no contact bounce.  I have another Vibroplex Original, made post WW2.  It is very stiff and has mucho contact bounce that I have never been able to tame.  I have even tried damping the dot contact with rubber, without success.  IMO the thing is a piece of junk.

With my old bug, I can send for hours and the key itself seems to become an interface between me and the transmitter, much like the microphone when I am on AM, and not the main focus of attention when I am sending.

The automatic keyer paddle that impressed me the most was one that I tried out one time at Dayton, called the March Magnetic paddle.  The magnets were set up to repel each other instead of attracting, giving it the kind of solid feel that I prefer, much like my bug.  I think that is because the force of repulsion increases as you squeeze together the contacts, which simulates a real mechanical spring.  With keys using magnets set up the more usual way to attract, the magnetic force decreases as you squeeze the contacts together, giving the key a flimsy feel.  But since I was already perfectly happy with my bug, I didn't feel like paying the $250 he was asking for the March paddle.

BTW, I never had any problem switching between bug and iambic paddle.  I once had both set up, and could literally switch keys in the middle of a word and the person on the other end didn't know it, until the errors would begin to creep in when I sent with the keyer.

My Bencher paddle has now been collecting dust on the shelf for about 8 years.

One note of caution, I wouldn't recommend using a bug or electronic keyer to directly cathode key a transmitter.  My homebrew rigs run about 40 milliamps on the cathode of the keyed stage, with about 500 volts on the plate.  The Gates  runs more like 250 milliamps!  Any one of those transmitters would pit up the contacts on a bug and probably destroy the switching transistor in a typical modern day keyer.  Plus, you can get a nasty shock if you happen to get your fingers across the contacts.

I use an electronic keying relay, which employs a TV sweep transistor rated to switch several amps at something like 1500 volts.  I have used it for years, based on circuit design in a circa 1980 ARRL handbook.  One thing I could never make mine do is to smooth out the key clicks by using an R-C network between the first DC amplifier stage and the sweep transistor.  Instead, I use a normal coil/capacitor key click filter between the main switching transistor and the cathode circuit, similar to the ones described in the 1930's handbooks for use with straight keys.  I used much trial and error with small chokes on hand, along with various values of capacitance, until I came up with a good keyed waveform.  Each transmitter  has its own custom filter, since optimum values will be different for keying tubes with different cathode currents and plate voltages.

With my electronic keying circuit, the bug handles only about 8 volts DC at a couple of milliamps.

An old navy CW operator once gave me a tip about using a bug.  Since mine keys such a low voltage, it is not enough to burn off the dust that settles between the dot contacts, which makes the dots sometimes skip and sound mushy.  He recommended using a brand new piece of paper currency as a burnishing tool.  It really works.  I keep a $2 bill that I picked up unused at the bank several years ago in the drawer just for that purpose.

[KL7OF]

I have added extra weight (small pc of solder) to my vibroplex to slow down the dot rate...I send at about 10-12 WPM and it works well with the extra weight....
   Don ... send me that pc of junk post WW2 bug.....I heard you on 3705 last night..loud and clear..

[AF9J]

I tell you Don,

Setting up a bug sure involves a lot of trial and error.  I've been using bugs since 1982.  I had my Vibroplex Lightning Bug set up perfectly, from years of minor tweaking.  Then like a big dummy, I went and sold it 2 years ago to another ham, because it was collecting dust.  I regretted it within a month.  So, for something different, I bid on a Vibroplex Champion Bug on ePay.  I got it cheap (about $53), but it sure is ratty.  It's usuable, but because parts are worn on it, I can't get the damping to settle down.  Unfortunatley, parts for square weighted bugs are getting hard to find.

As for keyers - years of bug use pretty much screwed me up for double lever paddles.  I just can't get comfortable with them.  Soooo, I use a Bencher single lever, which allows me to send bug style.  I love it!

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[WU2D]

I like the J37 and J38 for straight keys - very old buzzardly and fun to use on mil surplus stuff.

I took to the double paddle bencher almost immediately when I got my first one several years ago - it is a great machine and I use it with a curtis chip. But I never got completely used to it and can not send confidently above 20 WPM. I also have not figured out iambic keying even though the Bencher and Curtis do it nicely.

I also have trouble using the bencher with clunky changeover systems.

Mike WU2D

[xe1yzy]

Thanks a lot to all, well, my love for the CW begins many years ago, maybe at the same time of my passion for old rigs, due to the fact, That CW was the only way to operate my old transmitters, not to much people unfortunatly makes AM in my country.

But this time I want to go a little more further, Im a Mechanical Engenieer, and I like to desing and manufacture mechanical devices, so I has been thinking in desing a great CW key, not only based in what a think is important, also I want to open my ears to catch the ideas and expectations of other CW operators.

In Mexico we have beautifull marble stones, brass, and silver, a good materials to combine and make a nice key, and my city is well know for the craftmanship of his people, so let see what can do, I want a paddle an a straight key.

Again, thanks a lot, your are great people!

Pedro XE1YZY

[c. mac neill w8znx]

key one op loves is the same key another op hates

thousands of ops
will tell you how much they love their J-38

i can not stand the J-38
think of it as a instrument of pain
thought all straight keys were like the J-38

till i discovered
big high pump handle straight keys
like the Swedish style keys

only low profile straight key i like
is the German milsurplus Junker
which i use European style
right at the edge of the table

for long rag chew work
i use a 70 plus year old Lightning bug
bought it at Dayton for 35 bucks

it looks like its been in a war
its missing the shorting bar/switch and Vibroplex tag
base has been repainted

and a 40 year old Champ Vibroplex
gift from a CFO* over 20 years ago

paddles prefer the Shurr Profi II

mac

* cfo   chicken fat op

[nq5t]

Here's my 2 cents worth which isn't worth much.

Straight keys -- (1) Begali Spark, (2) Kent Professional  (Available only from Kent UK direct AFIK).  Both are very smooth, and have the Navy style knobs at precisely the right height.  I have an intense dislike for the V'plex straight key, and the Schurr -- while the iambic is good (but see below)  -- is horrid.

Iambic -- I have a bunch -- Vibroplex, Schurr, G4ZPY, March (very early, though),  and some others.  There is simply nothing that even comes close to Begali.  The Signature is absolutely positively worth every Euro.  Next in line would be the inexpensive but very good and tactile Vibroplex.  The V'plex iambic is a fine and typically ignored key when fine keys are listed, IMHO.

Bugs -- I have a bunch of Vibroplexes -- new and old.  They're all very good, but my favorite is any vintage of the Lightning Bug.  It's too bad that line hasn't been revived.  What actually gets used consistently is a GHD optical.  Smooth as a newborn's arse and NO bounce, whatsoever, ever.  It isn't vintage, will have some difficulty with most vintage radios and takes a 12v supply for the optical switch. Can't beat a Lightning Bug for vintage radios.

Grant/NQ5T