The AM Forum

I picked up an NC183D recently cheap.  It was a in need of alot of cleaning and work. The radio had a bad china 6v6 so audio was shotty.  New RCA 6v6s, caps, cord, and dial lamps the radio came back to life. I will do the full alingment next, its off as stations sound very dull when tuned spot on.   It also has a breadboard Xtal Calibrator using an IC chip.  This is wired to the phono switch. It works with a nice signal.  Considered ripping this mod out.

The question here is about the color of the rig. This one is a very light grey/ light blue.  It does not match the NC300, the HRO 50t, HRO 60, at all.  Its much lighter.  I was told this is a rare color by a fellow ham.  I cant find any of them painted like this on the web.  It is factory paint and not a repaint. 

I dont see much on the web other then specs.  I guess I will have a heck of a time trying to find the correct speaker for this odd ball.

This one has the same transformer as the one you have Frank.  It runs warm. Real warm.  All Caps replaced EXCEPT the 25UF near the audio section and one up under the edge.  I will replace them tomorrow.

Anything sore spots on the old 183D that need attention?

My 183-D is the color of the speaker in the pic.  Never saw one with the light gray color.  Maybe it was a special order color.  I sure someone will know.

Fred

Yep. Thats what I am finding on the web.  Kinda odd.  It matches the T3 and the T368 dummy load/watt meter to a T.  I mean its exactly the same military color.

C

Clark, the NC 183D is the same color as the speaker in the picture.  Someone repainted that one either because it was the color available or wanted it to match something.  Duplicolor makes a Truck/Pickup paint that is close and has the same sheen.  I don't recall the number but check your auto parts store if you are a mind to change it.

Its not a repaint. Its factory.  I have been all inside this thing and removed brackets under the chassis. Its also silk screened.

C

I've never seen a NC183* variant with a silk screened panel either.  Either engraved (like my NBS-1) or stamped/recessed lettering like the 183, 183D, etc.

I just walked out to the radio and looked.  Its silk screened right over the top.  No engraving or stamping.  Very odd.  I cant find a serial number anywhere on this thing. Where would the serial number be?

C

I have one that is the same light gray color.  I purchased it around 15 years ago.  It was certainly repainted and the lettering was silkscreened too.  I also have the speaker that was restored the same light gray color.  I have never seen another one the same color until the one posted here.  I just assumed the restorer liked the lighter gray color.

What type of tubes does that receiver have in the RF and IF sections?  If they are Loctal you have a NC 183 not the D version.  They were that color and had silk screened panels.

Maybe it's a prototype, if it doesn't have a serial number.
  I have a Collins 75A-3 that does not have a serial number and it also has some little details that are different than other 75A-3's.  Maybe it's a prototype also.

The NC-183 (not D) has mostly metal octal tubes if they are original.    They did not have the black dial or knobs.

I had a 183 rackmount a few years ago. 

It was black wrinkle on the panel, all octal layout. 

Also it had a GSA tag, so it was at some time in gov't employ.

73DG

Who knows, I got it cheap and its working fairly well.  Going to finish it tonight/tomorrow.  The S meter might need replacement. It is not going through its whole range of motion.  I am hoping an alignment will fix this.  I need to go through the AGC section of the radio.  With the AGC on, BC stations distort the front end, I have to back down the gain to clear it up.  It is working, just not correctly. 

C

"""""I have a Collins 75A-3 that does not have a serial number """""

Workers at the Collins factory could BUILD their own radios. Just pay for the schematics and parts.

I suspect it is a first run set and using NC-173/183 colors. Does it have a 6J5 or 6SN7 as the phase inverter?

The serial is in the right rear inside, get your head all the way in and look straight down. What is the #?

Carl

372-1006.   I missed it before. The chassis is kind of corroded.  It has 6SN7, 6ba6, 6be6 ect. 

I spent some time with it today.  I cleaned the switches, Replaced the remaining caps and did the 455,1720 alignment. This thing was way way off.  I also did the AVC alignment. Some monkey turned that as well. 

This thing is HOT HOT HOT.  The AVC works but not enough.  BC stations require me to back down the RF gain to 8 on the dial.  I checked the resistors, tubes, caps ect.  I think its just strong stations blasting the thing.  Some of my other RXers do the same thing.  Some dont.

What I need is an S meter.  Its lowest point is S9.  It will read over that, But never below S9.   If anyone has an S meter, I would be greatfull.

C

I had started a thread about 2 weeks ago about it running hot.  I have a NC-183D also.  The best thing that I did was go to RatShack and get a 3A 6.3V transformer and buck the line.  It lowered the voltage down to around 110V and it runs MUCH cooler.  As for the AVC, I have to back the RF Gain down on mine when I am tuned into a really strong station such as a local.  I have a 1KW AM about 1.5 miles from my QTH.


Tom - AB3FL

First verify that the problem is mechanical, not electrical.  Try a battery in series with a 1 meg or so pot and see if it moves OK throughout its range that way.

If it's mechanical, you might have a piece of crap stuck in the meter armature.  Those meters come apart easily.  Inspect it and see what the problem is - bent needle, iron filings in the armature, the armature is off its bearing, the bearing is adjusted too tightly, etc.

If there's stuff in the armature, you can often remove it by CAREFULLY drawing a small piece of masking tape thru it.  With luck the filings will stick to the tape and be pulled out.  This takes some patience and a steady hand.

I really liked the color of the NC-183D, and it was fairly close to the color of the HRO-60.

(http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Radios/HRO-60/Natrcvrs1.jpg)

You guys having trouble with the AGC must have something wrong.  Try a new 6AH6 first then if that doesn't fix it try alignment.  If that doesn't fix it check the voltage out of the transformer associated with the tube.  I have seen as much as
-20 volts on the grid of the first RF amp.  That knocked down the signal level of a 50 KW station located not much more than 10 miles from me.   Something is wrong.

The 6BA6 has a history of H-K leakage when run hot as from leaky caps killing the AGC voltage for a few decades and there are 5 of them involved. The 6BE6 can also suffer leakage when run hot for other reasons.

Check the individual grid voltages and I'll bet at least one is well out of spec with or without a signal.

National did a lot of repaints when coming thru the service department so dont expect a perfect match across the models. Ive also seen HRO-50/60 and 183D cabinets also go thru the same day.

That set is ER372 which is fairly early, maybe 1954, and one of the first with the 6SN7. Its also possible it got a factory or outside full repaint at some point; National did it completely and not like Earl Scheib. ::)

I will have some time today to check the Grid volts.  It distorts badly on a local 1kW AM station. I have some tubes to swap in, I have already tested them on the Tv7 and they dont show leak and show strong but you never know.

I think I will complete this one and pass it on to someone that needs/wants it.  That picture Mike put up of his Spotless Grey NC183D keeps flashing in my head. I would rather have that color and condition so it can sit next to the 60 and 50.

C

Ok. I spent a few hours with the rig today.

1.  The S meter is not broken. Its the rig.  The S meter wont go below about 10 DB over 9.

What caused me to believe the S meter was bad was this video:

http://youtu.be/iH8MOJ6nOLc

It seems that SOME NC183Ds have the meter resting at 0 when off and some rest at full scale when off!!!    In that video, that mans reciver is clearly OFF and its at 0.  I googled searched NC183D and started looking at photos and found some at ) and some at 60DB when off.  WTF???l  MINE reads full scale when oFF and when you turn it on, the needle Drops down towards 0 or trys.

I found that the S meter pot was 1K.  Its listed at 2 meg.  I got a 1 meg out of the junk Drawer and put that in. No change.  Zeros to the same spot. I then put my Resistor sub box in line and tried different resistors.  No change. The meter wont read below 10DB.  The meter WILL read above this with a strong station as normal.

2.  I have - 2.8 volts on the Grid of the first Tube after the AVC.  If I rotate the RF gain control this goes to -24 volts. 

If I Flip the AVC OFF, the volts go to -1.2 and distorts badly.  I checked ALL the caps and resistors one by one and found nothing bad.  The rig was already recapped at some point. B+ voltages are very close to the chart on all tubes.

So what ever causes the AVC to CLAMP down harder, Is not doing its job. The 6ah6v tube that is in there tests strong on the TV7. I do not have another. I can order some tomorrow.  I did pull the tube and the audio is full on distorted.  So the tube is working but not as strong as it should. I have to back the RF gain down to 7 or 8 to get it to clear up.

I did find that someone installed those yellow tubular style capacitors in this section and I cant get a reading on TWO of them with the cap checker. They show 047 on the label but measure .15 on the new cap checker.  I lost interest before clipping them out.  Maybe tomorrow. They look brand new and are marked 630 volt.  They seem to be polarized.  I am going to clip them out and wire in some new 047 Orange Drops for good measure They are not polarized so it wont matter which way I put them in.

My last effort will be those caps and to order new 6ba6s and a new 6ah6 tube in the morning.  Past that I am lost.  Anyone have any suggestions?

What is the deal with teh S meter?  Is this S meter the wrong one?

C

The meter is right provided you have the 6SN7 phase inverter and meter driver.  If you have the 6C5 phase inverter the meter works differently and rests at 0 when the set if off.

You don't say where the caps are that don't read right on your checker or what kind of checker it is.  You may be on to something if they are bad.  The 6C5 phase inverter version has the 2 meg pot the 6SN7 has a 1K.  Check to see which version you have and follow that diagram.  I have the 6C5 version and setting the pot doesn't work like the other.

When it works right, that is a fine receiver.  I wouldn't get rid of it too fast, but that is a personal opinion.  They work very well when everything is right and they are as sensitive as one can find.  Be very careful around C48 the coupling cap from the last IF to the AGC amp.  In the wrong place it can cause you grief. 

Also be certain you follow the alignment instructions for the AGC transformer.  From the voltage reading you mention, it sounds like it is ok but check other stages for a similar voltage change without a signal and with one.

Thanks Jim.

I have the 6sn7 and I think I have some spares. So I will go swap one in and see if the meter starts to work.  The Schematic shows 2000 on the Pot for the meter.  Either way, I have plenty of pot there.

I did the AVC transformer alignment when I aligned the rest of the rig. It was way off. Someone tried to adjust it. I tried again today and I will now have to go back and align it again. I did get a sharp nul when adjusting it the first time around so I know it is working.

I will now redo the alignment for the AVC, Swap in an another 6sn7 and then check all the caps/resistors around the 6sn7.  The meter thing really annoys me.  I can back off the RF gain an bit, thats not a deal breaker.

C

That was easy,  I changed the caps and did the AVC alignment again.  This time the Null was much better and now the AVC is working. Its clear on strong BC stations and when I flip AVC off its major overload.   SUCCESS!!

I swapped the 6SN7 tube with the one from the HRO 60. No change.  I then started checking the resistors around that tube.  I found the 25 UF cap (cathode of push pull audio)  popped.  Not sure why.  I used a 50 volt 22 UF cap. I Did not have anymore so I used a 47 UF at 350 volt.  I found that 330 ohm resistor was 100 ohms.  I changed it out to new 330ohm 2 watt and put the 47 uf cap in. 

No change.  S meter is 10 DB over with the  rig tuned off of a station and its also 10 db over when in standby.   So this is the minimum reading I can get still.  On strong BC stations, it pegs out as normal.

Anything else to check on that Pesky S meter?

C

Clark check to see that you have AVC action on all tubes where it is attached.  That should be the 1st and 2nd RF and 1st and 2nd IF amps.  You should see the grid voltage vary on all 4 tubes from low to high are you tune in a strong signal.  If it doesn't then look to see where you are loosing it.

What does the S meter do when the set is turned on and you disconnect the antenna and short the terminals?  Are you using a coax input with one terminal grounded or balanced input for the antenna?

If I ground the antenna terminal, The meter goes to 10 DB over 9.  If I unhook the antenna, It goes to 10 DB over 9.  I can change bands, It goes to 10 DB over nine.

10Db over 9 is the baseline for NO signal. 

The AVC as of now is fixed.  I tuned all around the BC band and nothing distorts the Front end anymore.

I started checking resistors at that 6SN7 tube,  ALL of them are seriously out of spec.  Like double, or tripple out of spec.  I stopped and shut everything down.  When I have time tomorrow, I am going to have to start changing resistors.  I am sure this is the problem  Not one of those dang resistors in that audio section is even CLOSE to what the schematic or the value of the resistor itself is supposed to be.

I am looking at about 20 bad resistors would be my guess.  I have come this far, Why not finish it?  Once its working 100%, i will pass it on to another AM'r that wants it and then put that money towards a clean Grey tone reciever that will match the 50 and 60 on the table.

meanwhile, If you can think what in that circiut would cause the S meter to never zero, Let me know :)
C

Normal, I have an NC-300 I had 5 S-units of noise I change most of the Resisters bam noise floor droped mine was in I F over load bad resisters so any over 10% value change it!

One thing to check on all tube is the screen resisters!

Do check all the screen resistors and bypass caps but I looked back and you said you have a 1K pot for the zero function of the meter.  That pot should be 1K, that is R 39.  Be sure the values of R 31, 49, 69 and 71 are all correct.

" If I unhook the antenna, It goes to 10 DB over 9.  I can change bands, It goes to 10 DB over nine.  "


Well, at least you would be honest fer the corntest signal reports....


klc

This is not noise or static.  The speaker is silent. This is the S meter not returning to 0. Even shorted Antenna jack, it reads 10 DB over 9.  I am sure its the resistors.  After doing some last minute Xmas shopping, I am going to start changing them.

I am having a tough time here.  The manual on BAMA is for the 183D with the 6J5. Anyone have the manual or schematic for the later version?

C

WE FIXED IT.  Thanks for the help Jim!

I replaced those resistors you listed and the the S meter Zeros perfectly and swings up on strong stations.  I am so happy right now.  The main culprit was the 47K ohm resistor on Pin 5 of the 6sn7!  It checked 315K.   When I replaced that one resistor, the rig came to life.

AVC FIXED!
S meter FIXED!
Audio tone quality FIXED!

Its actualy a really strong and great sounding rig!

Clark

Congrats Clark,  Don't use it too long, you will want to keep it.  Actually I have a third one that I have refurbished.  I regret selling or trading the previous two so much that when this one came along I couldn't resist and am planning to keep it.  Easy to band change, sensitive, good looking and sounds wonderful.  Did you check the cap used to change tone.  In mine it is a ceramic but I believe in yours it may be a paper.

Duplicolor makes a Grey paint for their Pickup and Truck line of paint in a spray can that is a good match for it.  I don't remember the color but is has just a bit of flake in the paint like all of the 183D receivers I have seen.  Since the lettering is engraved you can take the case completely apart, strip the paint and repaint with the Duplicolor it is only a bit lighter but is really pretty when done right.

Then using the white laquer stick, redo the lettering.  Be sure to cover it with at least two clear coats and you will have a keeper.

All the paper caps have been changed out already. The only original caps that are left are the green national brand .01s and they check right at .01 on my new digital cap checker.

The tone does work.

There are some minor gripes with the set. 

1.  The tuning and band spread slip.   I cleaned and oiled the bushings very carefully.  This helped free up the main cap and helped things.  I also used a seringe to inject some naptha(lighter fluid) into the friction point of the large wheels and knobs. This really helped matters.  There must have been some greese or oil in there.  Its not smooth but no longer slips every time you turn the knob.

2.  If you turn the volumn down all the way, There is still sound.  You cant cut the audio 100%.  Its possible its just the volumn pot. I will have to look around for one. Its not that big of a deal really. Its very low and you can flip to standby if you get a phone call or someone walks in the room.


The overall condition of the rig is Average at best. There is alot of corrosion on the chassis.  I really dont want to put more time or money into it.  As of right now, Its working and someone will enjoy it.  Its playing the local Am BC station and sounding great. 

I really want a super nice NC183D.  I am sure I will find one someday! I feel good that a saved a junker from the scrap heap!
C

You missed the other 6 tubes that could be causing the distortion.

ALL six tubes have the correct voltages. There is no longer any distortion. I fixed the problem yesterday Carl

Thats what happens when I dont see Page 2, chalk it up to a senile citizen brain fart ::)

In my case it is temporary Alzheimer's Carl.  Glad you have only brain farts.

I found my Girl this morning.  Very CLEAN and nice NC183D in the correct Gun metal Grey color.  I got this at the Thunderbird ham fest from a fellow AM'r.  Great price.  At first she was dead.  Then about 15 minutes later, I hear loud static from the other room. I run it and she is playing right along.  A tube or a cap must have come back to life. 

As of now, Everything seems normal.  I am going to let this play for the rest of the day and then open up the bottom and have a look. 

Serial 328 0248  Any idea of when this was made and how it fits into the production run Carl?

I will probably recap the rig and check, replace resistors, depending on what I find when I go inside. 

I am pleased to have very nice HRO60, HRO50T and now NC183D!

The other good news is that the Light blue NC183D we fixed in this thread is going to a good home.  A fellow ham and Am'r that is fairly new to the AM community will have the Reciever running with his Ranger. I think this will be a step up over his HQ110 and the 110 can be used with his Viking2. I passed it on at cost with no profit. 

Clark

National sure made some good-looking, good sounding, well engineered radios! :D\

73DG

Wait just a minute Clark.  :o :o I saw that slot machine in the background!! Just what kind of joint are you running there?  ??? ???  ;D ;D

Mike

What old boatanchor isn't another gamble? ;)

73DG

January 1952 which means it should have a 6J5.

Carl

6J5.  Is this good or bad Carl?  Convert it?  What was the main reason?  It seems to work perfectly. I checked all the bands and the more time, It plays the better she sounds and works.

P.S the slot machine is a japanese slot out of a gambling parlour in japan.  Its really neat. It has an LCD screen and plays animation when you win and loose.  I also have japanese Pinball, and a bar top video poker and of course the air hocky table that now holds 200lbs of national radios at present time!

C

First, quit playing with it until its been completely recapped or the lytics and papers in the audio stages unless you want smoked iron for dinner. They are tempermental enough as is especially if its an original.

Early 183D's for the 99th time had a 6J5 phase inverter as did the 183, afer a few runs it was changed to a 6SN7.

The BAMA schematic is for the 6J5. I have a PDF of a later, June 1954, 6SN7 manual if anyone needs it. Just added it to the files.

Carl

I realize the 6j5 was in the early radios and was replaced with the 6sn7. I was asking why.  Jeeeeez.

I turned it off and unplugged it.  Your right about the caps.  I will get to work next week on it in my spare time.  All new caps, cord, and will go through the resistors.

C

The WHY was cuz they redid the S meter circuit and needed an amp and didnt want to have to produce a new chassis so went to a dual triode 6SN7.

AHhh.  Oh. Fair enough.  Thanks!

C

 :)
Hi guys, 

I'm new to this fine forum and I found it searching for info on my "new" Nat NC-183D.  Love it!

A few days ago I found a listing for all the color mixing scheems used on the various Shortwave receivers.  I looked all morning and can't find it now.. but when I do I'll post it here.  I'm telling you this cuz you may be able to find it too..  I was looking for modifications for my 183.  (which I haven't been able to find??)

When painting the case, I've seen one guy on Uteby put a special "masking" or tape over the knob labels.  Then he painted it and pulled off the masking.  It left little rectangles and squares were the masking was and where the labels were the background was a different color.

I have to paint my case as I've got a few scratches and dings and I need to find out just how to do this.  I'm thinking that if I just paint over the labeling and later go back with a sharp tool or something, I can scrape some of the paint I sprayed into the labels and then refill the letters with white model paint (Testors model paint)...

What do you guys ('n' gals) do for this job? ;D

Scotty
N7CTF

If the panel is engraved you can repaint this your self easily.  Sand down the chassis using a buzz sander.  Then use a primer coat and sand again by hand Once its perfectly smooth, Repaint the chassis.  

For the lettering,  Get some water based white paint from a crafts store. They sell this paint in small plastic bottles very cheap.  Also get a small foam small brush while you are there.

Paint the engraving with the goal of filling the engraving with paint. Then take a piece of printer paper and tear off  a 2 inch wide strip.  Wipe across the lettering to remove the excess paint.  You will be left with perfect white lettering, like the factory had.  It also helps to have a damp cloth handy to clean up the excess paint as it dries. Its water based paint so you have nothing to worry about and this cant really go wrong. I used this on my R390 panel and filled the panel lettering back in using this meathod. It came out perfect.


C

more

 ;)

Sounds good!..  Just go for it and don't worry about the writing.  Then fill it and wipe.

Thanks.

Now if I can only find that paint color file not that it matters a lot because I'm going to paint the whole case inside and out.

Now.. I just need to figure out which mods are more important than others.. One place I read the guy was talking about "flattening" out the Audio section.. That's a good idea.  It would be nice to be able to bring up the bass area too.

Another stated that the sensitivity is less on the higher frequencies.  That would be a good thing to fix too.

I don't think I need anything to enhance SSB sigs.  Nor do I need an FM detector. 

I'm still waiting for some tubes..  caps.. and I noticed already that many of those resistors are NOT the value marked.  This might take a while!   :'(
Scotty
N7CTF

Have the paint matched at car paint supplier.  Thats what I would do.

All the caps are bad and will have to be replaced.  Work at one tube at a time. All caps, All resistors need to be checked and replaced.  Its sad, But the resistors are likely all bad.

C

 :'(

Sniff Sniff...  OK..  :'(

I guess that's why I do this.  Started with little ALLAmerican 5  radios.. The hit my old Heathkit GR54!.. Then on to my Heath Sb102!  Now.. Boatanchors!..

Me Happy! ;D
Scotty
N7CTF ::)

I strongly disagree - ALL caps will NOT be bad.  The filters and bypasses, perhaps, but they'll need replacing anyway.  You might find an odd silver mica that's bad but those generally hold up fairly well.  In any event do NOT go nuts replacing the low value micas without verifying they are bad.

Although National used crap resistors I seldom find one that needs more than a few replaced.  Check every resistor, though, because they do have a habit of changing value or, in the case of 220K resistors all measuring 22K (or vice versa, can't remember) perhaps National got some mislabled resistors from the factory.

An easier method of panel lettering is to use a lacquer stick.  It's a "pen" that goes on as kind of a thick paste and collects in the engravings but doesn't stick too well to the panel.   I've tried every paint method known to man to fill engraving and the lacquer stick method works by far the best.

Finally, if you don't want to go to the expense of having custom paint mixed, there's a Duplicolor charcoal for GM trucks that's VERY close to the original color.  You can only tell side-by side; however, it has a bit more metallic in than I'd like.  Good primer and plenty of sanding in between coats, taking care to clean the cabinet well between each coat, will give you an outstanding looking radio.

 :)

Sounds like a good idea, I'll see if I can find one of those pens or lacquer sticks.  I've got a white grease pencil.  I don't think that would be very permanent though.
I'll be checking things as I go anyway.  the only ones I just pull out are the Ecaps.  Then I'll fire it up and see what I've got before continuing.
I told my Wife that I was going to repaint it and she thought it was a bad idea.. She said " this case has character!  Shows a bit of the life it lived for 40+ years" ! ..  And she's kinda right.  It's not that bad, a couple scratches here and there and little fingernail scratches around some of the controls and knobs.  The usual wear you'd expect.  A couple spots of rust on the chassis.  All in all a clean machine after I used my Windex and Simple Green cleaners on the case and chassis. 

Scotty
Just had to try that marque thing.  ;D

I bet that 10-15 resistors will be well out of tolerance and I wouldnt worry about ceramic or mica caps unless you have a problem that points to one.

Tighten all ground connections and dont overlook that bare ground wire that connects all the antenna coils together; there is often a bad solder joint at the ground lug.

Carl

Do be sure to check the IF stages screen resistors.  I have seen several of these radios with bad screen by pass caps in the IF section as well.  They run hot so the screen resistors tend to drift. 

Yeah. That was kinda stupid using "ALL".  In my mind I was thinking ALL paper bypass caps. 

The resistor count will be high but it depends on what you consider out of tolerance.. 10%, 20, 50?   

Just check them to be sure.

Agree 100%, Clark.  Also the panel lettering method you described works very well for radios with deep engraving like the R-390.  Not so well with shallow and thin engraving (which appears to be actually stamped, not engraved), like National products.  Believe me, I've tried everything.  Even with the lacquer stick you might end up not being able to get good results on very thin areas... I have a NC-173 that has some really shallow lettering that I can't get entirely filled no matter what I try.

I have had success with a properly-sized Rapidiograph pen & white ink.  They ain't cheap, but you will have it forever if you take care of it.  It is a drafting instrument used for lettering by Koh-I-Noor.

It flows liquid ink into the groove very nicely, and you don't need to do any 'wiping'.  If your hand is good enough, you can letter panels with it in any color ink you can get.

73DG

For the engraved lettering, I have used white china markers.   They are like a white wax crayon, maybe a little harder.    Rub over the lettering until it is filled, then use a cotton cloth the rest off.

 :)
Yes, "white wax crayon" where the white is exposed by unwrapping a continuous paper?  that's the "grease" pencil I was referring to.

Thanks guys. 

The white crayon and unwinding the paper is the way National did it but for some reason I remember it as white lead??

The cabinets, including the Service Dept. overhauls, were a baked finish and we applied when they were still a bit warm and then just removed excess with alcohol on a rag.


Carl

On the last few cabinets I did, I baked them in an oven. This really smooths out the finish and makes it durable.

 

 ;D

Do ya gotta stick a fork in 'em when there done?

 :o :o :o :o :o ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)

I got my second and near mint NC183D recapped today.  I started in the morning and tested each cap and replaced them with PS series orange Drops. PS is 10% rating instead of 5%. 

I found all of the .1 bypass caps reading .15 to .18.   All of the new PS orange drops read .1 to .12. 

I found ONE .05 Sangamo (pink) in color that read .18.  I replaced it with the others. The Electrolytics where leaky.  I replaced them.  The 10UF at near the audio read 22 UF.  I replaced it with a 22 as that is what I had on hand. 

This did not take nearly as long as I thought.  I guess its because I just recapped the orignal 183D in this thread. I got a nice power cord out of a junk bin and wired it in to replace the old 2 prong cord. 

The radio is up and running and all functions work.  The Dials are spot on and the Rig is sensitive. The only issue is that the rig sounds muddy when tuned dead on a station.  I am going to do the IF alignment in the next couple days. I hope this clears up.  If I tune just off center of max s meter, the radio sounds very hi fi and clear.  But max s mter reading and all the highs go out. 

I have not tested the resistors, I ran out of time and energy.  I will do that in the next few days and button this rig up.  I am very pleased with it!

 ;D ;D ;D

Nice KE7TRP!  Real Nice.  Wow, on Efray, they sure are getting high prices for those nice Nat. speakers!  I'm using an old Stereo 8 ohm speaker.  Great Bass and crossover inside helps the highs.

I'm going to have to spend some time on Mouser and Digikey etc to see what I need.  I haven't seen PS orange Drops.  I may just order from my ol' place in Da North! 

Looking at some of my paper caps in my 183d.  The cap is labeled .047  and the drawing says it should be a .05 (C79 area).  The factory stock must have run out of the .05's and brought in a box of .047's..  Sure.. it's close enough for government work. :o :o :o

It seems that a whole bunch of National stuff that was reasonably priced has taken sudden leaps up in the past year or so. There are many new guys getting into BA's and find many models are no longer in their budget. The HRO-60 has gone thru the roof and they are far from scarce having been in production for 16 years.

The NC-200 and NC-240D are still sleepers that are good performers (PP 6V6 audio and great looks) especially with a 455kHz ceramic fiter kit added.

Nobody has mentioned this source, but I buy a lot of caps from euro dealers on eBay selling Russian military surplus.  Smokin' prices, too.

Great caps, be them poly, paper-in-oil, mica, eTc.  Real retro-style like Sprague and CDE, but made recently and not one out of the hundreds I've bought has been bad.

Two guys I deal with and never had a problem are kwtubes and hmlhml.

73DG

There are alot of new hams.  I think also a sad but try thing is that a generation of hams are releasing the gear, either as they SK or get ill.  Alot of my gear has come this way Carl.  Sad but true.

C

I sold three transmitters and receivers two years ago because of my age and the light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger.  Also, because of lack of space in a new house that is much smaller because we are getting older.  I still like em though and, in a pinch, would work on one for fun but not keep it.

My wife would have enough to do if something happens.

The first NC183D went to its new home today.  Its going to replace a hammy HQ160.  I think he will be pleased.  That NC183D had lots of sensitivity and really performed.

The second NC183D is complete as of today.  All the paper and molded caps have been replaced by PS series orange Drops. PS are 10% rating instead of 5% of the typical caps. Everything went smoothly and the rig is playing nicely.  Here is a short videa of it playing some BC station music.  This video also stars Toby the Golden retriever.

Thanks to all that helped me with these two Boat anchors.

C

http://youtu.be/pysFyA43hAA