The AM Forum

ever had a unexplainable string of bad stuff happen just when you didnt need it to?

after 115K on the original brakes on the RAM, passing inspection each year, the fronts decide to go out on us the same week we have to trailer a 1300 pound transmitter up and down the PA mountains.

ka ching  -$300 bucks.

On the way back from her workplace, (with me along) Glo takes a right hand turn a bit too close , a turn that just happens to have a utility pole about 10 inches off the curve on he inside. She clips the pole going about 35 with the right side mirror which saves itself by folding on it's hinge. busts out every inch of glass. truck body not even scratched. few little marks in passenger side window.

have to buy the whole right side mirror to fix it. Have to fix it because U haul wont let you have a trailer if any of the mirrors are gone/damaged.

ka ching -$400 bucks for new mirror and installation - putting it in wed. already paid.

The closer I get to moving day, the more unexpected costly WTF crap is happening.  >:(

flat front tire
rear end needs new brakes
rear end needs new spring shackles
A/C doesn't werk
critter ate up part of wiring harness
needs new exhaust system
chain saw busted
the house water heater started leaking
wife lost her job
the last two weeks wer interesting..... 

and Derb's got that gamma knife thing

but, its still a day above ground and 6m was open ......

klc

Went to put the 944 Turbo into storage last fall. Started it up a day early, cranked really slow. Went to adjust the mirror, came off in my hand. Drove to work, seemed like the heater was stuck on. Checked the battery at breaktime, 10 am, it was at 11 volts.. Stopped at autozone at 5, had them check the bat, 20 amps cranking power they said... geez, wonder why it cranked ever so slow.. gimme a new bat I said.

Fast forward... got the car outta storage.. The new bat works fine, got a glue kit for the mirror and it's back in place. And the heat doesn't seem like its on all the time.

Derb, I hope all goes well with your tx rescue.. seems like things always end up for the best in the end.. gud luck bro

tnx ed and all.....stuff happens all the time tis true but right now I just need this to go off without any more wierd out of the blue crap happening. :P

If you haven't already replaced that mirror, check with auto glass places.  Down here they will cut (or already have cut) a replacement mirror and install it if the frame isn't bent.  Last one I had replaced was about 50 bucks.

Derb,
I know you already paid, but,,,
I work for a Dodge parts dept. If you send me the last 9 of the VIN, I may have a take-off mirror avail. for a LOT less $$, or maybe a part number for just the glass, as long as the mirror adjusting mechanism is OK.
Reply here, or call me 406-212-0059

Been there, done that!  A squirrel crawled under the hood of our Dodge Caravan a few years ago.....ate up the wiring harness...cost over $2K to fix it!  Fortunately, it  was covered by insurance, but seems that I could have spliced those wires myself for $2K!! Hi Hi FB OM  .   :o :P

All aside Derb, best of luck with the moving project.  Hope everything goes well!

73,  Jack, W9GT

Could be worse, you could be the owner of this poor critter.... :o

WARNING: Graphic/Violent content with gushing fluids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfttA0mds-c&feature=email

ROGER on the glass place sticking on a new mirror. Needed one for the driver side. Seems like GM had a wasted idea for a mirror that would electronically darken if headlights were shining on it. Something about the oil inside the mirror. Glass shop pasted a stick on mirror for $35 instead of all out original.

We're going through a similar money drain as we prepare for our extended journey half-way around the Whirl. Things breaking............so far I am fixing stuff ok, just getting tired of additonal burdens.

Tim and Glo, take it slow and easy. It's a 250 mi hike and it's early Spring. Stop and breath fresh air.

Phred

That poor engine died a horrible gruesome death awful!!!!!!!!!

Fred, gimme a call on the phone. I've run out of money and had bad news on the cancer front today. Move is not going to happen this weekend.

Going to have to wait until the doctors figure out something new for me and I get enough money saved back up.  :(

Ray might have to hang out at your place some more - it's looking more likely that I'll have to go back to daily radiation treatments.  CyberKnife is NG for me - they cant use it on me.

here's the $400 mirror - this is where all my rigger money went.

To quote Rodney Dangerfield:

"It's been a rough day. I got up this morning, put a shirt on and a button fell off. I picked up my briefcase and the handle came off. I opened the closet and the door knob broke off..Now I'm afraid to go to the bathroom..."

It'll be OK, man.

Tim,

It sounds like it is too late for this time but the junkyard is your friend; your truck model is pretty common and parts (like a mirror) are going to be much cheaper than at the dealer.  Sort of like going to a hamfest :)  You can always get an independent shop to do the install (also cheaper than a dealer).

Damn that stinks but remember my friend, getting Ray will be all the more sweeter when it happens after all this frustration.   Victory is sweet.

just really bad timing. I'll hit the reset button and try again when I get up enough money to pay the riggers and hire some muscle on my end.

The mirror was the killer - if not for that I still would have been good to go. that was my money to pay them.... poof.

I can't believe $400 for a friggin mirror.  Anything to do with an automobile is a ripoff. I would have gone to Wal-of-China Fart and bought a shaving mirror about the right size, taken the glass out, and epoxied it in place inside the original frame, or else used filament tape to tape it in.  All you have to have to legally pull the trailer is a mirror, right?

I'm not thinking real quick these days.  I do know that when Glo moved down here and we towed her stuff in a 5X8 enclosed cargo u haul,  the guy went around the truck and checked both mirrors for folding motion and pulled them vertical too before he hooked us up. Also checked all the lamps.

I know the guy in Johnstown would have refused , I think it's just a matter of who you get..... but the one in J town was owned by uhaul itself. They have a big repair facility there.

too late? but maybe you could have silicon glued one of those big round mirrors on it for temporary. Done that and got by with an inspection. I am sure hatin to see all this stuff stacking up Derb. look, maybe that's the end of it. If I was closer I'd help move that rig myself. I have moved 1300 LB BTA250 myself before with a 1/2 ton pickup from Kansas to TX. Wasn't easy or anything, but I wish I could help.

Derb,
You may want to look into changing the mirror yourself.  I have done  changed at least 3 of them out and it took me no more than 30 minutes each.  I got the replacement mirror assembly on-line at a much lower cost than the dealer prices.  They were original OEM parts but at drastically reduced prices.  They came painted and all.  These were motorized jaspers and I paid right around 100 bucks.  On the ones that I did, I did not even have to remove the door panels.  Usually their is panel on the inside of your door that directly in back of the assembly.  You pop that off and get to the screws and away you go.  The connector is near-by and that's that. 
If all else fails, I think U hall may even rent mirror that temporarily attach to the door. 
Just some thoughts....
Joe, W3GMS   

Ooog...


Ummm... next time:


  Do NOT PANIC!!!!

I would have phoned the junk yard...
barring that, the glue in for a temporary fix - maybe double stick foam tape?

Ask on here first - seems like folks have a range of good ideas and solutions!!

                   _-_-bear

Derb,

The rental place will strap on a leased mirror to your truck for about $15 extra. Many customer trucks need them to extend out far enuff to see around the trailor, so they are popular.

Afterwards, do what the guys are saying - glue in a smaller mirror to the old frame and be done wid it. You can even stop by one of those plate glass places and they will custom cut your mirror cheaply - to fit FB.    F**k $400 for a mirror!

T

Replacement glass assy, for RH power folding trailer tow mirror,
part # 5191036AA, in stock in my store, retail price $47.35.
Is it too late to return your new mirror? The glass assy just snaps into place.
See this link... http://starparts.chrysler.com/tech_tips/en/TT9000398_en_US.html
Norm K7NCR

Norm, this one is not powered. you just snap it in where you want it  and adjust. I dont know if that makes a difference or not.

Will take this to the dealer and ask him why he claimed he cant get just the glass part could not order the glass. this for a 2004 1500 ST short bed with the factory towing package.

if the parts guy lied to me and I can prove it, I can get my money back. They already have it. we have to go up there 1 pm tomorrow.

Derb,
Call me at 406-212-0059 (my altell cell) and give me the last 9 digits of the truck's VIN number. I can tell for sure at that point what mirror it is and if a glass is avail. Call me after 7:30 AM Mountain time. Or post the info here and I'll check back a little later.
Norm.

ok Norm I'll give you a call with the info. I'll go get the VIN while we are at breakfast an call ya when we get back, OM.  ;D

OK Here's the scoop!!
Gotta an engineering problem. It's all about Ray!
I realize DERB's dilemma with logistics and the bigger problem of re-assembling Ray BUT This seems like the only way to get Ray manageable for moving.
My thoughts are to pull out the iron, the two back doors (60lbs a piece), remove the chassis that have their own power supplies. might be 4 of 'em. That might lighten the box by another 150 lbs. Of course, there would be extensive documentation, color coding wire harness connections and even placement for the iron on the floor of the cabinet. Lottsa digital pics.

The next idea is, while the cabinet is becoming manageable, lay Ray on his side and mount wheels in the well. I'm assuming that high quality heavy duty rubber wheels could be mounted under there and may only lift the height of Ray by 3 inches. Does any one know how deep the area is under a RA 250 or the RA1000?? I could PM Roger, KC8OPP, and ask if he has mobilized his RA250. Anyone reading this know the depth?

This way Ray would be mobile and hopefully only raised in height about 3 inches. I remember a 20V2 that I bought from Howard W3HM, and it had nice wheels mounted in this well area and only lifted it a couple of inches, just enough to get it mobile for moving or maintenance.

Any of these thoughts would pending approval of DERB, as this is not my transmitter. He is the owner.Tim wants to transport as an operating box BUT this is hindering this project from moving cuz it's so DAM heavy!!!!

BUT the other problem is hooking all the goodies back up on Tim's side. If push comes to shove I would have to go there myself and hook it up for him. cuz we're not going any where fast presently on this.


Maybe we have to take a vote to pay the price and ship assembled or make it easier for movers and Tim and disassemble.........butputting back together is astopper.


FRED

Fred, count me in for a donation if that will get Ray to Derb's place.  Jeff W9GY

Sounds like one of those 'rock and a hard place' scenarios to me, Fred. If it doesn't have wheels on it now, it needs them ASAP in my opinion. The was the first thing I did to the 300G after hauling it from Colorado to VT. We moved that one by laying it on its side and rolling it on pipes, then tying it into place on the pipes for the trip. This made removal from a dinky U-Haul trailer much easier. But Barry had done all of the major disassembly beforehand. He removed not only the iron but also the side panels which made it easier to move and prevented the sides from getting damaged since they were removed and wrapped. IIRC, the RA-250 is in the same ballpark os the 300G, bumping 1400 lbs.

I also moved 'Big Ray' back in 2005, the RA-1000 from Elizabeth City NC back to VT. From first hand experience I know that the Raytheon gear is incredibly overbuilt, beyond even the quality of Collins. This means that simply removing the iron and tipping it on its side to add wheels isn't a realistic option since the thick double-walled cabinet will still keep the weight close to 1000 lbs even after removing the iron.

My suggestion would be to get a few folks over there ahead of time to get some wheels on the beast. That will not only make it easier on Tim once he has it home, it will make moving a lot easier as well. Depending on the overall height, it would be easiest to move it assembled with a lift-gate truck by simply rolling it onto the gate (those gates are good for 2000 - 2500 lbs or more), lifting it to the back, and rolling it on then off at Derbville.

When I moved everything south from VT including the Big Fridge, this was the approach we used and it worked slick, except for one issue with the 300G being about an inch too tall to fit in one of the trucks. Moved it later with a different truck, no problems. Penske has a mid-sized cabover lift gate that can be rented locally (meaning 2 way) very reasonably. This is what HUZ and I used to move the 21E back in March, and from NC to Syracuse and back was under $400 not counting fuel. Think it was around 1400-1600 miles. So 500 R/T would be cheap and FAR easier. Moving blankets are $15/doz, one doz should easily cover it up for safe hauling. I just drape several over the top to cover the entire top half/two thirds and hold them in place with packing tape around them. Quick, easy, and effective. You just have to peel the tape off the blankets before returning them.

So that's my 2 cents, based on a half dozen or more big iron moves in the last few years. Moving intact is the preferred method provided you can keep it stood up and you're good with rope and knots. I just used cheap clothesline and cut it afterward if the knots protested too much. Screw some 2x4s to the floor around the base, protect it with blankets, and yer off to the races. Provided you get casters on it first.

And Derb, rest assured: you'll get it there eventually. Stuff happens, you figure it out and work through it. Persistence is what counts. If you knew what Steve and I went through moving the 21E, you wouldn't leave the house.  ;)

Thanks Jeff for the offer, maybe PM Tim for some input about your post.
Todd, the wheels are the only way for sure, but tipping Ray on his side will either require 5 strong men minimum, as that was the way I got it home from Jay's. The iron was out and it was still a BITCH to deal with.
I agree "a rock and a hard place"


http://www.reevesstorefixtures.com/used_handtrucks.htm
Sample of a 1200 lb capacity hand truck (last one)


I think a simpler way would be to get the riggers to load on my end into a stake body truck with lift gate. On Tim's side a manly warehouse hand truck and a few hardy souls and it would be in his garage.
I don't like the U-haul trailer approach. They get unstable
EDIT::: Renting a handtruck for heavy stuff is not easy to find. The riggers Tim was going to hire will not rent their heavy duty hand truck out for that type of job. They do not want to be held liable if there is any accident or failure dealing with the weight of Ray.

Looks like the ole fashioned way might be the best.

Fred

Jeff, thanks for the offer, thats incredibly generous of you.

I think myself and Fred are going to work out another moving date next month before he goes overseas. I am going to take Todd's suggestions to heart, as the real issue is that Ray is not on wheels and cant be lifted back on Jay's dolly. I think Ray has to be made mobile before anything else can happen. I think the wheels need to have brakes integral to them and be screwed and bolted down to Ray's under side.

I can get excellent double race ball bearing casters that will carry 400 pounds each, a set of 4 for less than 60 bucks. the riggers could tip the thing up  so we could install new wheels on Ray himself and tip him back down once he is clear of the garage door. Then Ray becomes considerably eisier to handle from there on out. My door is 6' 7" high.

I think I am going to angle for the second try on the June 9-10-11-12 timeframe or the weekend afterward. I am going to look for a moving truck that has a liftgate and that we can transport ray in vertically on his new wheels. I think the trailer idea is not going to fly on my end.

Lemme brainstorm a while. I think I'll make a new thread on this as well.




 

My thoughts were that if a bunch of us would kick in a small amount, that would take some of the financial pressure off.  I can't be the guy on the collecting end, cause I'm gonna be away on vacation.  However if someone would step up to the plate that is closer to the operation, I'll be the first to make a donation.

Stay well, Derb, my XYL is a 4 year cancer survivor and we are accutely aware of the ups and downs.  73 Jeff

Why not just send it to Derb directly? No need for a middleman.

I got a chance to visit with the DERB on the cellofonium yesterday. I wish I could have been more help, but I gave him some info that may save him some $$$ if he can use it.
I couldn't help but post these here,,,,I'm the guy on the left trying out the new mic. Maybe the BJB and Sarah's radio cousin are related?

YUP Buddly
I'll pass an offering plate over to Tim.
Do you have a PayPal account..............Tim????

And good idea on the wheels installed while the riggers have Ray tilted. We'll have to have quick thinking and design to install. As they say in a service industry, "time is money".
Is anyone familiar with the "floor plan" of the RA series TX. The underside??
Someone try to follow what I'm describing. I'm not good at explaining mechanical construction. TNX..............
If we could PRE-fabricate a metal frame with the wheels installed and slide it under Ray, and fashion it in a way that the frame would fit within the well area on Ray's bottom. That way it would only raise the height of Ray a couple of inches from the floor and enable Ray to move about.
The wheels would have to be good strong rubber wheels, for smooth moving.
Does anyone cubeesh ??(Italian for understand)

Fred

Forget wheels. Impossible.

You are not going to find wheels that will not collapse under the weight. IF one collapses while ur attempting a move, you've got a very hurt person(s) and a broken transmitter.

Also for that load capacity they would have to be steel and probably too high. won't roll too good unless the surface is smooth...

PIPES.

Pipes are lower, stable, and will not crush.
Pipes make turns easy.
Free or cheap.

you go slow, you move 6-12" a time, then move the back pipe  to the front.

When you are done, you sub out the pipes for blocks... as suggested before you want to have along some nice sized wedges (like door stops) out of a solid wood to make it easy to keep the thing from rolling without having to push/pull/hold... good for putting behind it on a slight upslope or in front on a slight downslope...

I think I said, I could do it solo with pipes, wedges and a few long bars...

I'd bet I could even do the tip over solo with a truck's liftgate...  blocks, bars, etc...that and enough moving blankets... no fun, but could be done.

A bunch of big ratchet straps, maybe a come-a-long and ur good to go...

I'd not put the thing over on it's side or back flush on the ground/surface ever - hard to get under the edge to lift it back up...

REMEMBER any truck you get needs tie down points INSIDE the box, if it is an enclosed box. A flatbed is better because the tie down is easy.

                  pipes...

                              _-_-bear

Yeh Tim, let us know if u have a paypal acct.  If so, ur email addr so we can grease ur palm a little.

The pipe technique explained:

1. Lift a corner of the base. This is to get ur bar under to place a block.
1a. push on upper top of unit enough to slide a 1/4" wood or steel bar under, push on wide side, you want to get at the short side.
1b. this give you room for your pry bar.
1c. you need a 2-3" or better pry bar.
1d. A straight bar permits the addition of a pipe, if you need it.

2. Place pry bar under center of short side - lift and insert blocks (they're short now) under left and right corners.
3. Repeat using block(s) under the bar, and taller blocks on the left and right corners.
3a. You want to get the side up high enough to insert the first pipe!


       |__________________________________|
                                         o                 []  <----initial blocking and first pipe in (chassis tilt not shown in Ascii)

4. Insert first pipe.

5. Two choices:
A. insert pipe near lifted end, and then proceed to lift the opposite end - lift in small increments!
B. insert pipe near center point, and then LOWER the blocked up side, raising the opposite side - place TWO pipes first - one centerish and the other near the lifted side... then pop in the far end point pipe.

Which you pick depends on the "feel" of the unit, and its stability. Lift slowly and in small amounts at a time.

You want to end up with three (or 4) pipes under the unit:

    PUSH! --->   |__________________________________|
                          o                     o                      o   ----> you go this way....



                  PUSH! --->   |__________________________________|   ----> you go this way.... then put next pipe down
                          o                     o                      o                           o


:D



               _-_-bear

     

Really, In my early long distance driving career we used safe dollies
for such moves I pulled a Double drop frame air ride trailer back then
worked great for big heavy stuff :) roll right up the 3500 pound test
walkboard. Any good locksmiths in town there Derb they have the
Dolly(s) you could use to get this done.

Pipe is OK if ya have enough laying around and then whatya do with it
when the move is over, stuck with all this pipe.

Do whatcha gotta do brother. :)

73

Jack.

Not true at all. I've got nearly 1400 lbs sitting on casters on the garage concrete floor. They've been installed since 2003 without issue. The trick is getting casters rated for the weight and using proper hardware to install them. Then it's done.

So what you're saying is that Derb needs to leave the transmitter in the middle of his room once it's there so he can get into the back for maintenance and repair work. Because if you move it with pipes and 'install' it onto blocks or whatever, that's where it stays. Derb isn't going to move 1400 lbs of dead weight once the cabinet digs into the floor. This isn't something you can dance across the floor like a relay rack. Those Raytheons are not only big, they're dense.

Wheels are anything but impossible. In fact, for those familiar with heavy gear, they're pretty much mandatory. I moved my first BC transmitter with pipes, it works but it takes a whole crew for even the most minor move (lay it down or lift it onto pipes, move it, stand it up/lift it off pipes).

Pipes have their place and work well in them. For Derb's future use and accessibility, this isn't one of them. In today's world of mobility with lift-gate trucks and room to move things around, pipes are in fact more restrictive than helpful, more of a last resort.

Of course, I could be missing something here. Have you moved many big rigs, Randall? Not T-368 or BC-610 size (I even used wheels in those), half ton or more? It took a few conversations with W2ILA to convince me that I needed to add wheels while the transmitter was on its side, but life has been much easier since doing so. Can't imagine having to yank the iron and half-dismantle a transmitter every time I want to move it.

Derb/Fred - how tall is the transmitter as it sits right now? Getting it into a box truck and through doorways will be the biggest issue. I've yet to find an open truck with a lift gate that you can rent.

Wheels no good? Not exactly. I guarantee my Snap-On toolbox loaded weighs every bit as much as that tx. and it moves/sits on wheels. Is it dangerous? Most definately; and so is every method previously discussed. The lift gates on most moving trucks DO NOT raise up level and I know this as a fact. I was a mechanic for 18 years with mechanic friends and I have made dozens of tool box moves. Very heavy stuff. After all the headaches, my last few moves consisted of hiring a roll back. Get it to the truck and the driver can strap it, winch it on, and tie it down. If you are going to use casters, get in touch with Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, or Matco and get some real wheels with brakes on them to put underneath. They'll last forever.

Whatever method you choose, be SAFE! It only takes one mistake with something that heavy to have a life altering incident.

Be Safe &73, Phil

Take a look at the Grainger online catalog for caster ideas.  They have numerous units in the 500 - 1,200 pound per caster range and some taller ones rated for 3,000 per caster.  There are certainly plenty available that will easily handle the transmitter. 

I've got Mr. Parker Gates BC-1G on 8 casters from Harbor Freight moving dollies.  W/O them no way to tinker with innards in the back.

my paypal account is timothyhwest@comcast.net  

I was proud of myself that I was able to afford to buy Ray on my own with wifey's help and me selling some of the homebrew stuff I couldnt use.  buying Ray was kinda my way of saying this is my investment in AM even though homebrewing wasn't doable anymore. It was the right decision.

I have to confess I never really thought about how high the additional cost of relocation might be.  :( If I hadnt had all that crap happen to me all at once, I still could have done it. The killer was the mirror getting busted ( which is now fixed ) which just ruined the trip.

Rays got to be wheeled. pipes are fine for moving but here by myself I have to be able to move him out from the wall and get to the back doors, and the back doors have to be on it because of critters that might get in there when I'm not looking.

Get the right set of wheels under Ray, double race ball bearings with zerk grease fittings, and moving him will never be a problem again. they can still get him tilted back to get out from Fred's,  wheels or no wheels. But he's got to be wheeled on Freds end with the help of the riggers.

I can supply the wheels and the riggers can fix Ray up so they can be installed before it goes on the truck to my place.

the fly in the ointment is if I have to be out of the area getting my tumor treated. I just got a call from a Cyberknife center in Roanoke VA.  that has treated a woman that was 400 lbs, and if they will treat me, I'll be down there and out of action for a week or more.  

Sorry, Bear, that we keep skipping over the pipes, but they would work FB if there wasn't so much weight involvedand Tim's situation.
Tim, remember the huge steel wheels that are attached to Jay's Dolley? I sent a pic of the dolly. Overbuilt, and would raise Ray too high. We gotta install the wheels under Ray in the well area I keep talking about. I don't know how deep it is. THat would determine how high Ray would stand after the install.
Another way to explain "the well" area. There must be a space of possibly 6-7 inches under the box. I KNOW that the bottom where the iron is bolted to is NOT at floor level. There must be a space of a certain depth to be able to mount these steel wheels from Jay's dolley. Do you have the pics Tim?

Phred

Derb, YGM

Hope others can spare a few bucks into ur paypal acct.

GL with Ray  73 Jeff

tnx Jeff  8)

(http://)heres the pix -  some analysis required.

I dont like that iron in the upper right, it looks like there's no space to have anything on that corner sticking up from the bottom.

The other option is to build a sled of sorts and mount ball transfer units on the sled like this:

(http://www.sbe124.org/old_xmtr_rescue/Just_Unloaded.jpg)

they used a sheet of 3/4" plywood and mounted 10 250# ball transfers under it.  I have 30 75# ball transfers
in the garage.  

(http://www.sbe124.org/old_xmtr_rescue/In_Its_New_Home.jpg)

as you can see the transmitter is not raised up much off the floor at all using the sled/ball transfer idea.

I have sat here and watched this thread go on and on and on and on and on. I really can not believe it has taken so many people so much time to get nothing done!!! It's a damn transmitter,take the iron and tubes out, lay it on it's side, roll it on pipe, put it on the truck on it's side (it will be more stable), do the reverse on the other side of the trip and  put the dolly under it.

Jay and I moved that transmitter twice in the same day doing just what I stated above. It took less than 1 hour both sides of the trip and it did not require a thread on this forum to make it happen.(It did require a vacuum at Jays). We had four people at Mike ZE;s house and five people at Jays. There are no marks on the cabinet from rolling it on it's side with gas pipe.

I can't wait for the " I getting ready to fire Ray thread."

Unfortunately, there are some that feel that the forum "can be", "should be" a stage for their personal blogging. This is not  blogging site.

Just my two frustrated cents

G

All in the Family.. ;D

73

Jack.

Ya, Mr. T. D. BIGELOW... you can find appropriate casters, but they are expensive and usually tall...and Derb's in a hurry!

I'm trying to help The Black James Bond get this thing OUT of the place it is now and at least to his QTH. The pipe method is cheap, fast, reliable and safe. 'Nuff said.

I am saying not a thing about what Derb needs to do with the unit once at his QTH.

If it was my rig, I'd get it there, have it up on blocks, and THEN get something made to go under it with the appropriate casters, IF that is what one wants. Probably a heavy angle iron affair... but YMMV. I'd not attempt to put casters under the existing bottom... various reasons.

Me? I'd never ever put a big rig against a wall where I could not get at the back side for servicing. You can do as you wish.

I think I said that I moved my 1500lb+ milling machine solo... is that heavy enough?

Not quite sure what is causing the somewhat contentious tone??

                     _-_-bear

well, I take it as a sign that I'm probably spending too much time in front of a computer rappin about radio and not enough time actually doing radio. Guilty as charged I think.

I can fix this.

Actually Derb if you are guilty of anything  you are guilty of over thinking a simple task.

The only task I see right now is getting Ray from A to B. Whether it has casters, iron in it or out, upside down or sideways, doesn't really matter right now. Just do what you need to do to get it to your station. Then once it is there you will be able to have some friends over to help you with the small stuff.


G

Sorry about that, no tone intended - contentious or otherwise (it's text, after all). Just frustration in what looks to me like over-complicating the task. I'm thinking around the next curve, to the transmitter landing at Derb's place and his having to deal with it. Photos he's posted of his shop and radio room didn't look like he had a lot of room to have a big transmitter sitting in the middle of the floor. Cost of casters should be irrelevant since it's a one time expense (I paid $30 for 5 good used ones, they add just over an inch to overall height). Again, the idea would be to make it easier for Derb on his end. I'm sure if Derb was his old self, we'd not even be having this discussion.
 Precisely.

If you move it on its side, you have to move it on pipes which are more unstable, or you have to remove the pipes and put them back under when you unload. 2 more steps. So since the transmitter has no casters now and needs to be tipped over anyhow, it seems far simpler to me to do it all on one end. Tip it over, add the casters, stand it back up, put the iron back in, drop it at Derb's place intact and ready to plug in. 2 people go get it, load it, drive it back, unload it.

No need for trying to organize a crew at both ends, which makes Derb's life a lot easier too. Simple.  :)

pipes are extremely stable, not sure why you would say otherwise...

Take a look at the casters on a typical 1.5Ton floor jack, the steel ones, they are the lightest that I would consider using...
I should post a jpeg of the ones on the cast frame that sits under the mere 700lbs of T-368...

What I am worried about is casters that have insufficient rating - the bearings, the axle pin, the round rolly-polly part - and especially the part that holds it all up (the frame?) - will collapse with a catastrophic result, without any warning.

The problem is that during a move, the forces and load can suddenly look like all of the weight is on a single caster... then whoops!

I like the multiple roller thingies that were mentioned, that might fly, dunno, never used them... kinda depends a bit on what the surface is that is going to have to be rolled over. Asphalt for example can be rather unpleasant...

pipes are both stable and spread the load over an uneven surface...

                   



                        _-_-bear

PLS stay tuned for some pics of Ray and some insight about wheels.
I made a mistake and allowed the computer to download ALL of my wife's 500 pics and the three I wanted to process for our discussion is in that bunch. Be back in about an hour......................8:30PM
Thanks
Phred

True, but re-read what I wrote with respect to using pipes. I was talking about moving the transmitter on pipes in the truck, over the road. Very unstable, since the pipes are attached to nothing and only held in place by weight, which can and will shift in transit due to bumps, acceleration/deceleration, and so on. The load can not only move forward and back, it can slide side to side or move enough for the pipes to fall our or bunch up. Therefore you have to remove the load from the pipes, and get it back onto the pipes on the other end. 2 more unnecessary steps requiring more people.

My argument isn't that pipes don't work or won't work, simply that the caster route would be easier and serve Derb better. Which I thought was the original point. Getting the transmitter to Derb's place quickly and efficiently, with the least amount of screwing around. Doesn't have to be expensive to be efficient.

Nothing more from here.

              And so it goes, the ongoing saga of the lost Uncle Ray...  
    
                            Will he ever find his way home ?

            Stay tuned for the next chapter of this never ending saga...

                                       PS:    Hi G !

My last post. Sorry, I realize and Roger KC8OPP also commented on this lengthy discussion.
I'm dispesning of posting pics for the thought of wheels. What I thought would be a space of sorts under the Ray was unclear thinking. The "floor" of the TX is almost flat to the floor. And I think I pick up on what "bear" is saying why he wouldn't mount wheels. I don't think the metal would handle that weight.
Roger mentioned a massive tear down to lighten the box, the iron, the chassis, and even removing the outer shell, when he moved his RA250 to his QTH. Pretty intensive teardown
Sooooooooo, it's either take the iron and lay Ray on his side as I brought it to my QTH or pay the price for riggers to manhandle the box on AND OFF at both ends.
There were some pics posted of an RA  ??? moving on a piece of plywood on some sort of rollers in this thread, Tim, let's copy that or do the removal of the iron and plain old manpower to get it to your operating position.

Sorry Gary for the chatter. Tim took a huge step to buy a B'cast box and he got the best sounding one available, but one of the heaviest known to mankind. His confidence level to re-assemble the TX is wavering with the medical hassles ahead.
Tim, if you go for removing the iron and anything else I'll go to your QTH, after it's in place and 220 is wired nearby and and we'll put it together and turn it on
KC4MOP signing........

Fred,

I vote for the teardown. I have new radiation treatments starting in Roanoke VA on May 20th.

When can me and the missus come up with a toolbox? Come up Friday, work Saturday go back down sunday.

We'll tear that thing down as far as needed to get the case here and I will build it back up on this end.

No riggers. I'll save a lot of money telling them to screw off.

no more posts here, we can use the phone and mail.

      WOW, it's been almost 24 hours...  I guess this thread is actually dead...


                                                 R. I. P.

Just my .02 worth........................... I have been following this as well.

Short, sweet and simple--------Remove the Iron, tip it onto it's side and roll it on pipes. When you get it home, before tipping it up, while it's still on it's side, install the bottom casters if you want them. Tip it back up vertical. Now sitting on casterz reinstall the iron and roll it into place.....................DONE! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Itz not like you're moving a house. (although it's almost as big)

Not till the Job is complete  8)

I don't think the lot of you even know what Safe Jacks are cuz if ya
did you wouldn't be plotting the use of Caveman Construction Techniques..

But that's unimportant cut the pipe in 4 foot sections yer gona need at
least ten pcs. to be safe,,yer gona need 4 guys one placer one catcher
and two directors. have Fun on yer run.... :)

73

Jack.

I know I said I wuld not post any more,,,,,,,,,BUT called a couple of good locksmiths and they will be visitng to give an assessment later.
You see guys.....the trouble is man power.....the amateur club in New Castle is mostly physically un-fit old farts like me and New Castle Pa is soooo far away from the rest of Hamdom. DERB's end is not so bad but he is dealing with medical hassles and is hoping that Ray will one day arrive in his QTH.
Right now it's in the middle of my garage and I cannot use the garage for anything.

Even with the iron out and the other chassis it takes 5 guys maybe 4 hefty guys, according to Roger KC8OPP. That's why 60 yr old things like this are still around.

When I picked it up from Jay there were five healthy guys that lifted Ray up and carried out to the rental. Iron outta box. This end was four old farts like me and my cousin who lifts weights, but was leary about hurting himself. So, I don't want to call him for this move.

We'll get it one day.......peace love and understanding.........Phred

Just for claity sake - and to answer Todd - you do not keep the transmitter on pipes once it is moved anywhere.
In the truck, or at the QTH. Pipes are for moving. And you only absolutely need 4 pipes. Two or three under the rig, one ahead... take the pipes OUT after it is in the truck.

More pipes can be easier...

Superhet suggested the "45 degree" tie down method too...

Usually BC xmitrs have the wires already labeled (well maybe not all of them...) but you want to just label the wires and then label the places that wires go - or make a CLeAR diagram... remove the wires, replace the hardware where it goes.

I'd buy those wiremarker pre numbered labels if you don't already have them, because you don't have to pull them all off after you put the thing back together, whereas if you use masking tape and a marker, you might have to pull them all... electrical supply houses sell those things... get some numerical some alphabetical.

An hour or two doing the pulling out of iron.

For clarity make a diagram showing which way the iron mounted into the chassis or mark the chassis UNDER where the iron
goes with a permanent marker - no one is going to see it ever again once the iron goes back in.

I dunno what the load out looks like, but if the thing can be made to roll out standing up, then I could use the lift gate to make it tip. You use some bars, some blocks, and slowly lift one side to make it tip against the lift gate... depending on the geometry, you either roll the truck ahead some or else just lower the gate... if you do it right it will just tip over nicely... a little steadying, or some basic rigging will keep it stable... (ropes, a snatch block or two??). Those moving blankets keep things from going  BANG hard and from scratching... carpeting is good for some of this too...

then more physics and balancing and one person can swing the thing around 90 degrees onto the lift gate.

a little more rigging and the like will keep it from tipping while it gets lifted up in the air...

This is the idea.

NOTHING is done fast[/1]!!

slow increments... after a little bit - Viola!

there it is.

When some one asks you how you did it, you just motion to show how and say "I just grabbed it an picked it up"!

Don't forget to say too "it was easy..."!  (yeah, right...)

Ok... I've said enough.
PM or email if anyone actually involved in the project wants to ask any questions of moi?


                 _-_-bear