The AM Forum

Ice damage to antennas necessitates quick and dirty 'on tower' repairs to limp through winter until better repairs can be made in the spring.

Problem: #14 stranded copper antenna wire is tarnished. Steel wool, sandpaper or even a dip in TarnX only remove outer tarnish leaving inner strand surfaces tarnished and unable to accept solder. Ordinary electrical and plumbing flux doesn't get the job done. Seem to recall a yellow liquid flux from many years ago that might work on this sort of problem...but probably no longer readily available.

Ideas?  Environmentally friendly materials are not a requirement.  ;)         

stainless steel solder flux if you must solder......try kearney clamps instead...

Electrical split bolts, aka Burndy's:  http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/burndy-split-bolt-connector-run-conductor-range-alcu-p-22295.html?ref=42

Smallest size is great for #14 antenna wire.

Pete

One leg of the solid copper ladder line on my cheap G5RV broke at the feed point.  Fortunately, I was able to scrape at the stranded copper-weld antenna wire with the sharp edge of a pair of diagonal cutters and managed to make a connection.

Agreed!
Split bolts are the way to go. Strong as heck.
I haven't soldered my wire antennas for years.

I think Home Depot and Lowe's carry them as well as any electric supply house.

Jay, vinegar works great. (leaves a nice smell too)
We wanted to clean one of our copper ground planes without having the safety police get on us for chemicals. One of the techs thought of it and gave it a try. It really works well.
Yes Home Depot has a good selection of those split bolts. I would also coat everything with no-ox.
I also avoid stranded wire. Someone once told me the twisting strands cause noise as they rub. Not sure if it is true but it sounded good. I like #10 or #8 solid myself.
BTW good double shielded mil coax has an insulator between shields for the same reason I was told.

I dip the ends in muriatic acid for a couple seconds. Comes out clean and pinkish/coppery in color.Flush after with water and then solder. I keep a gallon of the stuff in the basement for cleaning copper and iron stains from hard water as wel as brick work. Ten bucks a gallon at the hardware store and FAAAARR better than CLR. Just watch out as it is VERY strong. It WILL eat clothes if left very long.  :o

Marconi would approve of vinegar.

CLR works great in our SS dishwasher. It burns if you get it on yourself.

   "  dip the ends in muriatic acid for a couple seconds. "

FYI's... muriatic acid is a common name for hydrocloric acid, HCl.  Gud stuff to have around, plenty of uses.

klc

One might also consider using PC board etchant - aka ferric chloride - although it is slower than the acid.

After the acid, after the water wash, apply something mildly basic to neutralize. Or a mild solution of baking soda will do. Rinse... that ought to yield a ph neutral metal surface...

           _-_-bear

AKA "bug nut".

Yipes! They want 17 Buck$ for ONE??? :o :o

Holy solder suckers batman!!

                   _-_-bear

kearneys........a bronze  "split bolt" with a bronze nut...available at all ace and true value, home depot, lowes....electrical supply houses..etc....about a buck fifty...for the big ones... the smaller ones go for 6 bits... takes two wrenches to install... they don't come off!

I think the one in that ad is a large size.  That is a crazy price; my local
Graybar has them in bins in the front of the store.

Pete

This information provided here is very useful.    Trying to solder outside in the cold and wind is almost impossible, even with a gas powered iron.   The split bolt is what I am going to use next time.

Yep - the split bolt is the way to go. I have been using them for at least 25 years. Even after years and years of being out in the wx, they come right off and can be used over and over. Worth their weight in gold when repairing an antenna leg that has come down in wintery conditions. 2 wrenches and about 5 minutes work (to sand and prep the ends) and you are ready to pull it back up.