The AM Forum

Before I tackle this I wonder if there are any words of wisdom.  I have cabinet and panel off my recent Viking II acquisiton so as to best clean the chassis of cigarette tarr accumulation.

What precautions should be observed in cleaning the copper plated cabinet and panel before reassembly?

73 Gary W5GW

I recommend "Krud Kutter" available at Lowes and TruValue.  It makes cigarrette smoke dissolve and run off in seconds, but is otherwise rather mild.  However do NOT use it on Bakelite.

For general chassis cleanning I dilute the Krud Kutter by 75% or so and use a chip brush and tooth brush to do the scrubbing followed immediately by generous flushing with water.

I'm really more interested in cleaning the copper plating.

73 Gary

Do an internet search for copper polish.  Revere Ware cookware has copper bottoms and they recommend something.  I believe Tarn-X will also clean it but be certain to get it off completely.  I would imagine Brasso would clean it since you are removing the top layer is copper.

Two of the best cleaners are Simichrome and Flitz. 

Both are long standing products with good reputations.  You can find them in hardware stores, hobby shops and automotive stores.

Brasso is more abrasive than either of the above and in the last several years have reformulated.  I have seen complaints about it since, but haven't bought any.

My concern with the plating is that it is fairly thin and that it may wear off if treated roughly.

Vinegar and salt sure makes old copper pennies shine like new.

Then try regular toothpaste.  Not real abrasive and no chemical worries.  I always wonder what is in the new stuff that can corrode things.

 A paste of water and "Cream of Tartar" (Tataric Acid) is an industry standard for copper plate cleaning.

This is what I use and copper comes instantly clean. I buy it at welding supply companies.

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Fluxes/Stay-Clean-Liquid-Flux.aspx (http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Fluxes/Stay-Clean-Liquid-Flux.aspx)

I would strongly suggest the use of this for your old antenna wire. It makes it very easy to solder. I also took the ten meter section from  a B&W 851 tank assy and submerged it in the flux. It went to work like you wouldn't believe, even those clumps of green copper sulfate came right off. It was fun watching it work. It reminded me of your blood cells going after a bacteria. It just sat the sizzling away as the clumps dissipated.

So if anyone tries this product, let me know how you made out.

And you can buy it on eBay http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=Stay-Clean%C2%AE+Liquid+Flux (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=Stay-Clean%C2%AE+Liquid+Flux)

It's probably less expensive at a welding shop.

 Works  very well, also found in hobby shops, craft stores and some Ace Hardware stores. Originally sold years ago under the "Stay Brite" name as found on the silver solder. This is a great flux for use with silver bearing soft solders as well.

Vinegar only do not use salt.
We use vingar at work to clean copper ground planes to avoid the MSDS police. It works great.

Too late to break out the vinegar right now. how fast does it work?