The AM Forum

I’m rebuilding a T368C RF deck and need a couple of pictures of the antenna connection on the RF deck.  I have some extra square ceramic posts but not sure if the connections are just the posts to the assembly on the case or if there is a piece of springy metal like the high voltage connections on the rear of the RF deck.  If someone could take a picture of both the antenna connection and the B+ connections on the RF deck, be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

Steve, kd3ht

You need the book.  There are complete pictures in the book.  To answer your question, Yes, There are contacts.  I can pull my deck out and take some photos for you but I have to wait until another person is here to help me lift the deck out.

Please go to this link and download the manuals.. If it does not help you, let me know.

http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/military/t368/



C

Thanks for the link.  unfortunately the copy of the scanned photographs is very poor and don't help!!  I have many versions of the manuals in PDF but they all share the same poor scanned picture characteristics!! 
Seems that accessibility is a normal issue hihi.  Everyone has their rigs stacked and pressed together.  I certainly don;t wish to have you harm yourself, there certainly are enough rigs around!   Thanks for the offer either way.

Steve, kd3ht

Tell me what manual and photos you need, I will pull my repro manuals out the closet and snap high quality photos for you. 

C

Thanks...
Figure 39 RF deck of basic in TM 11-809-35
Figure 40 RF deck of B model in same
Figure 41 RF deck of C model in same

I think this would do it!  If the metal finger looks the same as the fingers that contact the HV connections on the modulator and HV deck, I should be able to fabricate.

Appreciate your help and time..

Steve

http://www.w1ujr.net/photos.htm

I think UJR has what you need.. Let me know if not, I will take the photos for you.  I am on my T368C (BW) calling CQ on 75!

C

My deck is unknown version (to me, no tag, and I haven't gotten that deep into it) BUT it is out, and sitting on its side under the bench to the left of the main op position. So, IF you post a picture of the area on the deck that you need, I will slide mine out and post a picture of what mine has in the same spot! :D

              _-_-bear

I want to bring up something as a side note.  If you look at the pictures in the link UJR provided you see one mistake.  The Parasitic choke for the 4-400 is backwards.  Mine was like this also. If you look in the manual for the transmitter, This choke is supposed to be at the plate of the tube.  It may actualy not matter as mine worked before I corrected this.  I have no idea why some transmitters have this choke at the tank coil.

C

it probably doesn't matter electrically because for one thing, the silver plated strap is so wide.

My guess is they were reversed to get the suppressor away from the anode heat.

Thanks everyone.  These pics will help greatly.  Also received some pics from a post on the mil surplaus mailing list.  I'll include them here so someone else could get help in the future!  Bear, the differences are subtle.  Although the later decks have an extra choke beneath L4.  I'm in process of making the changes described in Tim's mods and others to remove B+ off the caps and coils.

Steve, kd3ht

LOL...  Anode heat.   

Well.. I have seen some setup backwards. Clearly, You want the choke by the tube as per the pictures in the manual.  My T3 used to oscilate. I made lots of posts about it and we could never fix it.  Finally, I noticed that backwards choke and fixed it. No more oscilations. I am sure its was done for some reason. My guess, Is that one some frequency or band, the rig tuned up better or ran more stable.  But on 75 and 160, The rig wants that choke the correct way.  Also.. The tuning chart in the book is now a reality.

Cya

C

Hi Clark,  tnx for the correction.  Much appreciated.   but I'm perplexed because you firstly posted:

"It may actualy not matter as mine worked before I corrected this.  I have no idea why some transmitters have this choke at the tank coil."

but then you wrote:  "My T3 used to oscilate. I made lots of posts about it and we could never fix it.  Finally, I noticed that backwards choke and fixed it. No more oscilations. I am sure its was done for some reason. My guess, Is that one some frequency or band, the rig tuned up better or ran more stable."

So you seemed to already have a solution/answer.  I apologize for making assumptions based on your earlier message.   I don't own a T3 and could not even see clearly the construction of the suppressor.  It is probably pretty robust.  I'm especially interested in how the length of such a wide silver strap between the suppressor and anode could make a difference on the extreme low bands.  The answer may be in how the suppressor is constructed.  If you or someone else could provide that information and the parasitic frequency that would be great.  Another learning opportunity  ;D

Rob

Heresy perhaps, but maybe a "Measures" type suppressor (nichrome) might be good??

                    _-_-bear