gonset T/R relay

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N3DRB The Derb:
Well, we had to open up the amp and work on it without the cover to find out what was going on. The added-on relay is firing but the main T/R is not pulling in. Just sits there. If we dont have everything plugged in just the right way, keying the amp results in blowing the 20 A GFI breaker as I mentioned before.

We can manually get contact by pushing or pulling on the contacts no problem. Plate current rises to 75 ma as it should on keydown, but since the grids are getting no juice it just sits there.

I think the first move is to go to 3 wire line cords for everything in the shack and see if we cant rid of of this breaker problem. I cant afford to have someone mess around in the breaker box, and I'm not going to.

anyway, thats what's wrong. The main T/R relay is just sitting there and not being pulled in by the other relay.

The Slab Bacon:
Soundz like you got something wired wrong??

N3DRB The Derb:
I didn't mess with any of that. Up until now, I thought both relays were kicking. This is the first time I've had the cover off while it was on.

It *sounded* like it was keying , but I was hearing the added relay which is working. I didn't know the main relay wasn't firing because I had the cover on whenever he power was on and I couldn't see it not move. I just assumed it was because I got a nice thunk when I keyed it. When I got brave enough to work on it without the cover on and the HV on, that's when we saw the thing no go for the first time.

I'm going to measure the voltage to the coil and make sure it is getting juice. I checked the components around the coil/keying area and all the resistors are good to go. The diode is good. the 2 caps are brand new. No bad actors yet. I should get 117 volts or so of filtered DC across that relay coil when I key it.

I have to go up to the Social Security office now, and I'll report in afterward if I get something new to report.

W2VW:
Derb,

That Goonset originally used 110 volts AC applied by external sources to key it. That AC is rectified and applied to the relay in question.

IIRC the added relay is using one set of contacts to get the 110 to the rectifier board.

If you are in there making things get done your way it would be a good idea to bulldoze the AC primary wiring and switch. It could be replaced with a double pole relay. The existing AC switch was old time JS.

That amplifier made 1300 watts P.E.P. on the bench a few years back. The plate iron is up to it. If the 110 line sags you will lose filament peak emission and everything will look like an aged Mae West.

Have fun and keep hand in pockie.

Dave W2VW.

N3DRB The Derb:
dave,

is on #12 guage line/ 20 A breaker less than 10 ft from the service box. When we can afford it we are going to have dual 20 A lines put in just for the gear. I also have a 220 line ready to go. But I am fixated on this amp. It represents more than what it is to me. A lot of people cared enough about me to gather it all up so I could get back on. The amp is part of that.  It's going to make power again one way or the other, and it will never leave this house as long as I'm around and able to operate.

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